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fill fork tubes from bottom 2011 superglide 49mm

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Old Jan 20, 2020 | 04:41 PM
  #1  
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Question fill fork tubes from bottom 2011 superglide 49mm

hi all ive just had some new forktube assemblies delivered to uk from states...my question is ..is it possible to put the fork oil in thru the bottom of the fork .you know the plug in bottom under axle that hold cartidge in place...its just that the the thing is already built with new springs etc ..and seems easier than taking bungs out of top if i can just squirt it in [measured amount of course] treyndzis the place i bought from on fleabay but the info they send is nil.. anybody filled em this way i always struggle to replace top bungs ..any body got any tips for making it easier Mike
 
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Old Jan 20, 2020 | 04:59 PM
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You have to measure the amount of oil from the top. Short answer is no
 
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Old Jan 20, 2020 | 06:15 PM
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Jason is correct

reposted from - 04 02 2012.


here's how I service the front forks............

Probably takes about an hour and a half, taking your time.

First off, lift the machine.

Not strapped down yet in the picture below.
I always strap to the lift if removing a lot of weight from one end.
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below.......

this is 006 FXDI with 006 FXDWG fork pipes

cover painted parts that are anywhere close...

remove the caliper.......... 10 mm 12 point..

tie it up out of the way with a piece of wire

remove the fender............ 1/2" box end wrench and 1/4" allen

lay all the fasteners etc in a tray, in the order of removal.
(clean them good before reassembly)

remove axle nut.......... 3/4" socket.

loosen the axle cap........ 30 torx..

grab the tire/wheel at the top, and pull the axle out..
it will slide right out, cause you used anti seize last time it was apart..

loosen pinch bolts.......... 45 torx.
here, you are holding the fork pipe so gravity doesn't eject it onto your toe.
ease the assembly out, carefully, not to scar anything........
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now, I am gonna remove the cap from the fork assembly,
and drain off the old fork oil into a bucket.
This can get ugly if you are not careful.
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I built my Cap Removal device using an old 5 gallon bucket and a Spud Wrench.
(use a new or clean bucket if you want to save the oil)
This device allows you to control the spring loaded cap release/launch
and capture the fluids in one nice clean operation.

Leave it there to drain off for 10-15 minutes or about two cold drinks.
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After the drain off,

remove and clean the spring collar/spacer, washer, and spring.

now, clamp into the handy/cheap fork clamp/vise.

I clamp a board to the bench, then use two tie straps in a X pattern.

First I clamp the lower,
fully compress the fork,
pour in about 26 oz of fluid to start
(no spring, washer, collar yet).
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below, backside of the fork clamp/vise........
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below is my Oil Level DipStick.
for my 006 WG fork pipes, level is 110 mm, measured down from the top of the pipe.

If you prefer the HD Gauge, I believe you can pick it up for around 60 bux....
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stroke the assembly slowly from fully collapsed to fully extended,
look in with a flashlight and you will see the air evacuation.
takes about 8-10 slow strokes...

now hang the DipStick on and measure the level
006 WG fork pipes, level is 110 mm (approx 29 oz)
all other 006 Dyna pipes, level is 112 mm (approx 26 oz)

Absolute precision on that measurement
is not as critical as getting each of the pipe levels equal.
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When the Oil Level is correct,
unclamp the assembly, reclamp on the upper, and fully extend the forks.


(factory spring goes in with the tight winds down)

then the Washer goes in, then the collar/spacer.....
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During the disassembly, I lay out all the parts in order.
Clean them up good for reassembly.
I use a light film of Anti Seize on the axle........
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With the stock length collar/spacer, it is tough to screw on the cap.

Take care and carefully ratchet the fine threaded 1 3/8" cap on while still in the strap clamp/vise.
(final torque value for the caps is 16-43 ft lbs......
I do this after the pipes are in the trees.....
pinch bolts go down to 30-35 ft lbs).

I get up on my little dance floor so I can power the cap down with better control.

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...........do not fork up the threads..........
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reinstall the fork pipe assemblies into the trees, etc. and you are done...........
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Old Jan 21, 2020 | 10:14 AM
  #4  
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well thanks for that Mud ..salient bit for me is rachet em down ..that will do i can rachet top bungs down with a bit of fettlin.....the reason i asked was when i stripped old tubes the spacer tube is about 10inches and sticks out of fork tube top about four inches ...i tried pushing it down but was not possible ..i got my son to have ago and hes a beast but no go.... i dont know if some one had messed with forks previously...my earlier encounters the tube sticks out about 2 inches...ive bought 2inch over stock new tubes ..thanks again ive added a pic of my other products
 
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Old Jan 21, 2020 | 10:15 AM
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I always enjoy seeing people's homemade tools and solutions... I also needed a way to hold/secure fork tubes and legs. I picked up a $10 wood clamp at Harbor Tools, cut a notch in it, lined it with some Gorilla tape, and bolted a piece of metal stock to the back. The metal stock allows it to be properly secured in my vice. I've used it for fork tubes, fork lowers, and all sorts of random bits that don't work directly in the vice.

Instead of the "tie down solution," I used a floor jack under the fork while it was secured in the clamp. That made it really easy to compress and uncompress the fork as needed.



 

Last edited by F86; Jan 21, 2020 at 10:29 AM.
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Old Jan 21, 2020 | 10:38 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by millsym2k
well thanks for that Mud ..salient bit for me is rachet em down ..that will do i can rachet top bungs down with a bit of fettlin.....the reason i asked was when i stripped old tubes the spacer tube is about 10inches and sticks out of fork tube top about four inches ...i tried pushing it down but was not possible ..i got my son to have ago and hes a beast but no go.... i dont know if some one had messed with forks previously...my earlier encounters the tube sticks out about 2 inches...ive bought 2inch over stock new tubes ..thanks again ive added a pic of my other products
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I don't remember tubes sticking out, but it's been 8 years.

Good luck with the project. keep us posted.
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Originally Posted by F86
I always enjoy seeing people's homemade tools and solutions... I also needed a way to hold/secure fork tubes and legs. I picked up a $10 wood clamp at Harbor Tools, cut a notch in it, lined it with some Gorilla tape, and bolted a piece of metal stock to the back. The metal stock allows it to be properly secured in my vice. I've used it for fork tubes, fork lowers, and all sorts of random bits that don't work directly in the vice.

Instead of the "tie down solution," I used a floor jack under the fork while it was secured in the clamp. That made it really easy to compress and uncompress the fork as needed.
.
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Excellent stuff.

you should put this into my Under 50 thread.
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Old Jan 21, 2020 | 06:34 PM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by F86
I always enjoy seeing people's homemade tools and solutions... I also needed a way to hold/secure fork tubes and legs. I picked up a $10 wood clamp at Harbor Tools, cut a notch in it, lined it with some Gorilla tape, and bolted a piece of metal stock to the back. The metal stock allows it to be properly secured in my vice. I've used it for fork tubes, fork lowers, and all sorts of random bits that don't work directly in the vice.

Instead of the "tie down solution," I used a floor jack under the fork while it was secured in the clamp. That made it really easy to compress and uncompress the fork as needed.




Genius. Or like the Guinness drinkers say, "BRILLIANT."
 
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Old Jan 21, 2020 | 09:25 PM
  #8  
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If you mark the position of the tube and cap where the threads start to engage before you put the spring in it makes it easier to get the threads started.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2020 | 06:18 AM
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On my old bike, I filled them from the bottom. Worked fine. Just like filling an outboard lower unit. Now that I think about it, I must have done the same with my 2008 bike too.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2020 | 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by ohioflhs
On my old bike, I filled them from the bottom. Worked fine. Just like filling an outboard lower unit. Now that I think about it, I must have done the same with my 2008 bike too.
hey Ohio flhs thanks for that.. im gonna give it a try ...i reckon as long as ive got a breather tube inserted too i should be able to syringe it in....i know recognised way is to measure air gap ....i collected the oil i took out of old tubes only 9oz in each which does nt seem enough...so im going to measure height using old tube air gap to give me amount of oil to put in and see if i can get it in easy..let you know ....
 
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