slip on installation
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Southwest Florida
Anybody have issues with their slip-ons and exhaust leaks? I put my new Rush slip-ons with new clamps and torqued to what was said in the service manual, but I can feel air coming out when the bike is running and I put my hand near the clamps. I have some popping too. I saw someone say to go to 65 ft lbs with the Rush ones, but I didn't see anything else besides using sealers and what not. Since I don't know if I want to keep these pipes, I don't want to spray something on that will make them harder to take off...
Possible solutions, 1) Buy new torca clamps. The old ones may be all used up, 2) Get some super-duper exhaust sealant, separate, slather it on, re-fit, 3) Expand out the header pipes (make sure the muffler body will fit over header pipe if you do) and re-fit.
Not sure I'd recommend torquing to 65 ft-libs. It felt to me like they were all done at 50 ft-lbs when I did mine.
Slip ons
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Joined: Mar 2009
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This is a total WAG, but if you decide to change exhaust systems, you may end up pulling the entire system instead of just the mufflers, no? At which point it won't matter all that much whether you can get the muffler bodies and the headers to separate? Well -- They will. But when you have the entire system off the bike it wil be easier.
Possible solutions, 1) Buy new torca clamps. The old ones may be all used up, 2) Get some super-duper exhaust sealant, separate, slather it on, re-fit, 3) Expand out the header pipes (make sure the muffler body will fit over header pipe if you do) and re-fit.
Not sure I'd recommend torquing to 65 ft-libs. It felt to me like they were all done at 50 ft-lbs when I did mine.
Possible solutions, 1) Buy new torca clamps. The old ones may be all used up, 2) Get some super-duper exhaust sealant, separate, slather it on, re-fit, 3) Expand out the header pipes (make sure the muffler body will fit over header pipe if you do) and re-fit.
Not sure I'd recommend torquing to 65 ft-libs. It felt to me like they were all done at 50 ft-lbs when I did mine.
I think I only tightened them to 38 or 40. (going off the top of my head) They were new clamps. I had tried using one of my
older ones but it got bent out of shape so I just went for new ones. That's another reason why I went to 40. I'll try tweaking it a little tighter when I get home. Funny because I feel like i'm better at this without using the torque wrench lol...
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,403
Likes: 7
From: Southwest Florida
Yeah, I know it's just as easy to take them off together, but I might sell them separately and any sealant I use might be a pain to get off.
I think I only tightened them to 38 or 40. (going off the top of my head) They were new clamps. I had tried using one of my
older ones but it got bent out of shape so I just went for new ones. That's another reason why I went to 40. I'll try tweaking it a little tighter when I get home. Funny because I feel like i'm better at this without using the torque wrench lol...
I think I only tightened them to 38 or 40. (going off the top of my head) They were new clamps. I had tried using one of my
older ones but it got bent out of shape so I just went for new ones. That's another reason why I went to 40. I'll try tweaking it a little tighter when I get home. Funny because I feel like i'm better at this without using the torque wrench lol...
I don't think it's just as easy to take them off together. What's the point? Just saying that if you do go to a full system next time around, once you get the whole system off, it shouldn't be that tough to separate the two pieces. With the header pipe still attached to the engine, working on the ground, not being able to twist and turn the header, fear of damage to header/head/exhaust gasket/header stud??
I was, and still am a little, concerned about whether or not I dislodged or loosened or whatever where the header pipe attaches to the head. What with all the banging I had to do with a big hammer to get the OEM junk mufflers off.
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Joined: Mar 2009
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I think I figured out my issue (looks like Grendel mentioned it too) - on of the slots on the slip on is being covered by the wedge part of the clamp, and that is where the leak is coming from. I can either loosen the clamp and try to turn it or just use some sealant. Of course I got dragged out of the house and couldn't play with it some more. If I loosen the clamp and retighten, is that basically my one-time use? I haven't driven it much so hopefully it'll be okay.
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 96
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From: Southeast Florida
I've been sizing up this job for a couple of days now on my 2010 Fat Boy Lo. Those rear bolts holding the mufflers to the muffler bracket are virtually inaccessible. Looks like it will be much easier to pull the system, bracket, headers and mufflers off as a unit.....
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