fall away test
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Banned
Joined: Dec 2007
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Remove your clutch cable, it is pretty stiff and tends to want to straighten out to a relaxed position. Check all the wiring from the frame to the triple clamps and make sure there free. Does the front end turn smoothly? Bearings good? How did you determine that the frame is level?
i checked the levelness with a carpenters level
Road Master
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From: The wild, wild, west.
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Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Palm Harbor fl.
also you used the level on the brake disc? If not make sure the brake disc is perfectly level (perpendicular) to ground while the front fork is straight ...
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: From Long Island, now in So. Cal
Here's a few things; I did mine a couple of years ago when I was putting things back together and I think I may have had the whole clutch assembly off. With the brake master on the right and the caliper on the left balances the assembly out. I also had the upper triple clamp loose so that I could adjust the nut below the clamp. Follow the manual and I would also mark where it falls off to the left and right then the mid point between those would be your center.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Palm Harbor fl.
you level from the brake disc and you really should use an angle finder (cheap at home deopot,lowes etc.) to be sure the angle is exactly 90º.
Tourer
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 319
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From: Ventura, Ca.
fall away
you have to remove cables from bars before doing test. mine was loose per the manual and don't think i've talked to anyone who's wasn't.
anyhow, remove brake and clutch cable (they influence the forks) then test. i assume you have the specs or wouldn't be doing the test
anyhow, remove brake and clutch cable (they influence the forks) then test. i assume you have the specs or wouldn't be doing the test
Tourer
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 265
Likes: 10
From: Northern Wisconsin
The balance point does not *have* to be in the center, it can be anywhere.
You're just checking the difference between the fall away point going to the left and the fall away point going to the right. Always start the swing from the fork stop.
If you're running a wide glide or FLH/T front end, check the top nut torque first. They tend to be undertorqued. My spec is 100ftlb to ward off the front end clunks.
If you need to torque it, take the nut off, flatten out the lockplate or replace it.
Put a thin coat of valve grinding compound under the lock plate and a thin coat of grease on the underside of the nut.. this will keep the anchor tab from getting ripped off as you torque the nut.
Hogdoctor
You're just checking the difference between the fall away point going to the left and the fall away point going to the right. Always start the swing from the fork stop.
If you're running a wide glide or FLH/T front end, check the top nut torque first. They tend to be undertorqued. My spec is 100ftlb to ward off the front end clunks.
If you need to torque it, take the nut off, flatten out the lockplate or replace it.
Put a thin coat of valve grinding compound under the lock plate and a thin coat of grease on the underside of the nut.. this will keep the anchor tab from getting ripped off as you torque the nut.
Hogdoctor
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Banned
Joined: Dec 2007
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The balance point does not *have* to be in the center, it can be anywhere.
You're just checking the difference between the fall away point going to the left and the fall away point going to the right. Always start the swing from the fork stop.
If you're running a wide glide or FLH/T front end, check the top nut torque first. They tend to be undertorqued. My spec is 100ftlb to ward off the front end clunks.
If you need to torque it, take the nut off, flatten out the lockplate or replace it.
Put a thin coat of valve grinding compound under the lock plate and a thin coat of grease on the underside of the nut.. this will keep the anchor tab from getting ripped off as you torque the nut.
Hogdoctor
You're just checking the difference between the fall away point going to the left and the fall away point going to the right. Always start the swing from the fork stop.
If you're running a wide glide or FLH/T front end, check the top nut torque first. They tend to be undertorqued. My spec is 100ftlb to ward off the front end clunks.
If you need to torque it, take the nut off, flatten out the lockplate or replace it.
Put a thin coat of valve grinding compound under the lock plate and a thin coat of grease on the underside of the nut.. this will keep the anchor tab from getting ripped off as you torque the nut.
Hogdoctor