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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Are you going to put anything on it to keep it from corroding? Clear lacquer is common. If you want something easier to remove later, there's a product called SHARKHIDE Metal & Aluminum Protectant. It's not cheap, but it beats watching your hard work turn to white powder.
Definitely, I am just not sure what yet but it will be protected before it's installed. It's freezing in NYC metro area so I have some time. I'll definitely look into sharkhide, thanks!
Edit, I looked it up, that's definitely affordable, thanks, I'm gonna get a can..
A little about me, I'm in an engineer by trade, and this is my 16th big twin but, I don't make them pretty. I make them run like a banshee and perform as well as they can, with reliability and safety, but looking nice is a second thought. I have a nice budget this time around because my kids are grown up and I can focus on my Harley. So this time, I am not only making a runner but also I'm doing all the cases and making it look nice as well. I don't care for show bikes, or chrome, or bling or anything flashy. I like old school, shovel aluminum look so that's my focus (since I have her running flawlessly). I don't mind blowing money on her is my point so I have no problem spending more for protecting my aluminum. Eventually I plan to have everything shiny aluminum and nice. Then I'll be done, I did all efi with a power vision and tuned myself with fuelmotto help, with S&S AC, all the cam and performance work, so I can focus on all the aluminum now (whereas usually I don't and just focus on performance and reliability).
Of all my bikes, this one is by far the best! Nothing beats my twin cam dyna (and I'm a shovel guy, or was), so I'm gonna focus on making it look nice this time!
Last edited by GROOVY1975; Jan 4, 2025 at 06:11 PM.
No clear
Notice how that works out on factory fork tubes
An occasional touch up with your favorite metal polish is all that`s required
I've never cleared my aluminum before, but it seemed like a good idea. I usually just mother's mag and polish it. I might do a test on my fender rails to see if it keeps it clean. I already ordered it so I minds well try it and to be honest, my fender rails are a pain in the ***** to keep clean with my saddle bags so if it helps there, it's money well spent. Like I said though, I have only polished aluminum over the years and I ride in anything so they are always getting wet (aluminum) but I'm curious if it helps..
Thanks for the heads up! And yes, my forks always look terrible!
Forgot to post the final pic with the scratch sanded/buffed out. I removed all original damage and buffed out the aluminum. I love how the final product came out so I'm getting the trans top, points cover, and continuing the rest to match the trans side cover..
I just bought a cam cover for 30 bucks, obviously needs sanding but overall in good shape so this is next:
All of my original cases are in great shape with no scratches or anything so I'll clean them and sell them once I begin to swap parts. I also have an original seat (almost brand new) as it was the first thing I changed and vance and hines pipes I'll sell all at once. Parts are sitting in my closet for years but it's time to sell off parts I'm done with so it works out..
Last edited by GROOVY1975; Jan 6, 2025 at 04:56 PM.
One thing is for sure, black powdercoat came off a hell of a lot easier then the stock grey. I did the same process, first stripped the paint with an hour wait, barely anything happened so I let it sit overnight (12 hours). Barely anything happened, a little grey smudge came off so I hit it with 300 grit sandpaper, and Dremel stripper. That took everything off but took a while. Once I had it stripped of all grey, I began sanding it by hand with 400 grit (wet sanded) and now she's ready to polish sand (1,000) grit, then I'll polish the piece to match the primary. It took a lot longer than the larger black powdercoat (primary cover), but the end result is the same. I'll follow-up once it's chrome shiny!
I'm having so much fun polishing up my aluminum, and my only complaint is that I wish I had known I could've done this 2/3 years ago. I've been riding with the ugly grey covers and the mid control shaft for 50,000 or more miles (I only run forward control but I didn't have a primary cover at the time so I left the shaft intact). I would've done it day 1 if I had known it was possible so I REALLY appreciate everyone's help and input!!
This is what it looked like originally. I left the cover (original points cover) on to protect the inside since I'm not using it and will use my original cover so I figured it was best to leave it on while I sanded the piece:
Last edited by GROOVY1975; Jan 11, 2025 at 08:44 AM.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.
