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Need some wiring help

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Old Jan 30, 2020 | 02:52 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by mud
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If I was wiring every day I would want that $35 one.

That $17 one looks like it works fine.
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What $35 one? Have a link? I always try to get the best tool, not the cheapest one.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2020 | 02:55 PM
  #12  
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The link that triGeezer put up.

There's three selections at that link.
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Old Jan 30, 2020 | 03:04 PM
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Old Jan 30, 2020 | 03:10 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Jay Guild
I use these so that the strain relief and the conductor contact are crimped at the same time with the proper size.
https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Profess...s%2C158&sr=1-6
Winner. Just ordered those. Thanks for all the help guys.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2020 | 03:10 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Jay Guild
I use these so that the strain relief and the conductor contact are crimped at the same time with the proper size.
https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Profess...s%2C158&sr=1-6
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Those look better than anything at that other link.

Real fair price too 22 bucks.
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Old Jan 31, 2020 | 06:29 AM
  #16  
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1. Use the correct crimper!
2. WHEN YOU CRIMP [pay close attention) to only crimp half way down. So that the tabs JUST fold on top of each other.
3. Then stop. grab some needle noise pliers, and finish crimping with those.

We use these in our shop on the regular. Great connectors if it's done right. Super PIA. Using the JUST proper crimping tool, I find that its too much and when you squeeze down it bends and breaks the end off.

Cheers
 
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Old Feb 20, 2020 | 11:35 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Dan89FLSTC
It`s a crimp connector, obviously it is designed to be crimped. Solder is not the way to install this connector.

You will never see a solder joint on an OEM connector. A proper crimp is the best way to install a terminal to a wire.
Yes Dan... it is a crimp connector, and after I crimp it, I would solder it, because it will be better. You don't have too!

To be fair to the OP, these are cheap, tiny connectors, not as good as OEM (see pic), and you don't need to buy a crimping tool to crimp these, if you don't want to.




 
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Old Feb 20, 2020 | 06:32 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by GearheadMike
[A[fter I crimp it, [u]I would solder it, because it will be better.
Better electrically, but solder wicks up the wire making it rigid. Vibration then causes the wire to break right past the solder. If you're going to do that you should support the wire between the connector and a point after the transition to flexible wire so it doesn't vibrate. That's why, for example. Cannon connectors, which use solder connections, have a clamp for the cable where it exits the housing.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2020 | 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by GearheadMike
Yes Dan... it is a crimp connector, and after I crimp it, I would solder it, because it will be better.
Solder does not improve the mechanical connection, and it does not improve the electrical connection.

You will never see a soldered crimp connector on any oem wiring, motorcycle, car, boat, airplane.

The FAA does not approve of solder on terminals, it is a potential failure point due to vibration (I`m an FAA A&P mech).





 
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Old Feb 21, 2020 | 04:13 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Dan89FLSTC
Solder does not improve the mechanical connection, and it does not improve the electrical connection.

You will never see a soldered crimp connector on any oem wiring, motorcycle, car, boat, airplane.

The FAA does not approve of solder on terminals, it is a potential failure point due to vibration (I`m an FAA A&P mech).
Very interesting...makes sense too. Easier and cleaner also. It's like plumbing, redid my kitchen a few years back and did it all in Pex tubing. That stuff is the ****! No more sweating pipes, running out of elbows, not having the right angle and all that crap. That was all crimped too.
 
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