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Not following what bolts your talking about.. Can you post a pic?
Originally Posted by Bubba Zanetti
What are you gonna do OP?
I pulled the primary and my race puller should be here tomorrow. I am very good at talking myself out of doing things and it's a bad habit. I've been wrenching since I was old enough to hold one, I have a fully stocked shop and most of the specialty tools I need, tearing everything down literally took about a 1/2 hour. The most time-consuming part was finding clean places to lay the primary halves and the compensator/clutch basket assembly.
You know, I'm just as guilty of saying shitty things here and there but it always cracks me up when people chime in with dumb-*** comments. There isn't a mechanic alive who hasn't at one time, or another made a dumb mistake even after years of experience. I'm an engineer by trade so I am typically very meticulous about any work that I do. I'll own my mistake; it turns out the bolts are actually too long. I don't know if this is true, but my guess is the stock bolts didn't strip because they are a softer material but the ARP's tore right through the case material when they bottomed(?).
Either way, it's a bonus because I can reach the engine to trans bolts (and others) now and I'm swapping them for ARP's also.
I appreciate all the posts with helpful into especially about the different inserts, I'm going to watch that video and do some reading before I settle on one. My fear now is going through all of this and re-stripping the holes. My plan is to take the depth on the repaired hole, add the width of the Thunderheader bracket and the spacer then subtract a 1/4" to get the new bolt length. I'm not a mechanical engineer so does that sound reasonable?
After researching Time-Serts they have me sold. They say that the insert needs to be shorter than the hole depth but no specifics on how much shorter? It looks like the longest they sell for 5/16-18 is .75" and the hole I'm repairing is 1.5", will that insert work for me? Can anyone with experience chime in?
All sounds good. A vernier caliper will give you the measurement you need less an 1/8 ".. Don't over torque, 22 lb. ft. will be sufficient. Never used time certs but do believe they need countersinking.
I really like Max's idea about studs.. Some green Loctite 690 retainer and Heili coils and you'll never have an issue...
All sounds good. A vernier caliper will give you the measurement you need less an 1/8 ".. Don't over torque, 22 lb. ft. will be sufficient. Never used time certs but do believe they need countersinking.
I really like Max's idea about studs.. Some green Loctite 690 retainer and Heili coils and you'll never have an issue...
So my measurement should be minus an 1/8" to get the proper length bolt? The 2 bolts I stripped both happened well before 22lb, that's what the torque wrench was set to. And yeah, I could never live with studs and nuts, I've gone OCD with replacing everything with stainless ARP's
Last edited by snake_eyes; Nov 16, 2024 at 12:20 PM.
I'm convinced.. Thanks Max.. Heili coil is less work too...
Good info!
What about the usage/longevity issue that I see raised here and there with HELICOILs. Those bolts are holding the exhaust bracket so there's a strong possibility that they'll be removed every now and again.
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