Electrical Problems
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Club Member
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Knoxville, Tn
Electrical Problems
Just to let you guys know, the local dealer just called and said my bike was ready to go. It has had a short in the system that kept blowing the aux fuse (15amp) along with no turn signals, no brake light, and no speedometer. It turned out to be pinched AND broken wires in the L/H switch housing, where the horn, lights, and t/s are located. Took them 3 hours to find it and about an 1 hour to fix. Total damages come to about $350.00. Ouch...Just thought you guys might like to know so if yours has a problem you can check this first, before being bled.
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Club Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,192
Likes: 168
From: Knoxville, Tn
Electrical Problem
The bike is not under warranty. My old indy installed the new switch housings almost a year ago. He was a parts salesman at the local dealer and worked on bikes on the side. He has moved on to Arizona. Labor rate at the dealer is 80 bucks an hour. I would guess they had to trace all the wires that connected to that particular fuse. I know other folks on this forum have had the same problem. Seems to be pretty common with a switch housing change or a handlebar swap.
Last edited by dyna rider; Oct 8, 2008 at 05:24 PM. Reason: add info
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Road Master
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Peoria, AZ
3 hours isn't that bad. Took me 6 for an old shovel headlight! Electrical problems are a b- sometimes and I consider myself "trained" since I'm a month from grad + early model til Dec (plus I had an electrically technical rate for 12 years out of 20 in the Nav). I feel for you on the $350 bill, but it WILL cost you when you have it done for you. Thank you for not calling them "stealers" since I will be working for one in a few months.
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Joined: Oct 2008
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I found the problem!
I couldn’t wait for the special order schematics/service manual that is due next week. I traced the wires the old fashioned way, by DVM (Digital Volt Meter) and found the problem. It was no pinched wires, no blown fuse, but the ignition switch apparently cannot take much of a thump without breaking one of the contact points. Harley has a great color coded wiring scheme and if you have the “no turn signals, no horn, and no brake lights” scenario then check the hot side of the accessory fuse that powers those components. The fuse is in the bottom second to last column as you face the fuse panel. Take a DVM or analog volt meter and see if your hot side – left side of the fuse with a red with blue strip wire feeding it - shows 12V’s with the ignition turned on. If you don’t have power there, you probably have a bad ignition switch. This is on my 2008 Dyna Low Rider.
I couldn’t wait for the special order schematics/service manual that is due next week. I traced the wires the old fashioned way, by DVM (Digital Volt Meter) and found the problem. It was no pinched wires, no blown fuse, but the ignition switch apparently cannot take much of a thump without breaking one of the contact points. Harley has a great color coded wiring scheme and if you have the “no turn signals, no horn, and no brake lights” scenario then check the hot side of the accessory fuse that powers those components. The fuse is in the bottom second to last column as you face the fuse panel. Take a DVM or analog volt meter and see if your hot side – left side of the fuse with a red with blue strip wire feeding it - shows 12V’s with the ignition turned on. If you don’t have power there, you probably have a bad ignition switch. This is on my 2008 Dyna Low Rider.
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