1998 dyna - Vibration problems :/
Winter came, time to customize a bit. I swapped out the 39mm front end for a 49mm front end with progressive lowering springs, everything was disassembled and powdercoated and reinstalled (gas tank and fenders included), 11.5" progressive shocks on the back, thunderheader exhaust, new T style bars, andrews 27 cam, and daymaker headlight. At this point my front fender was still not installed because it wasn't done being painted yet.
So all that work was done, got the bike back, everything was exactly as it was. I still had a slight shake in the bars on decel at 2000 to 2500rpms. It never bothered me much at first, and I put a couple thousand miles on it this way. Eventually I said **** it, I want it to be smoother, so I had a new front motor mount installed from JPCycles, it didn't seem to do anything. I still had a very minor vibration on decel at 2000 rpms. I then went for a ride with my girlfriend on the back, she's 120lbs, and the vibration got noticeably worse with her on the back. When she was off the bike, vibration lessened a bit.
So next, I bought a rear motor mount from JPCycles and had it installed at a local shop. While the mechanic installed the mount, he also installed stock length progressive springs in the front, and my front fender. When I got the bike back, vibration was 2x worse in the front, and now I could feel a little vibration up through the seat to my ***, and slightly on the footpegs as well. I complained, he took it for a test ride, and he noticed it too. he said I have a bad flywheel and it will be $2500 to $3000 to fix.
Here's my issue....the vibration was never THAT bad, it was honestly probably pretty typical for a dyna. I was just hoping to smooth it out a bit. The excessive vibration only started happening after the rear mount, progressive stock length springs in the front, and front fender was installed. And in my opinion it can't be the flywheel, because the vibration happens while in neutral and I'm not even moving. I can literally start the bike, rev it to 2000 rpms sitting on it, and the vibration is noticeably throughout. please helP! I recently just bought a predator front mount because I'm trying to do whatever I can for as cheap as possible, I don't want to have to replace the flywheel on a 1998 bike,e specially when I feel like it's not the problem.
Sorry for the long winded post.
Last edited by nickonometry; Oct 11, 2018 at 06:06 PM.
Them telling you it’s the flywheel just feels wrong to me. Chances are it’s well within spec, but if your curious you could always check the runout....just to be sure, but the evo is pretty bulletproof . I had a 98 myself, new in 98, a Superglide though. Had a slight vibration as well around 2800 rpm. Ran like a rapped ape after I tweaked it.....
also this....in case this shows up....
remove the nose cone cover ...and check out how the ignition pick-up is mounted ...loosen the two hold down screws and RETARD the timing one increment at a time ...and retest ..till the vibration is smoothed out ..
only retard as much as needed , cuz too much ...and you will lose some power too ...
good luck ...
Them telling you its the flywheel just feels wrong to me. Chances are its well within spec, but if your curious you could always check the runout....just to be sure, but the evo is pretty bulletproof . I had a 98 myself, new in 98, a Superglide though. Had a slight vibration as well around 2800 rpm. Ran like a rapped ape after I tweaked it.....
also this....in case this shows up....
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=fvsDIq3WwVA
remove the nose cone cover ...and check out how the ignition pick-up is mounted ...loosen the two hold down screws and RETARD the timing one increment at a time ...and retest ..till the vibration is smoothed out ..
only retard as much as needed , cuz too much ...and you will lose some power too ...
good luck ..
Last edited by nickonometry; Oct 12, 2018 at 07:06 AM.
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What makes me think this is how the bike behaves with your GF on the back. Shifts the weight rearward and unloads the front wheel a bit, and the extra torque needed makes the whole chassis wiggle with every power stroke.
True Tracks are expensive and the rear is a pain in the butt to install, but very effective. They ship fast too.
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