Derby Cover Bolts
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Road Captain
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 611
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From: Long Island, NY
Derby Cover Bolts
So what is it with the derby cover bolts? Changed my Primary fluid over the weekend. I've seen a few threads and heard of a few guys that have had problems with these and stripping the heads. I always use a torque wrench, never bring it to the top of the range and have quality tools but yet if your not really careful these little suckers can strip the heads easily (I am using the supplied bolts from Harley).
So the question is this...I'm looking to replace the bolts with something of a little higher quality but was wondering what everyone's thoughts are on using stainless steel bolts for the job. Typically with stainless steel you'd want to use a bit of anti-seize but of course everything on a Harley needs a little thread locker and so there is my dilemma.... Does anyone recommend stainless steel and what do you use on the threads or should I just go with another set of chrome bolts? And is there a brand recommended?
Thanks, Steve
So the question is this...I'm looking to replace the bolts with something of a little higher quality but was wondering what everyone's thoughts are on using stainless steel bolts for the job. Typically with stainless steel you'd want to use a bit of anti-seize but of course everything on a Harley needs a little thread locker and so there is my dilemma.... Does anyone recommend stainless steel and what do you use on the threads or should I just go with another set of chrome bolts? And is there a brand recommended?
Thanks, Steve
Last edited by Monteman1971; Jan 28, 2019 at 08:05 AM.
I would imagine the reason for the stripped heads is that they're using the more common T25 instead of the T27.
ARP is a popular brand for bolt replacement, someone should chime in with correct size or part number.
ARP is a popular brand for bolt replacement, someone should chime in with correct size or part number.
Last edited by ThePaintPirate; Jan 28, 2019 at 08:14 AM.
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 369
Likes: 31
From: Marlton, NJ
I swapped the oem bolts on my 14' Fat Bob at 1k miles back in 2014. I used stainless allen button head bolts with stainless washers. No thread locker, no antiseize. No issues in about 5 years. Primary gets opened and the fluid changed every year.
I can't stand torx bolts and try to eliminate them as much as possible.
I can't stand torx bolts and try to eliminate them as much as possible.
Club Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 11,175
Likes: 2,483
From: Nor Cal
The Stock Bolts are 1/4-20 x 5/8 and come with a Thread Lock Patch ... They are grade 8 ... but that's probably overkill
Use some SS and a little "Blue" (thread locker) and you should be fine
CG should be coming with some Thread Locker as an Anti-sieze Tech Info
.
Use some SS and a little "Blue" (thread locker) and you should be fine
CG should be coming with some Thread Locker as an Anti-sieze Tech Info
.
Last edited by multihdrdr; Jan 28, 2019 at 10:12 AM.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,852
Likes: 816
From: Niagara Falls, Canada.
I never use a torq. wrench now on these bolts since I stripped a couple first time I had the cover off. You can tell by 'feel' when the bolt is tight enough, always use blue 'loctite' too...b.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2014
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From: NW Ohio
LOL! Search it, if you want, for my rambling galvanic corrosion/galling/loctite/anti-sieze posts.
I use ARP stainless (WAY overkill, but pretty) and blue loctite on this type of thing. Torqued to the FSM recommended value (100 in-lb?) Never had a problem with damaged/loose fasteners or covers.
I use ARP stainless (WAY overkill, but pretty) and blue loctite on this type of thing. Torqued to the FSM recommended value (100 in-lb?) Never had a problem with damaged/loose fasteners or covers.
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Road Captain
Joined: Dec 2016
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From: Long Island, NY
Thanks for the input everyone. I went ahead and ordered a set of allen key, stainless steel bolts.
Steve
Steve
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Tourer
Joined: May 2016
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From: Alberta
The leading cause of grief with these screws is people using a T25 driver instead of the correct tool which is a T27.
Many Torx socket sets do not come with a T27 , when that is the case the T27 must be purchased separately.
Torque wrench ? …. yes …… always.
Loctite ? …..no …… , when torqued correctly it's not required
Many Torx socket sets do not come with a T27 , when that is the case the T27 must be purchased separately.
Torque wrench ? …. yes …… always.
Loctite ? …..no …… , when torqued correctly it's not required
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 611
Likes: 204
From: Long Island, NY
The leading cause of grief with these screws is people using a T25 driver instead of the correct tool which is a T27.
Many Torx socket sets do not come with a T27 , when that is the case the T27 must be purchased separately.
Torque wrench ? . yes always.
Loctite ? ..no , when torqued correctly it's not required
Many Torx socket sets do not come with a T27 , when that is the case the T27 must be purchased separately.
Torque wrench ? . yes always.
Loctite ? ..no , when torqued correctly it's not required
Steve