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Should I just bite the bullet and pull it?

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Old Nov 16, 2024 | 02:59 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Tommy C
I'm convinced that OCD is just tweeking without the meth. Either one will ruin your life...
You're not wrong.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2024 | 03:15 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by snake_eyes
Good info!

What about the usage/longevity issue that I see raised here and there with HELICOILs. Those bolts are holding the exhaust bracket so there's a strong possibility that they'll be removed every now and again.
All the more reason to use studs..
 
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Old Nov 16, 2024 | 08:03 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by snake_eyes
So my measurement should be minus an 1/8" to get the proper length bolt?
If the insert is 3/4" long then you don't gain anything from using a bolt that goes in more than about one thread past the end of the insert. If the hole is 1-1/2" deep you don't run much chance of bottoming out.

Don't forget that the Timesert will sit proud of the surface of the part by the thickness of the flange. I would think if you're mounting an exhaust bracket that would be undesirable.

Heli-coils shouldn't pull out if properly installed. We use them in aircraft spark plug holes and the plugs are pulled at least once a year for inspection.

22 ft-lbs on a bolt that is bottomed out puts a whole different load on the threads than 22 ft-lbs on a bolt that's clamping something (and stretching the bolt.)
 

Last edited by John CC; Nov 16, 2024 at 08:10 PM.
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Old Nov 16, 2024 | 08:30 PM
  #34  
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I believe those screws are 5/16 x 18.. Technically for popper torquing and clamping force with any bolt you would need to get one and a half times the diameter of the bolt thread into it's fixture. Using a longer bolt will not aid in clamping/torquing force..
So 1.5 x 5/16 = 15/32 .. So on a 5/16 x 18 screw that would be roughly 9 threads to safely reach the max torque of that fastener..
 
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Old Nov 17, 2024 | 10:31 AM
  #35  
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OP, I'm not a big fan of inserts, unless there is absolutely no other alternative. Since you have a full inch and a half of material to thread, what are the chances of utilizing a "non-traditional" size to drill/tap new threads? Is there enough material internally to support thread strength for this purpose? This would be the deciding factor, on whether to use inserts or not.

One other factor to consider.... some of these holes support a vibrating exhaust system. This could mean "excessive wrenching." These threads are going to have to withstand that, also.

Might even suggest a non-permanent thread locker....

Factor this into your methods .
 

Last edited by NORTY FLATZ; Nov 17, 2024 at 10:39 AM. Reason: Add'l info
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Old Nov 17, 2024 | 11:07 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by NORTY FLATZ
OP, I'm not a big fan of inserts, unless there is absolutely no other alternative. Since you have a full inch and a half of material to thread, what are the chances of utilizing a "non-traditional" size to drill/tap new threads? Is there enough material internally to support thread strength for this purpose? This would be the deciding factor, on whether to use inserts or not.

One other factor to consider.... some of these holes support a vibrating exhaust system. This could mean "excessive wrenching." These threads are going to have to withstand that, also.

Might even suggest a non-permanent thread locker....

Factor this into your methods .
There is enough material on the transmission case, but the bolt head size is limited by the main bearing carrier...and my OCD would never allow different size heads anyhow. I'd go buy a whole new transmission case before that happened.

Well, after watching the new video @Max Headflow posted and drinking about it last night while watching more videos, I am going to go with the Heli-Coil. Bonus, I already have a kit I bought a couple of years ago to do this job. The race puller showed up this morning and I might have time to get out to the shop after getting some work done. I really appreciate all the good input guys; I've learned a lot.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2024 | 01:38 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by snake_eyes
I am going to go with the Heli-Coil.
If you drill it straight and tap it straight, it'll be better than new.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2024 | 09:31 AM
  #38  
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Heli-coil it and be done. I've used them for decades and never had one fail.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2024 | 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Max Headflow
Not really..

This one is better.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NZItuPnU7lU&t=3s

That was really interesting. I'm in the category that's been lead to believe that time-serts were by far the superior choice, and maybe in some instances they are, but this video shows otherwise.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2024 | 02:45 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Reindeer
That was really interesting. I'm in the category that's been lead to believe that time-serts were by far the superior choice, and maybe in some instances they are, but this video shows otherwise.
I'd heard that also even tho I've not used them but have used Helicoils a lot and some keenserts. The main reason for keenserts was that the hole was so buggered up that a helicoil wouldn't work.

I wonder if it's the fact that there is some clearance between the timesert insert and the hole.. Helicoils wind in and have tension on the hole for max bite.
 
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