Polishing Cyl Fin Edges
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Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 26
Likes: 16
From: Lake Stevens, Wa
Polishing Cyl Fin Edges
I have tried many products and methods to get that chrome-like shine on aluminum, with success. But one area I still have trouble with are the shiny cooling fin outer edges. My engine has the matte black Denim finish, which seems to be on the cooling fins, also. The fin edges are knurled, not flat. I have found that the Denim finish stains easily, and is hard to clean. Especially in-between the fins. The fin edges are stained & corroded. I've seen these polished on show bikes, and they glisten like diamonds. I want that.
It must be my method, every product I've tried has made a mess of the Denim finish, without doing much for the shine. I'd prefer not using H-$$$$-D products. Anybody found the secret?
It must be my method, every product I've tried has made a mess of the Denim finish, without doing much for the shine. I'd prefer not using H-$$$$-D products. Anybody found the secret?
Tourer
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 486
Likes: 155
From: British Columbia
Knurled cooling fins.
My guess is that some such thing as brillo pads would do the trick. The soapiness would provide the slide and the soap would easily wash off with water and leave no staining on the black powder coated fin portion. I don't think any or the polishes would entirely rinse off. They'll leave some sort of stain on the black. Worth a try I'D say.
Tourer
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 486
Likes: 155
From: British Columbia
John; That might be true with a rough, flat surface like sheet aluminum. You know, something roughened with sanding. The machined edges of the cooling fins are pretty smooth. They dull with age. In fact Scotch Brite does add scratches in to the surface because you're exposing new aluminum. However the machined edge of the fins will then dull quickly and will then trap more contaminates from the moment of use of Scotch Brite. Any steel wool that gets trapped in a factory finished cooling fin micro scratch might cause corrosion to the steel wool. I doubt very much if it would stain the aluminum to any visual degree. I may be wrong. But a good back up to what you point out about corrosion, could probably be cured with S100 cleaner. It's acid based and fine on cold aluminum and would likely take care of those micro fibers of steel wool you can't see. Just my understanding of things.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2019
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From: Eastern Canada
If I am reading the previous post correctly you are saying Scotch Brite pads contain steel fibres , I beg to differ these are made of a synthetic material . Be careful with S100 it will leave marks on the black finish IF left on too long ,and not properly rinsed .
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Tourer
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 486
Likes: 155
From: British Columbia
bburky. You may not be reading it correctly. No where did I say that Scotch Brite contains steel fibers. And you're right. They are synthetic. I believe green pads are the least aggressive. The red pads very aggressive. I use both in various metal projects I undertake. Whatever the material it is, when rubbed across soft material like aluminum, the aluminum brightens up because you're exposing fresh aluminum. Once you've done that, as opposed to the factory smooth finish on the cooling fins, more micro debris such as road dust, will embed and cling in the ever so fine scratches created with the Scotch Brite scuffing pads. Key word is scuffing. However, if one used a whetted Brillo steel wool pad which saturates with soap, moving it across the cooling fins lightly would likely yield less removal of the factory finish on the fins or leave more shine. If you rub real hard you might embed steel wool fibers in the machined edge of the fins. Just saying if that were to occur, the S100 (used under the cautionary instructions) used on a cool engine, and forcefully rinsed off in a prompt fashion after use with cold water, would probably leave the machined edge of the cooling fins in better condition than the use of Scotch Brite pads.
I don't know what abrasive they use in Scotch Brite pads, but whatever it is, it tougher than the aluminum, Thus surface aluminum is removed leaving a newly exposed aluminum finish. You can visually see the scratching caused by Scotch Brite use. That all I'm saying bburky. Not ctiticizing your method. Just offering an alternative.
I don't know what abrasive they use in Scotch Brite pads, but whatever it is, it tougher than the aluminum, Thus surface aluminum is removed leaving a newly exposed aluminum finish. You can visually see the scratching caused by Scotch Brite use. That all I'm saying bburky. Not ctiticizing your method. Just offering an alternative.
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 26
Likes: 16
From: Lake Stevens, Wa
Update
When I bought my used 2011 FXDWG, it was pressure wash clean, but never detailed. I don't think any aluminum had ever been polished. I've been "chasing the shine" ever since. I can see my face in the trees, now. The fork lowers & cyl fin edges are the worse, especially the front edges of the front cyl were nearly all corroded black. I used moistened red Scotch Bright pads, a little bit of Bartender's Friend, and skin worn off my finger tips. Hosed it off as I went, never let that stuff dry. Cleaned between fins with a bottle brush, dish soap & water in a spray bottle. Wow, what a difference! The fin edges are clean, polished, but not reflective. Still have the knurled edge. The paint in-between is a uniform color, the cylinders are now noticeable. No staining. It was a lot of work, 2 mornings, but will be easier to keep clean, now. My fork lowers looked like bad acne on a teenagers face. Red, followed by blue, Scotch Bright pads, and Bartender's Friend, easily removed the mess and left a smooth, clean finish. I have a front end rebuild planned, and will take these parts to a polishing wheel when it's all apart.
All-in-all, it was easier than wet-sanding. Not sure I want to go for a reflective shine on the fin edges, I'll let you know if I do. Thanks to all for your advice. I hope this helps.
All-in-all, it was easier than wet-sanding. Not sure I want to go for a reflective shine on the fin edges, I'll let you know if I do. Thanks to all for your advice. I hope this helps.