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No service manual but have worked on bikes for many years, just not Harleys. Waiting on lift to get both wheels off ground. Have new tires to go on and I will install new brake pads then and need to check wheel bearings also. Just wondering if there are any tricks are tips for the Harleys. Thanks for the reply.
Good for you for wanting to do all of that on your own bike. We are here to help. That said, spend the money on the Factory Service Manual, it will answer 9 out of 10 of your questions. Then come back here for the other question. And it is not hard, just takes a little time and patience. Good luck.
The spacers and brake bracket can be a hassle to get into place so I cut a ~1" dowel to a length about 1/8" shorter than the inside width of the swingarm to hold everything in place while I position the assembly. Once in place, I push the dowel out with the axle. Keeps everything lined up.
Depending on the axle orientation and exhaust, you may have to remove the mufflers to get the axle out. Many people reverse the axle so you can pull it out without removing any exhaust parts.
Wheel alignment can be tricky because tightening the nut can pull axle around. I put tension on the axle/nut before pulling it all into alignment with the adjusters. I also lean against the tire with my leg while torquing (pushing forward against the adjusters). This minimizes nut rotation and opportunity for creeping. Re-Check alignment post torque.
The spacers and brake bracket can be a hassle to get into place so I cut a ~1" dowel to a length about 1/8" shorter than the inside width of the swingarm to hold everything in place while I position the assembly. Once in place, I push the dowel out with the axle. Keeps everything lined up.
Necessity is the mother of invention. I think I took the dowel to the belt sander to reduce the diameter slightly so it would slide easy. I also chamfered the ends to act as a bit of a pilot if things are slightly misaligned. It works pretty good. I still keep a mallet handy.
Necessity is the mother of invention. I think I took the dowel to the belt sander to reduce the diameter slightly so it would slide easy. I also chamfered the ends to act as a bit of a pilot if things are slightly misaligned. It works pretty good. I still keep a mallet handy.
Combined with my "second jack trick," this should really make it super easy!
I had to pull the exhaust muffler to get my rear axle out. Some say to reverse the axle on re install so that the nut is on the right and you can slide the axle out to the left next time. That is a bad idea.
Literally took me 10 minutes to get the rear wheel off. Real easy to do.
The harder part is going to be getting the rear wheel correctly aligned with the belt tension correct. I got a belt tension tool from Amazon for 10 or 12 bucks and used a compass to align the rear wheel. The tricky part is that alignment can shift a bit when you tighten it and you are trying to get each side within a 32nd of an inch of each other. You will know you have it right when the belt tracks and the belt tension is right. That whole effort took me over an hour.
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