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I suspect you will find part 4 in the upper figure touching part 2 in the lower figure. If so, I would replace both front and rear mounts. Don't bother trying to fix it; at best you'll buy yourself a couple of months. Failure of the front mount stresses the rear mount, so replace it as well. I went with the Predator front mount, but they don't pay me to tell you that.
(Part 3 is a 0.020" feeler gauge)
Finally got my sons Metric bike off lift and rolled the WG up, Yes the front mount has zero clearance, can;t even get any thickness of feeler gauge in, its actually pressed flat on the top from the engine resting on the rubber, its likely original, anyhow ordered a OEM front and a Kinetic rear. Also looked over maintenance last year and risers got new OEM Polyurethane Bushings last summer. I may go back to rubber if this isn't quite enough. Tip to tail the bike got $2599.00 worth of repairs/inspections most if not all from just sitting too long. Fuel issues mainly as it got new everything fuel related from pump to injectors all new, tank flushed as well, along with tires and a few other items.
Don't know about the particular issue but I had an '00 and now have an '03 WG and on both the bars vibrated quite a bit at idle, especially noticeable with one hand on the bar, the other side shakes like hell. The bikes are/were rock solid on the road so I never worried about it and attributed it to the shape of the mini apes, the bar being longer than normal.
New isolators, front stock OEM, rear Kinetic Structures. Easy job, bolts and nuts pretty easily accessible, motor must have came up an inch it seemed. Final thoughts, vibes a good 70-80% better. Once new mount in back, really no room for shim in front. Now I have new rubber riser bushings also but current ones are new polyurethane installed before purchase. Thinking going back to rubber will get me another improvement. Thoughts? I also thought these new isolators will break in some also. But wow big leap forward, I could see it clearly once old and new front mounts were laying next to each other.
Once new mount in back, really no room for shim in front.
That is how it should be. The failing front mount is angled toward the rear and as it sags it pushes the engine back against the rear mount, stretching the rear mount backwards. If you put a jack under the engine and remove the front mount bolts there will be a gap. Shimming the gap doesn't fix anything.
That is how it should be. The failing front mount is angled toward the rear and as it sags it pushes the engine back against the rear mount, stretching the rear mount backwards. If you put a jack under the engine and remove the front mount bolts there will be a gap. Shimming the gap doesn't fix anything.
That was what I figured, after seeing front was in proper place it appeared I did the right thing.
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