What to do with my fxdbi
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Joined: Jun 2017
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From: 707
What to do with my fxdbi
This is a long one so bear with me.
so here is where Im at. I have an 06 street bob I am the third owner. Second owner only had it for 250 miles ( documented by odometer when I bought it against last oil change receipt from the first owner.
When I bought it the guy gave me this big folder of paper work he got from the first owner. Complete history on the bike all the receipts including work orders parts bought online and fluid changes. In that it documents the ipb going out at like 200 miles And again at 400 something. Hd put on the 07 stuff to stop that from happening again.
So here I am at 4300 miles and I can hear that bearing acting up. Its gotten louder as time has gone on. Also its consuming a bit more oil than usual its down about a quart in 2k miles.
so here are my options
1: pull it apart Change the bearing with a better one and while its apart do the cam chain tensioners because I never have ? Now its how deep do I go just change the tensioners or do it all cam cam, cam plate ( with a feuling hp+) and that stuff or just the cams and leave the plate alone.
2: park it and save up to buy the 98 kit from fuel Moto. But that doesnt cover the bottom end crank bearings.
3: find a crate motor
4 sell it and buy a newer one.
I really like the bike I saved it from rotting out in a horse pasture. I have that bond with it because not only do I ride it on my trips and camp easy Rider style I brought it back from the dead.
I just got back from a 1200 mile trip on it and its still as fun to ride as it was on day one.
Any input would be helpful thanks for sticking around
so here is where Im at. I have an 06 street bob I am the third owner. Second owner only had it for 250 miles ( documented by odometer when I bought it against last oil change receipt from the first owner.
When I bought it the guy gave me this big folder of paper work he got from the first owner. Complete history on the bike all the receipts including work orders parts bought online and fluid changes. In that it documents the ipb going out at like 200 miles And again at 400 something. Hd put on the 07 stuff to stop that from happening again.
So here I am at 4300 miles and I can hear that bearing acting up. Its gotten louder as time has gone on. Also its consuming a bit more oil than usual its down about a quart in 2k miles.
so here are my options
1: pull it apart Change the bearing with a better one and while its apart do the cam chain tensioners because I never have ? Now its how deep do I go just change the tensioners or do it all cam cam, cam plate ( with a feuling hp+) and that stuff or just the cams and leave the plate alone.
2: park it and save up to buy the 98 kit from fuel Moto. But that doesnt cover the bottom end crank bearings.
3: find a crate motor
4 sell it and buy a newer one.
I really like the bike I saved it from rotting out in a horse pasture. I have that bond with it because not only do I ride it on my trips and camp easy Rider style I brought it back from the dead.
I just got back from a 1200 mile trip on it and its still as fun to ride as it was on day one.
Any input would be helpful thanks for sticking around
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 1,570
Likes: 599
From: Minneapolis, MN
I think you should do new bearings, plate, pump, hydraulic tensioners and cams. I did that with my 2000 and noticed a world of difference. I think youll get a lot of satisfaction out of that without completely blowing up the wallet haha!
Fix the inner primary bearing now, then decide what to do for the rest.
Then only if you wish to go into the cam chest upgrade the cam, cam plate, lifters, etc. At that mileage I wouldn't worry about the cam chain tensioners just yet (assuming the 4300mi is the total mileage on the bike.) So you can ride for a bit before needing go into the cam chest. And then at that point decide if you want to spend the coin for big bore kit and cams. or just cams. Cams make a surprising difference alone, and improve the rideability to your style given you chose cams that perform how you ride/ use the bike.
Then only if you wish to go into the cam chest upgrade the cam, cam plate, lifters, etc. At that mileage I wouldn't worry about the cam chain tensioners just yet (assuming the 4300mi is the total mileage on the bike.) So you can ride for a bit before needing go into the cam chest. And then at that point decide if you want to spend the coin for big bore kit and cams. or just cams. Cams make a surprising difference alone, and improve the rideability to your style given you chose cams that perform how you ride/ use the bike.
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From: 707
Fix the inner primary bearing now, then decide what to do for the rest.
Then only if you wish to go into the cam chest upgrade the cam, cam plate, lifters, etc. At that mileage I wouldn't worry about the cam chain tensioners just yet (assuming the 4300mi is the total mileage on the bike.) So you can ride for a bit before needing go into the cam chest. And then at that point decide if you want to spend the coin for big bore kit and cams. or just cams. Cams make a surprising difference alone, and improve the rideability to your style given you chose cams that perform how you ride/ use the bike.
Then only if you wish to go into the cam chest upgrade the cam, cam plate, lifters, etc. At that mileage I wouldn't worry about the cam chain tensioners just yet (assuming the 4300mi is the total mileage on the bike.) So you can ride for a bit before needing go into the cam chest. And then at that point decide if you want to spend the coin for big bore kit and cams. or just cams. Cams make a surprising difference alone, and improve the rideability to your style given you chose cams that perform how you ride/ use the bike.
4300 ish is the total mileage of the bike. I looked through all the records it had its oil changed every 2500 miles on the dot by hd and the kid I got it from broke his leg shortly after buying it so he barely rode it at all.
What about lower end bearings. Isnt there some issues with the 06 crank bearings being partially plastic or something like that. Are those just a ticking time bomb. If I do a big bore should I change the crank bearings and rebuild the whole motor ? or is that too much ?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,157
Likes: 11,247
From: San Diego, CA
This is a long one so bear with me.
so here is where I’m at. I have an 06 street bob I am the third owner. Second owner only had it for 250 miles ( documented by odometer when I bought it against last oil change receipt from the first owner.
When I bought it the guy gave me this big folder of paper work he got from the first owner. Complete history on the bike all the receipts including work orders parts bought online and fluid changes. In that it documents the ipb going out at like 200 miles And again at 400 something. Hd put on the 07 stuff to stop that from happening again.
So here I am at 4300 miles and I can hear that bearing acting up. It’s gotten louder as time has gone on. Also it’s consuming a bit more oil than usual it’s down about a quart in 2k miles.
so here are my options
1: pull it apart Change the bearing with a better one and while it’s apart do the cam chain tensioners because I never have ? Now it’s how deep do I go just change the tensioners or do it all cam cam, cam plate ( with a feuling hp+) and that stuff or just the cams and leave the plate alone.
2: park it and save up to buy the 98 kit from fuel Moto. But that doesn’t cover the bottom end crank bearings.
3: find a crate motor
4 sell it and buy a newer one.
I really like the bike I saved it from rotting out in a horse pasture. I have that bond with it because not only do I ride it on my trips and camp easy Rider style I brought it back from the dead.
I just got back from a 1200 mile trip on it and it’s still as fun to ride as it was on day one.
Any input would be helpful thanks for sticking around
so here is where I’m at. I have an 06 street bob I am the third owner. Second owner only had it for 250 miles ( documented by odometer when I bought it against last oil change receipt from the first owner.
When I bought it the guy gave me this big folder of paper work he got from the first owner. Complete history on the bike all the receipts including work orders parts bought online and fluid changes. In that it documents the ipb going out at like 200 miles And again at 400 something. Hd put on the 07 stuff to stop that from happening again.
So here I am at 4300 miles and I can hear that bearing acting up. It’s gotten louder as time has gone on. Also it’s consuming a bit more oil than usual it’s down about a quart in 2k miles.
so here are my options
1: pull it apart Change the bearing with a better one and while it’s apart do the cam chain tensioners because I never have ? Now it’s how deep do I go just change the tensioners or do it all cam cam, cam plate ( with a feuling hp+) and that stuff or just the cams and leave the plate alone.
2: park it and save up to buy the 98 kit from fuel Moto. But that doesn’t cover the bottom end crank bearings.
3: find a crate motor
4 sell it and buy a newer one.
I really like the bike I saved it from rotting out in a horse pasture. I have that bond with it because not only do I ride it on my trips and camp easy Rider style I brought it back from the dead.
I just got back from a 1200 mile trip on it and it’s still as fun to ride as it was on day one.
Any input would be helpful thanks for sticking around
Um.... you say you have an '06 Street Bob.... correct?
Harley went to the new camp plate, hydraulic tensioners, and roller chains in the 2006 Dynas...... then the rest of the models got it in 2007....
Here is the cam chest parts for an '06 Street Bob... as you see, you already have the newer hydraulic tensioners, and roller chains...
There is no need for you to worry about a tensioner at this point... check them at 50K and see what they look like then.
While there have been some hydraulic tensioner failures with the roller chains, they are very few and far between... I suspect in those cases they had extreme run out causing the issues...
If I were you;
I would fix the bearing, or at least check it and makes sure it's bad.
Install (or check records to see if you already have) the better auto primary chain tensioner, #39929-06B, which became OEM in 2010. Maybe you have the newest one, #39929-06C which came out in 2021, and is now the new superseded part number for all the #39929 family of auto tensioners... Your OEM tensioner #39929-06 or #39929-06A were very problematic. They often led to an early bearing failure due to them making the primary chain too tight..
I'd even consider upgrading to the best of the new style compensators #36500034A (again, unless records show you already have it) in the Screamin' Eagle Big Twin Compensator Kit #40100061. Your OEM compensator #40296-06 was the first of the "updated" compensators that was also quite problematic.
But I wouldn't be worrying about the cam tensioners for many, many miles yet.....
Last edited by hattitude; Oct 4, 2022 at 10:01 PM.
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Advanced
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 51
Likes: 3
From: 707
Um.... you say you have an '06 Street Bob.... correct?
Harley went to the new camp plate, hydraulic tensioners, and roller chains in the 2006 Dynas...... then the rest of the models got it in 2007....
Here is the cam chest parts for an '06 Street Bob... as you see, you already have the newer hydraulic tensioners, and roller chains...
There is no need for you to worry about a tensioner at this point... check them at 50K and see what they look like then.
While there have been some hydraulic tensioner failures with the roller chains, they are very few and far between... I suspect in those cases they had extreme run out causing the issues...
If I were you;
I would fix the bearing, or at least check it and makes sure it's bad.
Install (or check records to see if you already have) the better auto primary chain tensioner, #39929-06B, which became OEM in 2010. Maybe you have the newest one, #39929-06C which came out in 2021, and is now the new superseded part number for all the #39929 family of auto tensioners... Your OEM tensioner #39929-06 or #39929-06A were very problematic. They often led to an early bearing failure due to them making the primary chain too tight..
I'd even consider upgrading to the best of the new style compensators #36500034A (again, unless records show you already have it) in the Screamin' Eagle Big Twin Compensator Kit #40100061. Your OEM compensator #40296-06 was the first of the "updated" compensators that was also quite problematic.
But I wouldn't be worrying about the cam tensioners for many, many miles yet.....
Harley went to the new camp plate, hydraulic tensioners, and roller chains in the 2006 Dynas...... then the rest of the models got it in 2007....
Here is the cam chest parts for an '06 Street Bob... as you see, you already have the newer hydraulic tensioners, and roller chains...
There is no need for you to worry about a tensioner at this point... check them at 50K and see what they look like then.
While there have been some hydraulic tensioner failures with the roller chains, they are very few and far between... I suspect in those cases they had extreme run out causing the issues...
If I were you;
I would fix the bearing, or at least check it and makes sure it's bad.
Install (or check records to see if you already have) the better auto primary chain tensioner, #39929-06B, which became OEM in 2010. Maybe you have the newest one, #39929-06C which came out in 2021, and is now the new superseded part number for all the #39929 family of auto tensioners... Your OEM tensioner #39929-06 or #39929-06A were very problematic. They often led to an early bearing failure due to them making the primary chain too tight..
I'd even consider upgrading to the best of the new style compensators #36500034A (again, unless records show you already have it) in the Screamin' Eagle Big Twin Compensator Kit #40100061. Your OEM compensator #40296-06 was the first of the "updated" compensators that was also quite problematic.
But I wouldn't be worrying about the cam tensioners for many, many miles yet.....
thank you for the info. As for the chain tensioner. I have had the bike since 2017 and I dont remember reading about them putting in a newer style tensioner. Just the 07 style housings. So that will for sure be something Ill look into. Is there a write up on the conversion to the newer chain tensioner you can point me too.is there any way to check the ipb with out taking it apart that is more for sure than listing while I pull the clutch and put it in gear?
I was going to check the cam chain tensions because I had heard that even though they had switched to the hydro tensioners in 06 for the dyna the shoes they used were an inferior material that still went bad. I have nothing to back that up snd for all I know that could be and probably is just bs that isnt true.
Last edited by Bluegoose95401; Oct 5, 2022 at 06:07 AM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,157
Likes: 11,247
From: San Diego, CA
thank you for the info. As for the chain tensioner. I have had the bike since 2017 and I don’t remember reading about them putting in a newer style tensioner. Just the 07 style housings. So that will for sure be something I’ll look into.
Is there a write up on the conversion to the newer chain tensioner you can point me too
is there any way to check the ipb with out taking it apart that is more for sure than listing while I pull the clutch and put it in gear?
I was going to check the cam chain tensions because I had heard that even though they had switched to the hydro tensioners in 06 for the dyna the shoes they used were an inferior material that still went bad.
I have nothing to back that up snd for all I know that could be and probably is just bs that isn’t true.
Is there a write up on the conversion to the newer chain tensioner you can point me too
is there any way to check the ipb with out taking it apart that is more for sure than listing while I pull the clutch and put it in gear?
I was going to check the cam chain tensions because I had heard that even though they had switched to the hydro tensioners in 06 for the dyna the shoes they used were an inferior material that still went bad.
I have nothing to back that up snd for all I know that could be and probably is just bs that isn’t true.
Here is a comparison between the old problematic primary tensioner and the much improved "B" tensioner. The "B" tensioner is on top. You can see there are obvious differences (thicker bottom ramp with smaller teeth). It's a simple matter of just swapping them out... I have not seen a new "C" tensioner in person. I have no idea if the "C" suffix was added because of a vendor change, or if there were actually changes made to the part.
I guess the best test for a bad IPB is the listening test, with an educated ear. Since you've heard it before, I suspect you will know it if you hear it again...
I have heard the spring tensioners had inferior OEM pads. That's why many use and report back good results with just replacing the OEM spring tensioner pads with Cyco pads. I never heard about inferior hydraulic tensioner pads, but that doesn't mean it's not a problem. I know many, myself included, have upgraded 88" engines with the '07+ cam plate set-up, to include the HD OEM hydraulic tensioners.. Very few have had problems. But it can't hurt to inspect them while your wrenching on the bike..
Good luck with the repair...
Last edited by hattitude; Oct 6, 2022 at 09:39 AM.
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