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Feedback on converting to chain drive with a S&S 124 motor
Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Can I get some feedback on pros and cons to converting from a belt drive to chain drive if installing a 124 motor into a Dyna? Or is that one of the 1st things that should be done if installing a large displacement motor like that?
Either will work. Belt is by far less maintenance. Chain looks cooler. If you want to get the gear to a specific number, chain is the way to go. I have a 124 pumping out some decent power, and the 530 chain and aluminum sprocket are holding up so far.
Whatever you do don't go with aluminum, this was only a hundred horsepower motor that did this to this cheap *** aluminum rear sprocket.. by the way it was only an 83-in Evo...
After doing some extensive research I was thinking about going with the speed king cycles kit minus the chain. This set up locks up the sprocket so the bolts dont sheet. Anyone have any input on this vendor and the 9 spoke sprocket,? https://www.speed-kingscycle.com/col...19041767424098
Whatever you do don't go with aluminum, this was only a hundred horsepower motor that did this to this cheap *** aluminum rear sprocket.. by the way it was only an 83-in Evo...
I just looked up Speed King Cycles and that 9 spoke is 7075 T6 aluminum. Comes with grade 8 pulley bolts and ARP locking bolts for their locking mechanism. Is 7075 T6 aluminum strong? Or the same as what you have? Any recommendations on a rear sprocket. I was looking at the EK 530DRZ2 drag bike chain rated for 300hp and 11,500 tensile strength as well as the EK 520DR2 drag bike chain rated for 240hp and 10,500 tensile strength. How would those chain run with my set up? Or are they made for drag racing and not your normal use?
That's a chain and It's non O-ring.. Don't get it.. D.I.D. makes a chain that's good to 10,600 tensile, O-ring and made in the USA... And only use steel sprockets.. Forget about Aluminum..
Yeah dont use aluminum on high torque engines. Seen a lot of dudes that had problems with bolts shearing from the wheel and tried some sprocket locking thingy and they dont help. IMO its just a show off piece and adds rotation weight -> power loss. Use quality bolts. Im using arp, STAINLESS, and havent had any problems... yet. I was careful at the beginning afraid i was gonna shear the bolts with my riding style, but now i dont even worry at all. Black arp bolts are not as good protected as the stainless, so the possibility for them to rust and weakened is bigger.
Actually stainless steel is the weakest of all the carbon steel bolts. They're actually equal to a plain old carbon steel bolt grade two and cannot be heat treated for higher strength But are the most resistant to weather.... A grade five or grade eight carbon steel bolt is so much stronger in sheer strength... You really shouldn't use stainless... The proper length shouldered grade five or grade eight bolt will be more than sufficient...
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