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Old Mar 11, 2021 | 12:50 PM
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Always a lot of talk on here about compensators and solid motorsprockets or the Darkhorse setup. I follow George on youtube and am also a big fan on his parts. A lot of great info here for those that don't know of him.

 
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Old Mar 11, 2021 | 06:17 PM
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I've been saying that for years... I'm glad someone finally came out with that publicly..
 
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Old Mar 12, 2021 | 07:25 PM
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$400 for the ramp? You can buy a whole comp for $200 without springs. How many have broken the stock one? I know some of the bigger motors are breaking them but why not shot peen and magnaflux a new one?
 
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Old Mar 12, 2021 | 07:29 PM
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Although I agree with what the guys saying, I don't agree with a $400 ramp. The SE comp for my TC is just fine...
 
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Old Mar 13, 2021 | 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Max Headflow
$400 for the ramp? You can buy a whole comp for $200 without springs. How many have broken the stock one? I know some of the bigger motors are breaking them but why not shot peen and magnaflux a new one?
That $400 ramp is for the M8, which is weak from the factory and breaks. He clearly stated the TC comps don't break.

For a good piece of steel, machining, hardening, polishing, etc., $400 is not a bad price, especially if it solves a problem.

Originally Posted by 98hotrodfatboy
Although I agree with what the guys saying, I don't agree with a $400 ramp. The SE comp for my TC is just fine...
He stated the SE comp is good. He ran 9.3 and 9.4 in a Bagger with 190-200 hp NA for two years with one.

Dave
 
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Old Mar 13, 2021 | 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by TOE_CUTTER
That $400 ramp is for the M8, which is weak from the factory and breaks. He clearly stated the TC comps don't break.

For a good piece of steel, machining, hardening, polishing, etc., $400 is not a bad price, especially if it solves a problem.



He stated the SE comp is good. He ran 9.3 and 9.4 in a Bagger with 190-200 hp NA for two years with one.

Dave
Thanks for the info. Would have never figured it out. Mine ain't broken yet. I've worn out a couple TC ones tho..
 
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Old Mar 13, 2021 | 04:38 PM
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Although there is guys I'm sure that swear by a solid motor sprocket, he explained very well why one should not go to one. I like how he explained also about changing the primary ratio is also a bad idea.

When building up my motor, I did speak to my builder about all these things, and even with 150 hp, he recommended staying with all the stock components and just adding the AIM VP-SDR to the clutch. Mind you, the Low Rider S came with the SE A&S (3 Studs Style) clutch, instead of the Non Slipper (6 stud style) clutch found on the rest of the Dyna line. You can still get the upgraded SE A&S clutch from Harley for $400 bucks. It's rated to 135 ft lbs and adding the AIM, it's holding 145 lbs with a 124" (with a stock basket) on mine.

While some guys may have grenaded the stock clutch basket, clutch, etc., I have seen where individuals removing the stock parts damaged them upon disassembly by not using the correct tools and methods, and then those parts failing later.

Dave
 
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Old Mar 13, 2021 | 08:44 PM
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I had to swap one on a ‘12 street glide with 20k on it before I totaled it, but I’m at 50k on the one in my ‘15 Roadie. I think a large part of the wear is what fluid your running and how you ride. I bought the ‘12 used with 10k on it, and the ‘15 new. On the ‘15 I’ve only ever run Redline in, and I ride 75 miles a day partially in stop and go traffic. The ‘15 is due for a swap, but with other things to deal with (getting my ‘99 DX road-worthy) it can wait for a bit, especially since I need to tear the front end down anyway.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2021 | 08:51 PM
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This thread is up there for being a sticky.



Dave
 
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Old Mar 13, 2021 | 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by TOE_CUTTER
This thread is up there for being a sticky.


Dave
Why? Don't see anything that useful.
 
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