When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
If I am remembering that wrong, I welcome the correction.
Nope, right on all counts. The bushing can cause the brake light to stay on, and there's no adjustment for the switch. Be careful moving the lever around as you can break the switch otherwise.
Took the brake lever apart, the pivot pin bushing seems fine, but it does have a little play in it, is the pin supposed to slide in snug? Might order a new one anyway.
Also tried this:
Exact same symptoms I'm experiencing.
Followed his procedure but I'm not getting the pushback from the back end of the piston ram. I can't even push it in and out like he does. It does slide about 2/3mm but there is no pressure on it to push it all the way out.
Am I looking at a brake cylinder rebuild/replacement here?
Thanks.
Burnt out brakelight bulb of course would trigger this I think, so also start from the bulbs in the rear and trace the lines for rub till they make their connections
There's a spring inside that should push it all the way out to the stop. Sounds like it's sticking inside. Could be that if you take the seal out and clean the shaft of the piston it will fix it, but at that point you might as well install a rebuild kit for good measure.
There should be be red rubber grease in there to keep things lubed, sealed and corrosion free.
Can anyone confirm if this is the ABS junction box? Pretty sure it is. If so, then I can't bleed the brakes myself for the cylinder rebuild.
That is the junction box between the master cylinder, front caliper lines, and ABS lines.
Why can't you bleed the brakes after your master cylinder rebuild...?
While using the Dealer's Digital Tech 2, or one of the other aftermarket tools for activating the ABS module is always nice to do, as long as you don't "activate" the ABS module until after you get your front master cylinder, brake lines, & calipers bled, no air will get into the ABS module requiring it to be purged.
You can also bench bleed the master cylinder, before attaching it to the main front brake line, to reduce the amount of air you will need to bleed out through the front calipers.
If you push out on your brake lever does the brake like go out??
I had the exact symptoms and the only fix I could do to remedy it was to super glue a 1/4" copper flare onto the switch and it solved all my problems.. If you zoom in on the pic with the lever in it you can see the flare a little better.. The second Pic is the actual flare that I used..
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Apr 30, 2026 at 12:23 PM.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.
