Bad gas, won't start
Tourer
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 381
Likes: 122
From: Halifax, Nova Scotia
If it sat for a couple years, the battery will have been affected as well. Assuming you didn't replace it or charge it before attempting to start the bike, it's possible that the battery had enough power left to turn the engine over, but not enough to start it. If it were me I would get a new one, or at the very least have the current one load tested and charged with a smart charger. It's really not worth dealing with all the effects of an unhealthy battery if it can be avoided.
It could also be both the battery and the gas, of course.
Here's where I first learned this about batteries:
It could also be both the battery and the gas, of course.
Here's where I first learned this about batteries:
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 17
Likes: 8
From: Florida
Drained the tank, rinsed and refilled with some fresh gas. Confirmed power to the fuel pump but no fuel pump pressure or priming sound so pump motor is fried. Fuel level float damaged confirmed by trouble code and zero level reading so sender is shot. Both of these things were suspected due to the very strong smelling varnish in the gas tank. The pump, regulator, fuel filter, sock and fuel level float are all in and replacement work will start tomorrow. Don't know about the injectors yet.
George
George
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 17
Likes: 8
From: Florida
I got the tank apart today and all of the steel parts inside are rusty and flaking badly. The underside of the tank plate, the steel brackets for the pump and sending unit, etc. I drained the tank and there is a bunch of flakes and crud all around the inside of the tank. It does not look like the tank itself is rusty. How do I get the tank cleaned out without starting flash rust inside the tank itself from water based soaps/vinegar/cleaners? I'm going to start with vacuuming out the flakes and grit after the gas in the tank finishes flashing off.
Thanks,
George
Thanks,
George
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 17
Likes: 8
From: Florida
It is completely disassembled and off of the bike. Should I wipe it out, rinse it out, ... And what should I use to get all of that crap out of the tank?
Thanks,
George
Thanks,
George
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Club Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 14,564
Likes: 9,225
From: the 50s & the 60s
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I'm not familiar with the 2005 tanks. Can you get your hand in there?
If it was me,, I would feel safe rinsing it out with warm soapy water, shaking it around etc.
Then I would blow it out with compressed air real good then lay it out in the sun for a while..
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HDF Community Team
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 3,069
Likes: 1,228
From: New Hampsha
First, get everything that's not steel out of/off of the tank.
If there's any sealer in the tank, remove it first. Acetone usually works.
There're several products you can get from a good auto parts store to remove rust from the tank. Evapo-Rust is one I've used. Muriatic acid works well, too, but it's a lot more dangerous, especially if you don't know what you're doing. Once the rust is out you have to coat the inside of the tank or it'll rust again, in about 30 seconds. Again, there are a number of products available. Caswell Coatings has a kit that works good. I don't get paid by either of these companies.
If there's any sealer in the tank, remove it first. Acetone usually works.
There're several products you can get from a good auto parts store to remove rust from the tank. Evapo-Rust is one I've used. Muriatic acid works well, too, but it's a lot more dangerous, especially if you don't know what you're doing. Once the rust is out you have to coat the inside of the tank or it'll rust again, in about 30 seconds. Again, there are a number of products available. Caswell Coatings has a kit that works good. I don't get paid by either of these companies.
Last edited by John CC; Mar 6, 2020 at 08:56 PM.