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engine warning light and red warning light.

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Old Apr 22, 2026 | 08:15 PM
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Default engine warning light and red warning light.

2015 Lowrider, recently had aftermarket fbomb exhaust off and stock exhaust on for compliance.
passed compliance and now has the Fbomb exhaust back on.
Now getting engine warning light staying on and the red warning light staying on.
Only things I unplugged were the O2 sensors, they were plugged back in correctly later.
Disconnected the battery for hours to reset the ecu as advised by someone, still has engine light on.
Have I missed something obvious?
Any quick checks here before I consider taking it in?
Is it safe to ride? haven't noticed anything amiss.
Any advice appreciated.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2026 | 08:31 PM
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You did not post the codes. All I can offer is black connector is rear sensor. Post doesn't state how long the exhaust was on before removing.
 

Last edited by Ed Ramberger; Apr 22, 2026 at 08:32 PM.
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Old Apr 22, 2026 | 09:36 PM
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Hi
Both sensor plugs remained in situ, so they didn't get mixed up.
Fbomb was on when I bought the bike, removed it about 4 weeks ago and put on a stock exhaust off a 2010 street bob.
put back the fbomb 2 days ago.
Thanks.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2026 | 12:01 AM
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ok, figured out how to check the codes:
ECM:
P0031 - o2 sensor heater control sensor low (bank1, sensor1)
P0134 - o2 sensor, no activity (bank1, sensor1)

BCM:
b2262 - stuck front brake switch
 
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Old Apr 24, 2026 | 10:24 AM
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Looks like the 02 Sensor died.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2026 | 10:49 AM
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Since you putzed around with the exhaust, I'd ride the bike, clear the codes a couple of times and see if the codes go away. I'd bet long term closed loop is off..

Obviously the stuck on front brake light is a different issue..
 
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Old Apr 25, 2026 | 08:29 AM
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I would also check the O2 sensor wires on bank1, sensor1 very closely.

You've switched the sensors between two headers a couple times. Those wires can take a beating if you're not careful.

It is not impossible that all the twisting/pulling on the wires at the O2 sensor during exhaust changes has damaged them...
 
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Old Apr 25, 2026 | 09:01 AM
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I'm gonna stick my neck out here and put my money on the front brake piston in the master cylinder needs to be rebuilt because it is not returning fully from it's compressed position by the brake lever and now there is a bit of sloppiness in the brake lever and it does not push the brake switch in enough to turn it off.

In one long sentence

That's where my money is on that!

P.S. Or something totally unrelated like a wire rubbed or torn and frayed somewhere.
 

Last edited by Suede Blue Man; Apr 25, 2026 at 09:05 AM.
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Old Apr 26, 2026 | 05:21 PM
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Went ahead and ordered a new front o2 sensor, that should resolve that issue.
As for the brake switch, the front brake lever has some play in it and it keeps falling back onto the switch, triggering the brake light. So my brake light is on without the lever being depressed, not entirely safe.
Are the levers sprung open? Perhaps the spring fell out or has lost its strength?
Is there a quick fix for this? Any advice welcome.
Thanks for the input so far.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2026 | 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by snoozy

Went ahead and ordered a new front o2 sensor, that should resolve that issue.
As for the brake switch, the front brake lever has some play in it and it keeps falling back onto the switch, triggering the brake light. So my brake light is on without the lever being depressed, not entirely safe.
Are the levers sprung open? Perhaps the spring fell out or has lost its strength?
Is there a quick fix for this? Any advice welcome.
Thanks for the input so far.

The front brake lever is held in place by a Pivot Pin (#8 below) and a pivot bushing (#10 below). If the bushing has been worn, it will affect the fitment between the lever and the switch. Perhaps a new pivot bushing #45423-96 will fix your issues.




If there is damage to the lever, pivot pin, or pivot pin perch themselves, you'll need to replace the damaged parts...


FYI.. It's been awhile since I have had to mess with the actual front brake light switch. As I remember, there is no adjustment with/to the brake switch itself. So it's either installed correctly or not... If I am remembering that wrong, I welcome the correction.
 
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