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What model and year is your bike? My 2000 WideGlide had a front-end clunk when I bought it. I found the article attached below and read through it and followed the advised steps. It worked for my bike.
Last but not least. Check the front rotor at the rivets.
This is what I'd suggest looking at if everything else is fine. I've pretty much narrowed mine down to the brakes. Went through my bike yesterday to figure this out. Forks were fine off the bike. Triple clamp had no movement or indentations with the wheel off the ground other then going side to side. Tank bolts are tight. With the wheel against a chock and pushing from the bars with no brake applied there is no sound. With the brake applied and pushing from the bars in the same manner there is a clunk. One thing about brakes is everything moves and jiggles a bit when they are not in use such as the rotor and the pads.. My rotors move a bit more then most since they have been replaced with Braketech rotors which do jiggle around a lot. I'm think if the rotor buttons were super tight then the clunk would be less or none at all. That is not how these rotors are designed but the stock ones are a lot tighter. To the point I don't even know if I would call them floating rotors.
Only other source I can think of in my case is the fender. I'll confirm that in a bit when I go for a quick ride without it.
Man that's a lot of dive.. I didn't think one could get 5"of travel..
OP, the fall away method for the neck bearing ( in my opinion) are a little loose for my liking an can occasionally cause a klunk or knock.. I like to set bearing preload to where it will take on finger with gentle pressure to move the bars when on the jack stand.. Been doing it this way for ever without issues..
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