2000 FXDX would not start
Saturday I proceeded to trouble shoot the issue.. Pulled the plugs and they looked like crap.. Most likely because the bike could start. It's an all bore 107 so it works the starter but usually fires right off. New plugs made no difference. Since the plugs were out, compression read, 190 front and 185 rear.
I suspected weak spark. So the first thing I did was check the crank sensor. Bike has 70000 miles on it and has had a hard life as a 95/116/107. Blew the motor up few years ago so suspected the cranks sensor was weak. Turns out is wasn't. Ohmed out at 1035 ohmes. While cranking it put out also 5 volts..
Add:
I also checked that the ignition module didn't die by read the current EEProm map / settings out.. It was still correct.
Last edited by Max Headflow; Apr 13, 2025 at 11:28 PM.

Bike got harder to start so it's been sitting some.. Cranking speed seemed OK. Then bike wouldn't start. When cranking it would backfire through the exhaust. Sounded like a pistol round, nice flame about 8 inches long out the exhaust. The starter seems to be cranking OK. Bike seemed to be behaving similar so I thought it was the ignition module. I tried replacing the module and had the same issue. I figured to check the cranking voltage and found that it was dropping to 6.45 volts. I have a reasonably good LI battery out of another bike and got less drop. Motor lit right off, after another backfire though the exhaust.

The battery has in interesting failure.. Typically the impedance goes up and the battery self discharges but on this one the voltage reads a little low and my battery tester says it's got 320 CCA. Though the battery voltage is low (12.0V) the charger took longer than an hour (6 amp) and it still didn't fully charge.
This volt meter has a min / max which makes it good for measuring voltage drop when starting. Should have done this test when replacing the coil.
Original battery while cranking
LI Battery
Checked battery voltage with motor running and it read 13 volts when brining the RPMs up (LI battery). Crap it ain't charging. I popped apart the alternator connector and checked resistance. Coil was 0.1 ohm. To ground it was 0.1 ohm.
Pulled the primary and the stator is fried.. I decided to replace inner primary seals while at it.. The inner primary bearing race had walked but I was able to get bearing knives behind it and pull it out far enough to used a Jim's puller.
Preventative maintenance is much better than being broke down on a ride.
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I've never heard fo using a bearing knife to move a walked bearing.
I googled it and all I got were folding knives with bearings...
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
Thanks....
Adding "puller" after Bearing knife got the right stuff...
I learned something new today...
As always, I appreciate the education...











