When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Hey guys. Got a 93 Dyna Wide Glide FXDWG. I recently installed a used Revtech 110 Gen 2 motor with a 6 speed Jims Overdrive transmission. I also have a All Ballz upgraded starter along with upgraded battery cables(these aren't new but newer and were working fine before my bike went down with a different motor). I just bought a brand new battery that has 500 CCA too. A Lightning Start battery. Here is my problem and here are the things I have already done. I also set the timing with a DynaTech 2000i ignition. It is used but worked fine on my last motor. When I go to crank up my bike. It stalls and barely turns over. The positive terminal on the battery heats up to the point that it will smoke if I stay on the starter button. I heard it would be due to loose connections or bad ground. I cleaned the cables and reinstalled them so they are clean and tight. Still I am having the same issue. Does anyone know what else might cause this? The motor will turn over but hesitates to make a rotation then craps out and the + battery terminal starts to smoke. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Last edited by FXD2003Rider; Oct 3, 2022 at 11:44 AM.
Remove the + battery cable from the battery. Open the starter solenoid cover and inspect the 2 contacts and plunger contact. SURPRISE!!!!!! ALUMINUM CONTACTS. Get a solenoid rebuild kit with copper connectors. Found that on my 07 105" Dyna, All ***** 1.4kw starter after 1 month of slow starts. Put an All ***** 1.4kw starter on my Wife's 04 XLH122C. Same slow to no start issue.
Last edited by TexasScooterTrash; Sep 17, 2022 at 07:52 PM.
If the connection at the battery gets hot that means that connection has resistance (is not a good connection). The heat is generated right where the problem is, not somewhere else. This also explains the slow cranking.
Some batteries have the face of the terminal recessed slightly and the battery cable doesn't sit flat. They usually come with spacers to fix the problem. Does that ring a bell? If the cable terminal doesn't sit flat, you can try to locate a brass washer to fit on there in place of the spacer. Best do it to both terminals.
Yes. I checked the connections. Even took a brush to the end connectors on the battery cables. I have a brand-new battery with brass washers installed to keep the end of the wire flat and flush with the terminal.
So I don't truly understand electrical issues but if this was the problem do you still think that would cause high heat to the positive battery terminal? Also could having a bad stator/regulator cause this issue as well?
Smoke and heat are generated at the source of the problem with electrical.
Its always a bad connection. Check the end of the cable where it meets the ring terminal. The strands can break or rot under the sheathing.
Ok. Update: I took apart my starter to inspect the solenoid. I will post pics, there is slight corrosion on the contact points. However I also took my battery cables off, switch them around after cleaning them. Now both the positive and negative battery terminals are getting hot. Also when I hold down on the starter button that is connected to the starter itself( I also use the starter button on the handlebars) the battery gauge I have hooked up zeros out to one red bar when holding the starter button down and just blinks. When I release the starter button the gauge turns back onto showing its normal charge. Once again it is a brand new battery with 500 cca. So it can't be a bad battery. I also have it on the trickle charger and the charger always is blinking green to show a full charge. I will post pics of my starter solenoid apart once I figure out how to upload it on here.
Last edited by FXD2003Rider; Oct 3, 2022 at 11:43 AM.
Ok. Update: I took apart my starter to inspect the solenoid. I will post pics, there is slight corrosion on the contact points. However I also took my battery cables off, switch them around after cleaning them. Now both the positive and negative battery terminals are getting hot. Also when I hold down on the starter button that is connected to the starter itself( I also use the starter button on the handlebars) the battery gauge I have hooked up zeros out to one red bar when holding the starter button down and just blinks. When I release the starter button the gauge turns back onto showing its normal charge. Once again it is a brand new battery with 500 cca. So it can't be a bad battery. I also have it on the trickle charger and the charger always is blinking green to show a full charge. I will post pics of my starter solenoid apart once I figure out how to upload it on here.
`Could be BOTH battery cables are broken down from heat or whatever and causing huge current draw through now both of them. Change the cables and you`ll have new ones as well as new connectors. Sometimes what you can`t see beneath the covering of insulation is a sneaky culprit of a fire waiting to start.
Last edited by FXD2003Rider; Oct 3, 2022 at 11:44 AM.
Can you get an current reading? It almost sounds like you are getting excessive draw.
Can you rotate the motor via the back wheel to get an idea of how much friction the starting system is encountering?
Bad connections/cables cannot cause excess draw, in fact they'll reduce the draw. If both cables are getting hot and the battery is getting drawn down then it's likely the starter is bad (drawing too much current). Regardless, it can't hurt to have the battery tested.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.