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Cause it can snowball on you, I mean, if something (emotion or measurement) drives you to spend for a Darkhorse bottom end then might as well put on some "super" flowing heads and go 107" or 110" to take advantage of it.
But, no bottom end work, keep the heads stock, mild bolt in cam with or without 110" sounds like an economical way for good return, that's really all I'm saying, value for the return you want
It does snowball. But numbers are numbers. My run out exceeded even the updates specs. They changed them from 2007 print. Crank was scarred. Though this I noted from sticky rods. If they move free maybe don't worry.
Don`t start buying parts until you know what you need.
Do the stuff that doesn`t cost money first, runouts, measurements etc.
You don`t need a special tool to measure runout of a shaft, just a regular mag base and an indicator, and a steel plate you can bolt to the engine case.
Take what some posters say with a huge grain of salt, especially the google regurgitator whose name rhymes with:
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Sep 5, 2025 at 01:09 PM.
@Fancierdoughnut
Don`t spend any money until you know what you need.
Do the stuff that doesn`t cost money first, runouts, measurements etc.
And take what some posters say with a huge grain of salt, especially the google regurgitator whose name rhymes with flounders.
😂
at the very least, i want cams and new tensioners.... manual primary tensioner as well. Will need adjustable pushrods and lifters as a bare minimum too.
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Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
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