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2001 Twin Cam Big Bore Info Needed

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Old Oct 30, 2024 | 10:41 AM
  #11  
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[QUOTE=scooper321;21853628]
Originally Posted by eighteight

Rats. And thanks.
Just and a opinion..

It's 23 years old. The best thing is it idles and runs smooth up thru the gears and cruises smoothly down the road.

And if it's stock, more then likely unless abused, and does the above, it's stock.

Biggest issue is there some electrical components on it that are unavailable. Especially it has the immobilizer (optional siren) on it. That's also the signal lights and bankangle kill switch.

Even without the immobilizer, the plan signal bankangle unit can be jumped out if it goes bad but then you loose signals.

None of what you mentioned adds value to it . Don't fall for tin man BS and make sure you are experienced working on Harleys.
 

Last edited by Jackie Paper; Oct 30, 2024 at 10:47 AM.
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Old Oct 30, 2024 | 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 98hotrodfatboy
A 2001 88"er is a good foundation for any build because they were still utilizing timken bearings on the left side of the crank.. If there's any doubt take an experience Harley mechanic with you have him take a listen, take a ride and go from there.
What are they asking for the bike?
They are asking $5500 but it's been on the market for a good while. So they should be willing to move a bit. Oh, and it doesnt' have buckhorns.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2024 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by sharkey
If you read through the 2001 kits specs, some included carb changes. If otherwise untouched, the carb on the bike might indicate which kits it may be. Also, the 2001 & 2002 cranks not only had timken bearing, they were forged. All cranks since were cast. Friends and myself have had a few 95" bikes built back then; nice motors. Upgrading cams to chain drive ('06 later style) is a good idea. Some of the HD cams are rather lackluster...again; look at your carb and check the spec sheets for kits of that era.
Yup. All those things. I've been restricting my search to pre-2003 models for just these reason (bearings and cranks). And that includes Evo models, too. If I go TC, And yep, I know about the tensioners, so that would get done, too. WIthout seeing the bike (it's 2 hours away) I can't tell what carb it has either. Just trying to learn what I can before making the drive that far to find out I don't want it.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2024 | 04:33 PM
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$5500 is not a bad starting price.. I would do like I said earlier take someone with you that knows Harley's.. At $4500 you could have a hell of a bike.. Good luck..
Don't forget the pics..
 

Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Oct 30, 2024 at 04:35 PM.
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Old Nov 9, 2024 | 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 98hotrodfatboy
$5500 is not a bad starting price.. I would do like I said earlier take someone with you that knows Harley's.. At $4500 you could have a hell of a bike.. Good luck..
Don't forget the pics..
As requested, picked it up today. Runs well, shifts cleanly. Looks fantastic. I snapped a few pics of the carb and jugs best I could without tearing into it. It's a HD carb but I don't see anything SE about it. Wondering if this helps anyone identify what I have?






 
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Old Nov 9, 2024 | 09:40 PM
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So I didn't post these pics earlier. And they may hold a key. To my novice eyes this does not look like the flatside carb kit on stage II and III TC88 builds. It DOES seem to resemble the SE 44mm CV carb (27934-99). And the bigger bore jugs and heads this is definitely a 95 build. You can hear there's a cam in there - the SE kit would be a SE257 but won't know for sure til I open it up. Hopefully I can see that when I do can chain tensioners. So I think what I have is a higher compression 95 build. Still a lot of unknowns, but a couple answers...




 
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Old Nov 10, 2024 | 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by scooper321
So I didn't post these pics earlier. And they may hold a key. To my novice eyes this does not look like the flatside carb kit on stage II and III TC88 builds. It DOES seem to resemble the SE 44mm CV carb (27934-99). And the bigger bore jugs and heads this is definitely a 95 build. You can hear there's a cam in there - the SE kit would be a SE257 but won't know for sure til I open it up. Hopefully I can see that when I do can chain tensioners. So I think what I have is a higher compression 95 build. Still a lot of unknowns, but a couple answers...



The stock CV40 and the CV44 look identical from the outside, but I think the 44 required a larger intake manifold, that will have "Screaming Eagle" written on top. Or you can simply remove the airbox cover and measure the throat diameter.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2024 | 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by SwedishMeatball
The stock CV40 and the CV44 look identical from the outside, but I think the 44 required a larger intake manifold, that will have "Screaming Eagle" written on top. Or you can simply remove the airbox cover and measure the throat diameter.
Good tip. I’ll make sure to do that.

Would someone keep the stock CV40 on a big bore (95) build? Would the 40 handle that upgrade?
 
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Old Nov 10, 2024 | 09:18 AM
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DEFINATELY keep the 40CV on a 95" upgrade. A 44CV is nicer, but not necessary. I've used the 40CV on 95", a 44CV on a hot 1200 XL (100hp) and a 51CV on a hot 103. All stock carbs with appropriate factory jetting.
Your going to hear a lot of opinions, but friends and I have done a few 95" builds and you can achieve 100HP with an extremely durable engine (As mentioned before, FORGED crank and timken bearing)
I sincerely believe "upgraded" carbs are an upsell, especially from independents. I've challenged dealers to dyno JUST the carb change and had NO takers...but you'll get LOTS of "butt dyno" opinions about how much better the bike can run. Face it; not many would spend hundreds of dollars and ADMIT it made no significant difference.. Also avoid like the plague any aftermarket CV trickery. Stock carb with factory available jets is ALL you need. There are NO miracle $20 parts...JMO
Beautiful looking bike, BTW
 
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Old Nov 10, 2024 | 09:21 AM
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The 40 is good for about 100 HP max, so back then, adequate for most mid-range builds.
I don't see any indication of SE heads, nor compression releases, so I'm thinking a BB with mild cam.
We used to do a ton of 95" BB kits with SE204 cams and rejetted stock carbs, which would almost always make 90+/90+ with excellent street manners and economy.
 
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