I went with the poly from J-P because the rubber bushings had way too much flex to the point the 18 in apes felt loose. I also put in longer allen head bolts.....

 

HOckey you need to replace as i do...

 

i'm the only guy who likes the rubber bushings...lol!

 

I'm taking it to the stealer today

 

I'm with js on the rubber bushings. They really do take out a lot of vibration. Most of the real problems happen when you add 4" or more risers, or adding mini apes above those. The rubber bushings just cant get the job done, and you need to compromise.
My compromise was to leave the stock bars on and use the 4" risers with rubber bushings. They were a bitc# to get straight and tight, but it works for me.
It your having a problem with the bars being crooked, but they feel secure, loosen the riser bolts, adjust the bars back to straight, and crank the bolts down, but crank them evenly.
Dont torque one to spec then go after the other. Take em both down a bit at a time. Starting at around 20 lbs first. I took mine to 50 lbs before they felt right.

 

my contention exactly, kk6pg ....almost got into a terrible accident because of poly bushings!

 

OK, I gotta ask, how can the type of bushing almost get you into an accident?

 

Poly bushings highly recommended with taller risers +/or apes.

As far as crooked bars (and most are if you check out the dealer showrooms!), make sure riser bolts are tightened to spec, then loosen the top clamp bolts just enough to be able to move the bars slightly, crank the bars over to straight position with wheel full over to lock, and hold it their while tightening clamp bolts alternating side to side. An extra set of hands helps, but can be done alone with some contortion and using your shoulder/upper arm on the closest bar end. Worked like a charm for me.