95" or 103" cost
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Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 715
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From: Yaphank, Long Island
95" or 103" cost
I was just wondering if anybody out there can tell me the approximate cost for a 95" and a 103" big bore job with the work being done by a proffessional.
Thanks Steve
Thanks Steve
Administrator Emeritus
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 5,704
Likes: 252
From: Walker Basin, CA
RE: 95" or 103" cost
I don't know about your area but Reno HD is running a winter special on a 103 Screamin Eagle conversion for $3,800. That also includes winter storage.
http://www.renohd.com/SpecialDetail....8I57JAMQ1237R0
http://www.renohd.com/SpecialDetail....8I57JAMQ1237R0
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,022
Likes: 3
From: Hudson Valley- NY
RE: 95" or 103" cost
Unfortunately, that's an almost impossible question to give a straight answer to. It very much depends on what you want to do and how far you want to take the new parts. Simple 95" upgrade can be done for a few hundred bucks if you only want to bump the displacement to 1550 cc. Add new heads, rework stock heads, add cams (chain or gear-driven), rejetting carb, valve work, SERT, EFI remap, etc., the cost can go as high as your bank account. My 95" was done for a little over $3,000.00, including headwork, cams, jugs, pistons, valve work and a HD SERT.
If you're going for maximum bang for the buck, speak to the engine builder very closely. He should be able to match components to your style of riding and address your concerns and make sure you'll be happy with what you really want. Example, do you want flat out performance? If so your mileage will likely suffer and you may end up with a build you're not happy with. If you're looking for a good performer, it can be done and still maintain reasonable 40+ mpg. As long as the motor is apart, all things being the same, the only difference in a 95" and 103" build is the cost of the parts. Keep in mind that this may all have an adverse effect on your warranty if the cycle is still under warranty.
Good luck, the choices can be mind boggling.
If you're going for maximum bang for the buck, speak to the engine builder very closely. He should be able to match components to your style of riding and address your concerns and make sure you'll be happy with what you really want. Example, do you want flat out performance? If so your mileage will likely suffer and you may end up with a build you're not happy with. If you're looking for a good performer, it can be done and still maintain reasonable 40+ mpg. As long as the motor is apart, all things being the same, the only difference in a 95" and 103" build is the cost of the parts. Keep in mind that this may all have an adverse effect on your warranty if the cycle is still under warranty.
Good luck, the choices can be mind boggling.
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 715
Likes: 0
From: Yaphank, Long Island
RE: 95" or 103" cost
I doubt my dealer is running a special like the SE one in Nevada and you guys actually get a winter? I was just looking for a ball park of what it's gonna cost me im not looking to go to big due to reliability issues and MPG its a harley that I ride for pleasure cant bring it to work due to the lack of ladder racks but my warr. is up soon so thats why im lookin into it now I have a great shop called biker barn down here on the island so Thats where I would get it done. Thank you very much for the info and anyone else with any please reply.
Steve
Steve
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 906
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From: State College, PA
RE: 95" or 103" cost
The local dealer here will do the 95" upgrade for $539.00 including labor
Here is a cut and paste from their add
Winter Service Specials
Big Bore Special $539 Installed
Includes: cylinders, pistons, gaskets, & labor
883-1200 Conversion $836 Installed
Includes: cylinders, pistons, gaskets, & labor
Willie
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 715
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From: Yaphank, Long Island
RE: 95" or 103" cost
d glide where did you get the tach/speedo bracket from and what did the bar conversion run you? did you do it yourself or have it done.
Thanks Steve
Thanks Steve
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,022
Likes: 3
From: Hudson Valley- NY
RE: 95" or 103" cost
I did the entire bar swap myself, was not too difficult. The bars are Wild 1's Chubby WO 560's and the bracket is made by Accutronix. You can check their website for more information, accutronix.com and then shop for the best price, Custom Chrome, Drag Speciaties, etc. They're available in polished aluminum or chromed, mine is chromed, about $95.00 or so if I remember. They fit standard 3.5" spacing on Dynas so it can be used on either T-bars like mine or on a set of risers, either way. The t-bars were about $160.00 or so delivered to the house, swap is pretty straight forward for the bars alone. A little more time (like winter layup) is needed to run the wiring through the bars, but the results are worth it, no exposed wiring. While it was apart, I replaced the stock black switch caps and housings with the HD chromed ones.
If you need any more information, let me know. I have a few more photos somewhere I can attach.
If you need any more information, let me know. I have a few more photos somewhere I can attach.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 12,946
Likes: 32
From: Colorado Springs, CO
RE: 95" or 103" cost
That's a good price. Keep in mind though.....
a 95 kit doesn't require complete dissassembly of the motor, a 103 does, as it's a stroker crank
You're paying for the labor to take the top end apart, so if you're ever going to want better heads NOW is the time to do so......
The 103 will have more torque, and at a lower RPM simply due to the increase in stroke.
The engine is apart. You can bore the cases and clearance the cam area while it's apart and go bigger than a 103 for a couple of hundred more. Just something to think about. Harley is now offering a 113 kit, and S&S has a 124. GMRperformance and others are doing a 131 now
Simply something to think about since the engine is going to be entirely dissassembled. you can also substitue the 95 kit for a 97 kit through ****** racing, or a 98 kit through GMR performance, and save the $$$ as the top end is the only part torn apart.
I'm going to wait and save money and go with a 131 in about 12-18 months, myself.......[&:]
joe
a 95 kit doesn't require complete dissassembly of the motor, a 103 does, as it's a stroker crank
You're paying for the labor to take the top end apart, so if you're ever going to want better heads NOW is the time to do so......
The 103 will have more torque, and at a lower RPM simply due to the increase in stroke.
The engine is apart. You can bore the cases and clearance the cam area while it's apart and go bigger than a 103 for a couple of hundred more. Just something to think about. Harley is now offering a 113 kit, and S&S has a 124. GMRperformance and others are doing a 131 now
Simply something to think about since the engine is going to be entirely dissassembled. you can also substitue the 95 kit for a 97 kit through ****** racing, or a 98 kit through GMR performance, and save the $$$ as the top end is the only part torn apart.
I'm going to wait and save money and go with a 131 in about 12-18 months, myself.......[&:]
joe
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Road Master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,126
Likes: 1
From: Rockies
RE: 95" or 103" cost
ORIGINAL: DGlide04
Unfortunately, that's an almost impossible question to give a straight answer to. It very much depends on what you want to do and how far you want to take the new parts. Simple 95" upgrade can be done for a few hundred bucks if you only want to bump the displacement to 1550 cc. Add new heads, rework stock heads, add cams (chain or gear-driven), rejetting carb, valve work, SERT, EFI remap, etc., the cost can go as high as your bank account. My 95" was done for a little over $3,000.00, including headwork, cams, jugs, pistons, valve work and a HD SERT.
...
Good luck, the choices can be mind boggling.
Unfortunately, that's an almost impossible question to give a straight answer to. It very much depends on what you want to do and how far you want to take the new parts. Simple 95" upgrade can be done for a few hundred bucks if you only want to bump the displacement to 1550 cc. Add new heads, rework stock heads, add cams (chain or gear-driven), rejetting carb, valve work, SERT, EFI remap, etc., the cost can go as high as your bank account. My 95" was done for a little over $3,000.00, including headwork, cams, jugs, pistons, valve work and a HD SERT.
...
Good luck, the choices can be mind boggling.
