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Slow crank on cold start - 2015 FXDL

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Old Jan 11, 2026 | 09:45 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Bass-M
Classic symptom of a failing starter. They often drag when hot, but on these bikes it's common when cold too, especially with age. Your cables and battery are good. The starter itself is likely worn out brushes tired or armature dragging. Solenoid is possible but less likely. Swap the starter with a known good one to test before buying. A quality aftermarket starter (like a Denso) is often better and cheaper than OEM if it's bad.
Denso IS OEM for many years of Harleys, both of mine for sure...and for 2015 so far as I know, part# is 31618-06A
 
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Old Jan 12, 2026 | 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Bass-M
Classic symptom of a failing starter.
The last thing to suspect when having cranking issues is the starter, and swapping out starters is not troubleshooting, no matter what Google AI says.

@baba booey You need a new battery.
 

Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Jan 12, 2026 at 06:56 AM.
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Old Jan 12, 2026 | 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by GREENOHAWK69
Bad Battery Indicators:

Below 12.0V: Discharged or low on charge; likely won't start the bike.

Drops below 10V-10.5V during cranking: Indicates poor health or dead cell, even if it reads high when resting (surface charge).

Check under load: Have someone try to start the bike while you watch the voltage; it shouldn't drop below 10V
From what I’ve read, 9.6V is used as a minimum while cranking.

 

Last edited by Rocking_it; Jan 12, 2026 at 07:16 AM.
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Old Jan 12, 2026 | 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Rocking_it
From what I’ve read, 9.6V is used as a minimum while cranking.
That's correct.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2026 | 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Rocking_it
From what I’ve read, 9.6V is used as a minimum while cranking.
Yep, that is what Bosch says in their starting system troubleshooting guide, and that is for cars....in my experience a bike with a smaller battery may go a bit lower.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2026 | 11:19 AM
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The 9.6 while cranking I think is engineering standard...cars and bikes.

Now that's as engineered equipment and the battery CCA recommend battery.

Put a huge battery in it and it will rise I think, or modify the motor and it will drop.

I am surprised it cranked at 5 volts. Your lucky it was firing the plugs. And you really risk damaging electronics since to do same work at lower voltage requires more amperage.

About the only thing protecting the system may be the amperage is just not there in a bad battery.

On modern BCM system, that may prevent damage by not cranking. Quality cars won't attempt to crank at low voltage, yet their headlights will still shine.
 

Last edited by Jackie Paper; Jan 12, 2026 at 11:22 AM.
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Old Jan 12, 2026 | 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by John CC
That could mean the battery is toast, or it could also mean the starter is drawing to much current (also toast). Did the voltage continue to drop the longer you cranked?

If you have access to another battery, or can safely jump it, does it crank OK?
in the past I hit with a jump box and I think it struggled too.

if I recall correctly.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2026 | 11:09 PM
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I put the charger back on the battery before I test/crank again and the light on the charger almost immediately turned GREEN.

That seems to me an odd behavior of a “good” battery.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2026 | 06:53 PM
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Connect a volt meter, red probe to the battery (+) and black probe the the starter terminal with the big heavy wire coming from the solenoid. Try to start it and read the voltage drop. If you get more than 3 volts, move the black probe to the solenoid terminal with the wire coming from the battery and test it again. Let us know what you find.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2026 | 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Bass-M
...Your cables and battery are good.....
That's not an assumption by golly, that's an outright declaration of fact! Only someone with omnipresence would know that and yet I wasn't there

Alright, show of hands, who has never registered under other aliases
 
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