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The FXDL Idiot Light relocation part

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  #21  
Old 06-23-2009, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by dpriest
i moved mine to the dash panel. its a bit of work but i think it was worth it.
Please explain about the bit of work, I kinda like what you have there.

Jay
 
  #22  
Old 06-23-2009, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by timberwolfz28
Got it on ebay. it's a tribar type. Seems like it was somewhere in the $69-$99 range. Chrome is beautiful and it puts out plenty of light. It's a two wire setup, so when replacing the factory 3 wire headlight you don't use the ground wire (the new one is body grounded)
Is it 4.5in or 5 3/4in? How did you mount it?

Jay
 
  #23  
Old 06-23-2009, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by jcmusic
Is it 4.5in or 5 3/4in? How did you mount it?

Jay
5 3/4". it's mounts with a single bolt from the bottom. I found the center of the stock bottom triple tree, drilled a hole, and used a stainless allen head bolt.

My aftermarket forks already had a hole there.
 
  #24  
Old 06-23-2009, 05:31 PM
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I assume you are talking about my bike? If so, I must first clarify the sig pic was before it was finished. notice the hanging control behind the front wheel? Here's some more recent pictures...





Originally Posted by sfteam85
It looks like a 2003. Is it? I noticed a couple of things on the silver and black that looks like a 100th Anniversary. The first is that it looks long and has a decided aftermarket look. No problem. I'm just trying to preserve what I can to give mine the aesthetic and performance advantages that it was meant to have.
yep, it's a 2003

One is the stock wheels. I will eventually chrome them but for now, I have the 13 spoke 19" and 16" wheels to keep it low and to avoid the wobble problems associated with the 21" production tires. It' looks like a 21" on this bike. I didn't change the rake and in using a stock FXST front end, the same as the FXDWG, except the 3/4" axle which was used prior to 2004.

It looks like you're using aftermarket wheels and you're short at least one rotor on the front wheel. It also appears you don't have a wide glide front fender. You can get spacers that will allow you to use stock, narrow glide front fenders. You can get them for as little as $30.00-$70.00 so your fender doesn't sit right on the tire.
They are Weld Recluse wheels. no wobble that I have noticed up to about 90mph anyway. I did get spacers... nice chrome ones of course. the fender is mounted now, as you see Neither rotor was on there in my sig pic.
As far as wheel spacers, I got chrome 1.5" spacers for each side in the front, but found I needed another .050 to make it right...that just required a machine bushing spacer from the local hardware store. no worries now.

I tried to put pics on my garage but they didn't take.

Anyway love the intake with the big radius pipes and the pull back. That really speaks to what I'm looking for. Looks like you're on the right track. As far as head lights, I'm using a new take off from an FXDWG. It has that decidedly stock look but I'm OK with it. I'd love to get a Kodlin blue mini rectangle or a purple hooter. Just don't have $500.00 for them. My light will go back together the way it was designed. I think I could actually use the low rider's headlamp bucket if I wanted.

Anyway, I'll go into the custom axle and spacer kit for the narrow glide wheel fitment on the wide glide front end. I'll tell you where I got it. I think it was $173.00 from Custom Cycle Engineering, including shipping.

More to follow,

Carlos
sfteam85
 
  #25  
Old 06-23-2009, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by dpriest
i moved mine to the dash panel. its a bit of work but i think it was worth it.
This looks sharp. Can you describe how you did this? I was looking into JRK's solution which also looks good.
 
  #26  
Old 06-23-2009, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by timberwolfz28
Must be I'm the only one who just unplugged them from under the dash and set them on the shelf when I got ride of the eyebrow. I can see my front signals to know whether or not they are blinking, so there's 2 of the 5 lights I didn't need. never had a neutral light on any dirtbike I rode from the time I was 7 until I got on a road bike, no need for one now.. so there's the third of 5 gone. I can tell at night if my high beams are on or not without the little blue light, so there's number 4 off the list.

Only thing left is the oil pressure light... I could probably stand to have that back on there, but really, just like the neutral light, I got by for a long time without one...

Cleaned it right up and didn't have to relocate ANYTHING

I hear ya. I unplugged them & tossed 'em out. I did keep & relocate the oil pressure light though.
 
Attached Thumbnails  The FXDL Idiot Light relocation part-motor-mount-017.jpg    The FXDL Idiot Light relocation part-motor-mount-018.jpg  

Last edited by Azgunner; 06-23-2009 at 10:34 PM.
  #27  
Old 06-23-2009, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by shp111
This looks sharp. Can you describe how you did this? I was looking into JRK's solution which also looks good.
Dpriest's work looks good. A little dremel work involved I'm sure. Doing this might also depend on what year LR you got since the dashes changed a bit in '04 as far as the light cluster fitting between the mounting screws.
 
  #28  
Old 06-24-2009, 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Azgunner
Dpriest's work looks good. A little dremel work involved I'm sure. Doing this might also depend on what year LR you got since the dashes changed a bit in '04 as far as the light cluster fitting between the mounting screws.
I have the '04. I'll measure it to see how tight a fit its going to be. If not I may just ditch everything and just add the oil light via JRK's solution.

I wonder if anyone has added the led's to the tach. I've seen a couple places that do custom builds adding LED's to speedo's.
 
  #29  
Old 06-24-2009, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by jcmusic
Please explain about the bit of work, I kinda like what you have there.

Jay
layed out and cut radius with a unibit then finished with a dremel. sides of light assemble and speedo/tach bracket need to be trimmed. had to bend dash mounting tabs out a little for clearence and enlarge holes so clips could float. makes it easier to reassemble. also used a rotary file to move the speedo and tach further apart. just takes a bit of futsin around to get it all to fit. sorry about the crappy pics.
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heres a pic after paint and powder
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Last edited by dpriest; 06-24-2009 at 07:38 AM.
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  #30  
Old 06-24-2009, 03:52 PM
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Default The dash was my next idea if the clap didn't work

I was trying to not alter anything if I didn't have to but that's about the best idea I could think of.

It appears that you had the clamp already. I'm wondering why you moved it if you already had a place for it. Most people looking to move the cluster have something before 2006. Like me, they are moving it from the headlight visor.

It looks really good. Did you go with another clamp?

C
 


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