Compensator
Road Master
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 815
Likes: 292
From: Uptown Bay Area, Cali
By far that has been the best explanation why the comp is in our motors. If Harley can save 0.02 on their bikes, they do it. It would have been way cheaper for them to put in a solid sprocket, but they didn't. The explanation on why not to change the ratio between the motor and transmission was excellent as well. There is plenty of misinformation out there, and individuals looking to separate money from other individuals. I'd rather be enlightened, than in the dark.
There is plenty of new members that come on with compensator issues.
To me it is like the members who upgrade to a 124". They think they need to spend additional thousands, when a lot of Harley parts do work.
Not to many guys on this forum running/did run 9.4s with 190/200 hp.
Of course, everybody is entitled to their opinion.
Dave
There is plenty of new members that come on with compensator issues.
To me it is like the members who upgrade to a 124". They think they need to spend additional thousands, when a lot of Harley parts do work.
Not to many guys on this forum running/did run 9.4s with 190/200 hp.
Of course, everybody is entitled to their opinion.
Dave
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 19,828
Likes: 7,967
From: poway
By far that has been the best explanation why the comp is in our motors. If Harley can save 0.02 on their bikes, they do it. It would have been way cheaper for them to put in a solid sprocket, but they didn't. The explanation on why not to change the ratio between the motor and transmission was excellent as well. There is plenty of misinformation out there, and individuals looking to separate money from other individuals. I'd rather be enlightened, than in the dark.
There is plenty of new members that come on with compensator issues.
To me it is like the members who upgrade to a 124". They think they need to spend additional thousands, when a lot of Harley parts do work.
Not to many guys on this forum running/did run 9.4s with 190/200 hp.
Of course, everybody is entitled to their opinion.
Dave
There is plenty of new members that come on with compensator issues.
To me it is like the members who upgrade to a 124". They think they need to spend additional thousands, when a lot of Harley parts do work.
Not to many guys on this forum running/did run 9.4s with 190/200 hp.
Of course, everybody is entitled to their opinion.
Dave
Well if it's simply the issue that you shouldn't remove the comp, there are a few better discussions around. Still there are cases when it's OK. Same with changing primary gearing. I wouldn't do either but some might like the mods. Bryces stuff is definitely good if you want to go drag racing tho.
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2021
Posts: 487
Likes: 269
From: Arizona
I just ordered an Evolution 30 tooth compensator eliminator. I have been debating it but I'm going to do it anyways. I have talked to several people who are running them and they love it. I may regret it but I can't stand the tall gears in my twin cam.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 32,934
Likes: 36,027
From: Carlsbad, CA
You dont have to go to a compensator eliminator to lower the gear ratio. Just install the transmission sprocket from a TriGlide...and drop about 10%...
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2021
Posts: 487
Likes: 269
From: Arizona
I will look into that. Thanks.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,004
Likes: 7,539
From: Poolville
A 31/68 on the rear will make a huge difference.... And still use the oem belt...
I just went with a 68 and still like my cruising rpm's in 5th and 6th.. The following pic is where your ratio's will be. You can plug them into the RB Racings drive train and speed calculator to get your rpm's in every gear..
https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/gearspeed.html
Once you now your tire diameter.. here..
https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/tirediamcalc.html
I have found that a 2.87-2.92:1 in 6th@1:1 works best for me...
I just went with a 68 and still like my cruising rpm's in 5th and 6th.. The following pic is where your ratio's will be. You can plug them into the RB Racings drive train and speed calculator to get your rpm's in every gear..
https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/gearspeed.html
Once you now your tire diameter.. here..
https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/tirediamcalc.html
I have found that a 2.87-2.92:1 in 6th@1:1 works best for me...
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2021
Posts: 487
Likes: 269
From: Arizona
I'm going to go with a compensator eliminator. I ordered it I'm going to put it on. I will report back. Bob Wood told me to go for it. Some of the guys over at Fuel Moto are running them too, without issues. $300 and you got yourself a launch rocket. If you ride a bagger on the highway a lot I wouldn't do it. But my bike is a stripped down Softail. City bike, bar hopper.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 2,574
Likes: 1,067
From: Ohio
Although there is guys I'm sure that swear by a solid motor sprocket, he explained very well why one should not go to one. I like how he explained also about changing the primary ratio is also a bad idea.
When building up my motor, I did speak to my builder about all these things, and even with 150 hp, he recommended staying with all the stock components and just adding the AIM VP-SDR to the clutch. Mind you, the Low Rider S came with the SE A&S (3 Studs Style) clutch, instead of the Non Slipper (6 stud style) clutch found on the rest of the Dyna line. You can still get the upgraded SE A&S clutch from Harley for $400 bucks. It's rated to 135 ft lbs and adding the AIM, it's holding 145 lbs with a 124" (with a stock basket) on mine.
While some guys may have grenaded the stock clutch basket, clutch, etc., I have seen where individuals removing the stock parts damaged them upon disassembly by not using the correct tools and methods, and then those parts failing later.
Dave
When building up my motor, I did speak to my builder about all these things, and even with 150 hp, he recommended staying with all the stock components and just adding the AIM VP-SDR to the clutch. Mind you, the Low Rider S came with the SE A&S (3 Studs Style) clutch, instead of the Non Slipper (6 stud style) clutch found on the rest of the Dyna line. You can still get the upgraded SE A&S clutch from Harley for $400 bucks. It's rated to 135 ft lbs and adding the AIM, it's holding 145 lbs with a 124" (with a stock basket) on mine.
While some guys may have grenaded the stock clutch basket, clutch, etc., I have seen where individuals removing the stock parts damaged them upon disassembly by not using the correct tools and methods, and then those parts failing later.
Dave
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