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Maybe just semantics, but they are not parallel. They are in the same plane: pointed in the same direction, and the rear wheel directly behind the front one. When this happens, you want the frame level (forks in the vertical plane) and the steering centered. The two ends of the rear axle should be equidistant from the swing arm pivots (or the index marks). The wheel should be centered in the swing arm.
On a conventional frame the steering stem or headstock and the swing arm pivot are always orthogonal. The top link adjustment is for that purpose.
Don't make it more complex than it really is.
This is what is supposed to be accomplished by the LASER test:
Originally Posted by Tom H
So your issue IS that the top of the tire is pointing to one side or the other.
NOT...that the front to back of the wheel is pointing left or right.
I do not understand as well as to how the top link would correct front to back alignment (Think Toe In)??? I do understand how "with perfect engine mounts and installed perfectly" the top link would change the top to bottom of the tire angle (Think Camber). I also could see that badly worn engine mounts could allow the bottom of the engine to be to one side or other of center allowing a top to bottom angle of the wheel.
Johns example to me says to move the axle on one side forward or back to get the front to back of the wheel as well as belt or chain alignment.
But.....Please correct me if I'm wrong.....If the front "OR" rear engine mount was severely worn/damaged and is allowing the engine/trans unit to sit left or right of center (as in at an angle in the frame pointing left or right), that I think would also cause the rear wheel , front to back, to be pointed left or right (same direction as engine is pointing). Normally would be fixed with adjusting the axle provided the engine is sitting straight forward and back in the frame.
As a thought on what I just wrote. If the front of the engine and the front of the rear wheel were both pointing to the left of center of the frame (provided the axle is properly measured and even from the swing arm pivot or alignment marks on the swing arm), I think that the belt/chain alignment could be perfect. If I understand right, the engine and trans and the swing arm are essentially one unit. As in you could pull the assembly out and mount it on the back of a go cart and have a 3 wheel go cart.
Again, just some thoughts,
Tom
John, I just cannot wrap my head around how the center link moves the whole assy to the center, as the picture you supplied shows, (and what the laser method does, as well). In Tom's bolded portion of the quote, he is thinking as I do, that centering the axle first, by doing the swingarm axle measurement would align the front and back wheels, and the link adjustment would set the 'camber', or tilt of the wheel, so to speak.. I don't understand why (in the video) first doing 90*/0* rear set, then adjusting the link again, as he does in the video to "set the laser alignment.. Why bother setting up the 'tilt' of the rear, just to keep moving it after you get it 90*/0* ?
If the front "OR" rear engine mount was severely worn/damaged and is allowing the engine/trans unit (front or rear of the engine/trans unit) to sit left or right of center (as in at an angle in the frame pointing left or right), that I think would also cause the rear wheel , front to back, to be pointed left or right
Yes, but, there are no forces to push it side to side, especially opposite directions front and back. Just the weight of the engine pushing down and the drive and braking forces pushing it fore and aft.
you could pull the assembly out and mount it on the back of a go cart and have a 3 wheel go cart.
John, I just cannot wrap my head around how the center link moves the whole assy to the center, as the picture you supplied shows,
It doesn't! Those errors are corrected by shifting the axle in the swing arm in the direction of the arrows. The top link is only to make the front wheel and forks and the rear wheel to be in the vertical plane when the frame is level and the steering is centered.
I don't understand why (in the video) first doing 90*/0* rear set, then adjusting the link again, as he does in the video to "set the laser alignment..
I didn't watch the video, but, don't believe everything you see on the internet!
You have to get the front and rear wheels pointed in the right direction first before you fuss with the top link. The angle from vertical of the front wheel changes as you turn the handlebars away from centered. So, level the frame. Align the rear axle and center the steering as in the diagrams in post 19. (The front disk should now be vertical.) Finally, adjust the top link so the rear disk is also vertical.
If either adjustment was a large change then I'd repeat everything as there is some interaction between the axle adjustment and the top link adjustment. (Maybe that's what the video is getting at.) But it's not because the top link is twisting the motor to the left or right.
Yes, but, there are no forces to push it side to side, especially opposite directions front and back. Just the weight of the engine pushing down and the drive and braking forces pushing it fore and aft.
With all due respect. Maybe I'm looking at this wrong........
Let's say that the motor mounts have turned to jello. You could lift the rear wheel off the ground, grab the bottom of the engine and pull/push it swinging it side to side in the frame. The top is held ridged due to the top link.
So now you go into a left hand curve. I would think that the "bottom" of the rear wheel will be pushed to the right. A RH curve would push the bottom of the wheel to the left. This is looked at from the back of the bike.
Now, if the jello mounts are being forced as well. A RH would twist the "bottom" of the engine to the left and a LH would twist the "bottom" to the right. This is all provided the top link will not move.
Now think of it this way. If the mounts are jello and the rear wheel is top and bottom tilted to one side as well as the engine while going in a straight line causing the bike to go down a straight line a bit sideways, then you make a curve to the other direction "of the wheel tilt" and come back up straight. I would think that the wheel could be tilted the opposite direction until you make an opposite curve.
This kinda makes me wonder about the "Dyna Wobble" issue.
We're talking about doing the alignment. Can't do that until you correct the jello mounts, just as you wouldn't align a car if the ball joints were shot.
OP Already replaced the front one and is going to replace the rear next, then do the alignment.
We're talking about doing the alignment. Can't do that until you correct the jello mounts, just as you wouldn't align a car if the ball joints were shot.
OP Already replaced the front one and is going to replace the rear next, then do the alignment.
Yes, everything should be here by Friday. So this weekend, provided the shipping Gods are good to me, I’ll hav3 everything I need. Right now I’m looking for some lasers that go on the rotors to check how the wheels are parallel. Can’t find anything good but cheap.
I’ve seen that video, but apparently the method of alignment t is different on the evo bikes. Someone mentioned a bracket to straighten up the swing arm to frame that is exclusive to evo dynas.
What video????
Man, my head is about to explode. I am finding it hard to follow along with all the different comments. Don't get drawn into the rabbit hole. It is not that complicated. I fixed my Dyna wobble and If I can figure it out.
There is more then one way to skin a CAT. Lasers? We don't need no STINKING lasers. There are no lasers in motorcycling. Way to complicated. Good luck with whatever you do to fix whatever you are trying to fix.
Man, my head is about to explode. I am finding it hard to follow along with all the different comments. Don't get drawn into the rabbit hole. It is not that complicated. I fixed my Dyna wobble and If I can figure it out.
There is more then one way to skin a CAT. Lasers? We don't need no STINKING lasers. There are no lasers in motorcycling. Way to complicated. Good luck with whatever you do to fix whatever you are trying to fix.
sorry, meant the link to the thread. And I understand the suggestion in your thread about this https://www.carlinidesign.com/product/dyna-torque-arm/
which is not applicable to later year dynas
But thank you for the kind words of getting it fixed
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