I'm installing 10” Biltwell Murdock risers on my 2015 FXDL and thought I'd share the experience. More than happy to answer questions if I can.

I've done riser swaps in the past and it's a pretty straightforward process, but the 2014-17 Low Rider have a funky adjustable riser and headlight cover that causes some issues. I'm also installing longer cables so a few extra steps there. Also have ABS, so I'm going to have to change the ABS block and will have to get the brakes bled at the dealer. I know I could have gone with T-Bars, but I like the look of stock bars and risers. This may change in the future, but it's riser and bar combo for now.

One of the stumbling blocks for the FXDL is the headlight. There isn't a lot of information on this, but you will need to obtain a bottom-mounted headlight shell. I've read that the Wide Glide headlight and bracket works, but not confirmed. Since I run a fairing, I decide to order the cheapest bucket I could find off a Chinese seller site. It took about three weeks to arrive and cost about $12 (shipping included). It's actually really good, the shell is pretty much identical to my FXDL bucket. The outer ring was exactly the same, material thickness included. I swapped my headlight into the cheap bucket and used the H-D hardware and it all worked just fine.

I will need a headlight extension bracket for Memphis Shades Cafe fairing. The choice was $45 CDN for the MS bracket or $25 for a lump of aluminum. So I'm going to whittle my own bracket. I'll post that process soon.For now here is the disassembly and install. I'll cover the cables once my extended cable order arrives. I'll also show the ABS swap when that part arrives. I'm also relocating my turn signals, but there is an H-D kit for that. If you plan on doing a relocation, the tank step, and access the wires under the tank are all the same.


This is the riser setup that I'm dealing with. Note: the bolt holding the headlight bucket in place is under a round snap cover on the top of the 'shroud'. Just carefully pry that little round cover off to access the bolt.



This is where I'm at right now (bars are back on just waiting for cables)



First things first: pull your main fuse or battery. <<< DO IT! (my battery was still out from the winter storage).
Next on the FXDL you have to deal with the control wires that run through the headlight cover. Whatever your Dyna you're going to have to unplug your wires from under the tank, inside the backbone.



As far as I understand you don't have to pull your tank, you can just lift it, but I took mine off. Pull the console and unplug everything. Undo the gas quick connect. You have to undo the fuel crossover line a the front, but first you have to drain the tank. There are a couple ways to do this... this a pretty good video if you haven't drained the tank before: I have a funnel and tube setup that runs into a jerrycan, so just pull the left side and let the hose and spigot drain. Easy with minimal spilling. Don't forget to unplug the sender wire as you lift your empty tank off. Set your tank down somewhere soft and then stow safely until your done the job.



Next is the headlight connector. Press both sides of the connector to release the clips and slip it off the back of the bulb. Next the pins have to come out out of the connector. The blades are held in by two barbs on the backside of the blade. There is probably a tool, but I just used my Pico driver to un-clip one side and then the other. It was a total pain to get it, but once you figure it out it's pretty easy. Now pull the grommet and wires out of the shell. This also a fiddley job but doable without too much swearing. Note: you can take the bars off without pulling the headlight wires, but since it's all coming off I just did this step now.



Next pop this plastic part off the bottom of your backbone by pushing in the tabs and pulling down.



Pull the loom down and out from the backbone a bit. Find your control wires by wiggling them and unplug from the loom. Next, work the wires carefully up and out of the backbone through the big rubber grommets on each side. They only go one way, just don't tug too hard on anything. Thread the wires out of the headlight cover. Now you are ready to unbolt your handlebars.

 

De-tighten the four hex bolts on your top clamp and set the bar on the back. Use a towel to keep things scratch-free.



Now go after your riser bolts in the standard fashion.



The FXDL riser assembly can now be lifted away. If you have another Dyna it will just be the risers, or T-Bar type setup. Basically all the same thing, just different applications.



Check for and clean up any stowaways from last summer!



If you're installing polyurethane riser bushings do this step. Some say you need to installed hard bushings, some say you don't. They're cheap and make for a firmer grips so I installed some Arlen Ness bushings. Pick the riser washer off, and push out the two part rubber bushing.



If your new bushings are tight, use H-D special tool, # IAMACCLAMP to install.



I put my bars back on. Not torqued yet just snug. I had to remove my clutch and brake because the lines were too short. The signals are ready for clipping and relocating. My setup works out to be 12.75" of rise. I ordered a cable kit from my local speed shop for 12-14" bars. I'll post that when it arrives. You will have to remove your clutch release cover, and in some cases you will have to pull the exhaust to access the cover. I only had to pull my shields, but I did go and buy a set of extended hex sockets. I'll post all that showing the cable install. My dollar store headlight bucket is zipped tied on, and I'll show the bracket build asap.



Here is a quick mock-up. Really happy I went with 10" risers. When I was doing research and taking measurements, I remember reading a post from an installer that said just go 2" or more than you think, and you will be happy. Good advice. I was originally going to go 8" glad I didn't. Hope this can help someone get going on their own project. It's fairly easy, just a few steps involved. I'll get the rest online soon.

Cheers

 

Thanks for this mate. Want to put some on my bike so will read up tonite.

 

I think you can do an 8" riser without changing the cables. Be sure to check the throttle/idle cables at full left lock. If the throttle cable is too tight your RPMs will climb...and that gets scary fast. I'm still waiting on parts. More to follow. Get er' done.