Foward Controls Install?
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,438
Likes: 3
From: Chesterfield, VA
RE: Foward Controls Install?
Do a search for Foward Control Install by forum member WS6 Formula. He offers awesome details as how to install the Harley Kit without removing the primary covers.
Tourer
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 435
Likes: 0
From:
RE: Foward Controls Install?
To install the complete HD kit without buying additional parts then YES you need to remove the primary. You can do it the other ways but it involves cutting the stock shaft and buying additional parts that are not necessary.
Here is the write up I did when installing my HD forward controls. https://www.hdforums.com/m_1636075/tm.htm
Here is the write up I did when installing my HD forward controls. https://www.hdforums.com/m_1636075/tm.htm
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,124
Likes: 255
From: From Long Island, now in So. Cal
RE: Foward Controls Install?
.................................................. .................................................. .......
original: Ws6 formula
you don't have to remove the primary on the 2006 and up dyna's
the 2006 and up kit requires you to remove the primary to install a longer rear transmission shift lever and to remove the original shifter shaft that goes through the primary cover. both can be done without removing the primary.
i installed the cheaper 2005 kit with a longer 2006 custom polished stainless steel shift rod that comes with the stronger heim joints (they won't break like the original joints). You have to use a longer shift rod with the 2005 kit other wise the front shift lever will hit the primary when you up shift. The custom shift rods are a lot nicer then the original, and the kit included cadmium plated shift rods.
removing the original shift shaft lever
get a hacksaw blade and tape each end with duct tape, leaving about two inches exposed in the middle. Also put some duct tape on the primary and cylinder cooling fins. Tape a wrench on one end to get a better grip (on the end of the blade so as you pull on the wrench you will be on the cutting stroke of the blade). Slip the blade between the primary and engine from the bottom of the bike with the wrench end on the bottom. Position the shaft so you can cut about a quarter inch from the lever (not in the welded area). Use your other hand to guide the top of the blade as you cut. After cutting through, the shaft will slide right out, and the lever will just fall to the floor.
cover for the original shift shaft lever hole
i used a chrome carriage bolt http://www.chromebolt.com/51618-x-134-chrome-carriage-bolt-p-845.html, and put a two inch piece of rubber hose on the threads then added some shrink sleeving on the hose to get a nice snug press fit into the empty shaft hole. If you have a black primary: Paint a unplated carriage bolt. Aluminum cover: Scotch brite a chrome carriage bolt.
installing the new rear trans shift lever
https://www.hdforums.com/m_3212510/tm.htm
(don't do it, leave in the original) using the original rear transmission shift arm has two benefits, appearance and performance. The shift rod will sit at a more level position, and you will also have a shorter shift throw.
forward control part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/gma_product.jsp?product%3c%3eprd_id=84552444229229 3&folder%3c%3efolder_id=2534374302288287&a ssortment%3c%3east_id=2534374302288287&bmuid=1 180998448594&bmlocale=en_us
shift linkage part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/browse/browse_products.jsp?folder%3c%3efolder_id=25343743 02291395&product%3c%3eprd_id=845524442292293&assor tment%3c%3east_id=2534374302287931&bmuid=122396127 3502&bmlocale=en_us
larger image here:
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/276...1020x63bz2.jpg
you don't have to remove the primary on the 2006 and up dyna's
the 2006 and up kit requires you to remove the primary to install a longer rear transmission shift lever and to remove the original shifter shaft that goes through the primary cover. both can be done without removing the primary.
i installed the cheaper 2005 kit with a longer 2006 custom polished stainless steel shift rod that comes with the stronger heim joints (they won't break like the original joints). You have to use a longer shift rod with the 2005 kit other wise the front shift lever will hit the primary when you up shift. The custom shift rods are a lot nicer then the original, and the kit included cadmium plated shift rods.
removing the original shift shaft lever
get a hacksaw blade and tape each end with duct tape, leaving about two inches exposed in the middle. Also put some duct tape on the primary and cylinder cooling fins. Tape a wrench on one end to get a better grip (on the end of the blade so as you pull on the wrench you will be on the cutting stroke of the blade). Slip the blade between the primary and engine from the bottom of the bike with the wrench end on the bottom. Position the shaft so you can cut about a quarter inch from the lever (not in the welded area). Use your other hand to guide the top of the blade as you cut. After cutting through, the shaft will slide right out, and the lever will just fall to the floor.
cover for the original shift shaft lever hole
i used a chrome carriage bolt http://www.chromebolt.com/51618-x-134-chrome-carriage-bolt-p-845.html, and put a two inch piece of rubber hose on the threads then added some shrink sleeving on the hose to get a nice snug press fit into the empty shaft hole. If you have a black primary: Paint a unplated carriage bolt. Aluminum cover: Scotch brite a chrome carriage bolt.
installing the new rear trans shift lever
https://www.hdforums.com/m_3212510/tm.htm
(don't do it, leave in the original) using the original rear transmission shift arm has two benefits, appearance and performance. The shift rod will sit at a more level position, and you will also have a shorter shift throw.
forward control part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/gma_product.jsp?product%3c%3eprd_id=84552444229229 3&folder%3c%3efolder_id=2534374302288287&a ssortment%3c%3east_id=2534374302288287&bmuid=1 180998448594&bmlocale=en_us
shift linkage part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/browse/browse_products.jsp?folder%3c%3efolder_id=25343743 02291395&product%3c%3eprd_id=845524442292293&assor tment%3c%3east_id=2534374302287931&bmuid=122396127 3502&bmlocale=en_us
larger image here:
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/276...1020x63bz2.jpg
Last edited by WS6 Formula; Oct 14, 2008 at 12:36 AM.
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Road Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 776
Likes: 0
RE: Foward Controls Install?
As quoted , No on the Kury kit .
I just installed one on my 2007 Low Rider , Very easy to install ...
[IMG]local://upfiles/12373/F12E32587D7E447388FABA1726EE4D91.jpg[/IMG]
I just installed one on my 2007 Low Rider , Very easy to install ...
[IMG]local://upfiles/12373/F12E32587D7E447388FABA1726EE4D91.jpg[/IMG]
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Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 185
Likes: 0
RE: Foward Controls Install?
Thanks, Great info... I guess I couldn;t ask for a better answer..... One more question.
Can you leave the mid footpegs on the machine along with the forward controls or do they have to be removed?
Can you leave the mid footpegs on the machine along with the forward controls or do they have to be removed?
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 379
Likes: 0
From: Underworld, PA
RE: Foward Controls Install?
ORIGINAL: Raiderse
Can you leave the mid footpegs on the machine along with the forward controls or do they have to be removed?
Can you leave the mid footpegs on the machine along with the forward controls or do they have to be removed?
Yuppers, great for long rides - gives you foot placement options. Keep the pegs on.