light problem
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Cruiser
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light problem
I have a small problem with my after market headlight that I installed. I am trying to fig out what my ohm resistance would be for a bad connection. All my connection are soldered together, so I am leaning towards a bad headlight. But can't call foul until I know it's not wiring.
Making me think now, Would zero resistance be perfect?
Making me think now, Would zero resistance be perfect?
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Joined: Jan 2007
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From: NorNev
RE: light problem
I'm kinda stupid when it comes to this but I just put it on the setting with the audible sound for continuity. It makes it a little easier than trying to read the meter when your tied up making connections. Zero or near zero is what you are looking for. Make sure you have no power on the circuit well ohm readings. Also check for shorts to other wires or the light fixture.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
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From: Ogden, UT
RE: light problem
Zero resistance is a dead short or connection with no resistance in it, i.e. NO headlight.
If you are trying to read through the wiring connected to the headlight, you should have high resistance, since it is resistance that makes the element burn to give light.
Even copper wire has some resistance per foot based on the gauge.
Reading a value for resistance is a good thing, it tells you there is something there. You just have to know what it should be for what you are testing. SorryI don't have that data for you though, it would vary by type of circuit you are testing.
If you are trying to read through the wiring connected to the headlight, you should have high resistance, since it is resistance that makes the element burn to give light.
Even copper wire has some resistance per foot based on the gauge.
Reading a value for resistance is a good thing, it tells you there is something there. You just have to know what it should be for what you are testing. SorryI don't have that data for you though, it would vary by type of circuit you are testing.
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From:
RE: light problem
Yes, 0 resistance is perfect. 0.1-0.3 is also an acceptable range. This would be measured across the soldered connection (one probe on one side of the solder joint,one probe on the other). If you are measuring across the headlight element, the ohm reading will be significantly higher, possibly 100's. As long as the headlight shows resistance across it the element is not burned out.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 6,642
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From: Ogden, UT
RE: light problem
0 resistance is NOT perfect, it is the absence of resistance. If you have 0 resistance you have nothing in the circuit. The only time 0 is perfect is when testing the leads on the meter itself.
0.1 - 0.3 is acceptable for what? Unless you know what the value should be for what you are testing the only thing an ohm meter will tell you for sureiswhether you have continuity.
0.1 - 0.3 is acceptable for what? Unless you know what the value should be for what you are testing the only thing an ohm meter will tell you for sureiswhether you have continuity.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,289
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From: Beautiful Downtown Burbank
RE: light problem
If you read zero across the terminals of the headlight, which is highly unlikely, it means a dead short on the unit itself.
If the reading in 1k or so, the light is good. If it reads in megs or infinity, its blown.
I wouldnt waste my time doing resistance right now. check the voltage on the low and high beam wires first.
Make sure you have the meter connected to a good ground. If you have 12 volts or more, you got it right. If not, check your connections.
If that shows good, then check the resistance on your ground wire. Connect the probe at the connection to the headlight, and the other to a good frame ground. If it shows zero, then you got that right too. If not, then youre probably asking the headlight bucket to be a ground for you, and thats asking for trouble. Find a better ground.
If all this turns out to be a waste of time and its all good, replace the bulb.
If the reading in 1k or so, the light is good. If it reads in megs or infinity, its blown.
I wouldnt waste my time doing resistance right now. check the voltage on the low and high beam wires first.
Make sure you have the meter connected to a good ground. If you have 12 volts or more, you got it right. If not, check your connections.
If that shows good, then check the resistance on your ground wire. Connect the probe at the connection to the headlight, and the other to a good frame ground. If it shows zero, then you got that right too. If not, then youre probably asking the headlight bucket to be a ground for you, and thats asking for trouble. Find a better ground.
If all this turns out to be a waste of time and its all good, replace the bulb.
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Cruiser
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RE: light problem
It was my dumbbutt that hooked it up. Nothing was marked on new headlight. It was just making feed back which made it work, but came on low. So basicly I had a wrong connection or reverse flow of 12 volt. Right on high, but wrong on low, so it was really low.
I can say that I can make a good solder connection[:@]
[&o]
I can say that I can make a good solder connection[:@]
[&o]
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