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John, I see a couple of issues that may or may not be issues. You need to check the sprocket alignment off that finished machined inner cover. You look like you have some face wear on sprocket that may be from chain links.
Be sure to double-check with a dry fit without compensator spring housing (cover) on it. Measure you wall thickness of the compensator (cover). Then the distance between the nut face and end of crank spline.
Then make sure your nut screws on far enough. You may need some new parts or a custom shim. It's difficult to get all that red locktite out of that internal thread on the nut.
One year, they had a recall on thread length that Max is referring to that requires end of nut to be shortened or a front spacer.
Mine had gotten out of line from face wear but it was caused by the rotor spinning when spline stripped out around 10K. Warranty fixed it twice just tightened the front nut. I fixed it at 30K.
I was able to 180 that rear spacer to get a clean area for the seal to run in. Mine had a groove in it.
My compensator at 30 k had a lot of fretting and torn-out spots compared to yours. Especially the shaft extension. That doesn't hurt anything.
Uneven chain wear makes you use up all the tolerance to set tensioner. That loose and tighten of the chain and Harleys uneven firing make a lot of primary racket at idle.
If it goes away run, it's normal. Mine hat a clicking it slow 180 hard turns from links hitting edge of rear sprocket. There is only 1/32 (0.032) clearance between chain links and sprocket.
Notice face wear that let sprocket move in. Dry fit with spring housing off to make sure nut goes on far enough
flipped spacer 180 for new seal area.
According to the Harley-Davidson Manual, that spacer that's in the pic above is wrong. I'll get a pic to show when I'm home. On Vacation now. According to HD manual, the spacer goes after the bolt.
According to the Harley-Davidson Manual, that spacer that's in the pic above is wrong. I'll get a pic to show when I'm home. On Vacation now. According to HD manual, the spacer goes after the bolt.
The number 1 spacer in your illustration is
part number 35851-84
SPACER, SPROCKET SHAFT - 0.020 THICK. That spacer is in between the outside of the rotor and the bottom of the shaft extension.
The number 1 spacer in your illustration is
part number 35851-84
SPACER, SPROCKET SHAFT - 0.020 THICK. That spacer is in between the outside of the rotor and the bottom of the shaft extension.
That is not the spacer in TT122.
Manual does not show that Sprocket spacer. Only shows that spacer for a 06 and newer Dyna. I have a 03
One thing to note is that spacer that go under the comp are used for chain alignment. In that case, that use is particular to a particular model, even year.. The best method, to determine whether it is needed or not. is to check primary chain alignment...
One thing to note is that spacer that go under the comp are used for chain alignment. In that case, that use is particular to a particular model, even year.. The best method, to determine whether it is needed or not. is to check primary chain alignment...
Correct, year model specific used for alignment. And may vary in thickness as required for proper alignment.
I dont see that spacer on Ronnies Microfiche diagrams for OPs 2003 Dyna model or any pre-2006 Dyna models.
What does show on a 2004 Dyna models in Ronnies Microfiche diagrams is
Spacer 29960-91A which is .250 thick to go under compensator nut thicker then 0.090 stated in TT122.
Last edited by BlackBastard; Jun 25, 2024 at 10:12 AM.
One thing to note is that spacer that go under the comp are used for chain alignment. In that case, that use is particular to a particular model, even year.. The best method, to determine whether it is needed or not. is to check primary chain alignment...
According to the Harley-Davidson Manual, that spacer that's in the pic above is wrong. I'll get a pic to show when I'm home. On Vacation now. According to HD manual, the spacer goes after the bolt.
Sometime before 2004, Harley had 9 different spacers for alignment. When my 04 was built, Harley to speed up assembly had invested in better quality control in manufacturing parts and only the standard 0.250 (as I recall whats in mine was available and what was installed.
If you Harley came with a shim behind nut, use it. However just check alignment. If you Harley was a year old and compensator nut came loose, it may be a stack up of tolerance needed a shim behind nut.
If it made it this long your good more then likely.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Jun 25, 2024 at 11:45 AM.
Sometime before 2004, Harley had 9 different spacers for alignment. When my 04 was built, Harley to speed up assembly had invested in better quality control in manufacturing parts and only the standard 0.250 (as I recall whats in mine was available and what was installed.
If you Harley came with a shim behind nut, use it. However just check alignment. If you Harley was a year old and compensator nut came loose, it may be a stack up of tolerance needed a shim behind nut.
If it made it this long your good more then likely.
I Just got a new Compensator in yesterday & went to check everything out on the new & compared to the old. A couple differences - the new Sliding Cam is smaller in circumference & the Cover is not as thick. I'm including pics. When I assembled the new Compensator together & old I measured the thickness of them. The Original one is not as thin as the new one. About 0.05 to be exact. I haven't checked alignment yet but will this afternoon and post it. With the difference's in measurements, should I send the new one back or just put it on & check alignment and shim if needed ?
Last edited by EppsHD; Jul 6, 2024 at 11:56 AM.
Reason: Correction
Since my last post, I got a new Compensator & while I had it all apart, I went ahead & replaced all bearings and seals in the primary & replaced the chain guide since it was worn a bit. 50 miles later & noise is gone.
Did you by chance dry fit it to eyeball alignment of sprockets. Just stacked there like that, that's pretty amazing it ended up with the sprockets closer then .030 or a 1/32".
It that OEM parts?
Glad it sounds good. If it's out of alignment, you will hear a ticking in slow 180 turns.
It's hard to visualize how your old components face wear amounts to but if alignment looked good at assembly, I imagine that may be your .05 that put it back in alignment.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Aug 3, 2024 at 08:20 PM.
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