I feel you on the OCD paranoia.

I disagree completely. I've been wrenching since I was 6 or 7, so that's 51ish years, there is no such thing as a "calibrated arm", you might think it is, and you may be close, but you know what they say about "close". During the day in real life, I'm an engineer so I'm well versed in doing things by the book and getting them done right. There was a failure not because it's a "****" bolt, but because of the bolt stretching when torqued properly and the bolts' ability to take that stress and tighten to spec only once. They might could have used a different grade bolt but that would increase costs which will have guys in other forums bitching about Harley ripping them off.

I realize that my paragraph above is contradictory. I said that I do things by the book but we're only having this discussion because I didn't do things by the book. I'm a dumb *** for changing tactics because some guys said they reuse those bolts, and I guess I missed the part about them doing "dad tight" torquing. Lesson learned.

 

Well one can get a feel for bolt stretch and that's when I'll stop.. Sometimes I use Torque wrenches but not always and it also depends on the use or seriousness of the part being fastened. I just felt that the critical torque value of the inner primary was not that critical to me. Especially when the female threads are aluminum.

 

Got the cam chest completely buttoned up, so the bottom end is done. I was waiting a Feuling video, and they showed the slop in the stock crank sprocket and said it could contribute up to 5 degrees of cam timing. When I was putting mine back together, I noticed that they weren't lying so for all the money I'm spending I figured a few extra bucks wasn't going to hurt. Ordered the new Feuling crank sprocket from Dennis Kirk and threw that in at the same time. Just like the Feuling cam plate, the tolerance on this sprocket is crazy tight, definitely a press fit. It sucked getting it on to check cam sprocket spacing then getting it back off for final install, but I'm very happy with the result.




Also got some fresh new bolts for the inner primary, nothing more comforting than a one click 28lb install! While swapping the starter bolts for ARP's I found another stock bolt hiding behind the battery so that was an unexpected plus.

 

I didn't notice play in my drive sprocket when installing the new plate etc.. However, the next time I take it apart I will take a closer look.. Thanks for the heads up..
Curious if anyone knows of a better, quieter cam chain setup.. Stretch can make a difference as well, especially if your running higher spring pressures..

 

Strating at 4:00. My sprocket was actually worse.

 

Complete top-end ARP bolt set (including the $$$ head bolts) waiting for heads to come back from FuelMoto. I'm out of things to do until I get the tappet block covers back from powder.

 

Cool build, very similar to one I just finished. I ran the RS576, close specs to the 777. I’m running 5.3’s and a HPI 55, runs better than I thought it would.

Had a similar deal with an Evo rocker box bolt. Had that damn box on and off three times, on the second my 35 year old craftsman didn’t click and I whiffed for a bit. The third time torquing the box my Quinn wrench lost torque right before the bolt broke. Got it out and replaced them all.

Glad you got it but I would enjoy 117 or a 121 build thread.

 

I’m sure someone will one going for you asap… 😆

 

While I'm waiting for my heads and powder to come in, I'm working on little things to kill time. I pulled apart the breathers to replace the valve and filter and lo and behold the shop manual says to "replace" the parts of the breather since the gasket is attached in manufacturing. Genius. The gasket kit from FM includes those gaskets but my question is are you guys using sealer to install them? Also, while I'm here anything that I should be checking on the rocker arms? The engine only has ~6k on it.

Gasket removal in progress.

 

At 6,000 mi you should be fine but it's always wise to check end play of a rocker on the shaft in the rocker plate assembly, it's all in the FSM. Also just check for abnormal wear to push rods and the valve stems.
I always replace the gaskets and you see those two little holes and the rocker plate assembly? Those are oil drain back holes. Drill them out to .125"