You'll have no problems. I checked mine, it's maybe 540 degrees total from on to off.Mine is older and well used, yours is new maybe a little different. This site never ceases to amaze me.

 

Piniongear, in my case, do you think the friction pad could have come off? I can scew the **** in all the way and it won't hold the throttle.

 

That should be under warranty b5mac. Take it to the dealer and check it out. Thanks for that link Critter, I had a couple cheap plastic ones like that that worked great but I kept losin' them to the gremlins... That one looks like it'll stay secure. I usethe throttle tensionerall the time on hwy trips.

 

My bike isn't under warranty any longer. Anything that I have to do to it, I will do myself. I don't have to worry about voiding the warranty any more.

 

I didnt like the stock locking goodie, never could get it to work right. I opted for the Vista from az motor sports instead.
For me, it works better, and you dont have to worry about tearing it up by rolling on and off the throttle when it's locked up.

 

It is possible that the pad did come off the assembly. The way to find out is to open up the throttle assembly. If the screw does not lock down the rotation, then there is a problem, and it has to be the pad. Note: I call it a pad.....HD calls it a friction spring.
I do not know how handy you are with tools, but this is a simple thing to do.

1) Remove the 4 screws from the throttle using the proper size Torx driver.
2) Lift up the upper half of the clamp, along with the electrical components that are housed inside that half (start switch, turn signal switch etc.). You only need to lift these high enough to gain access to both throttle cable barrels.
3) Removing the throttle cable barrels is the most difficult part (installing them back in is equally difficult) What I do is take the adjustment barrels on the outer throttle cables and screw them in as far as possible. This gives you a lot of slack on the inner cables. Use needle nose pliers to rotate the cable ends and get them free of the throttle drum. There is a slot at each barrel that allows the cable to pass through to enable removal of the cable. Don't lose the barrels!
4) Now you can remove the drum (grip) and see what the problem is with your friction screw. It all goes back together the same way is came apart, but in the reverse order of course. Readjust your outer cable adjustments............pg


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thanks piniongear, I've taken it apart before so it shouldn't be a problem.