I was riding in a funeral procession on Friday when i noticed my flashers would not work. i though it may of been a fuse but when i got home and checked, all fuses were good. so i got to checking and found out my break light was not working. horn also not working. the head light both high and low work and the ignition works. all of the running lights work to. i know for sure that they had been working before so i am looking through my service manual but its not jumping out at me. does anybody have any ideas?

2011 48

 

Looking at my '09 HD drawings which should be similar if not the same, it looks like the flashers, brakes and horn are on the same 15A "Accessory" circuit, separate from the 15A "Lights" circuit that feeds the headlamps and taillamps.

In the past I've found fuses that look good but proved to be open when tested for continuity, so check the Accessory fuse via this method just to make sure.

If it's good, then you need to check each separate circuit that's not working...start by following wires from the grip switches to each connector along the harness, disconnect it, then turn on the power and check for supply voltage at the source side. If voltage is there then the problem exists up the circuit at the wiring to the switch or at the switch itself. You can then reconnect and check output at the switch to the taillights and if voltage/signal exists exiting the switch then the problem exists between the switch and the taillights. It's a matter of the old process of elimination so hopefully you'll find the culprit without spending too much time and effort. If anything, this problem will help you to become more intimate with your Sporty, if that doesn't sound too ghey, LOL. Let us know what you find, best wishes.

=8^)

 

Thanks D B. i swapped the fuse but that didn't change anything

I guess i will have to dive in my first day off. Would my battery being low cause this kinda problem? it has been sitting awhale and seemed kinda weak when i started it but who knows....

 

very weird... I blew that fuse with the same consequences as you described. an emergency stop on my bike (cage did a u-turn right in front of me) with both brakes, the horn, shifting down and turn signals at the same time blew my fuse (that plus the horn had a short!)- if its not your fuse, it must be something in the wiring around that fuse. sounds way too much like the fuse!

 

grover, might you have access to a tool called a "Power Probe?" It's a wonderful tool for testing and analyzing electrical problems.



With it you use the 12v power from your bike [or whatever 12v+ powered vehicle you are troubleshooting] to energize the Power Probe which you then use to power and test each circuit individually, either directly by piercing the insulation of each circuit/wire or through a connector while separated from the factory harness. You connect the probe's ground clamp to earth ground and off you go.

First off, do you have a Service manual for your bike? If not I highly recommend buying one so you can then use the wiring schematics within it to locate and identify the correct and corresponding wires to avoid damaging surrounding non relevent circuits.

When you can identify your specific wiring I'd start with checking the power at the 15A Accessory in the fuse panel to see if there's power coming in/out. If not there's an issue with the fuse panel or the wiring to the fuse panel. If yes then locate the connector on your main harness that sends signal to your brake lights and rear flashers, probably under the seat near the fuel tank and disconnect it/them. Use the Power Probe to send power through the connector [the side of the connection that comes FROM the rear lights] to each individual wire other than ground [if you do mistakedly send power to ground it will trip the circuit breaker on the Power Probe which is then easily reset, no biggie] and watch to see if the lights energize. You should have a signal for running lights [always on when the bike is powered up], one for brake, and one for directional/flasher. If each of these circuits work individually after being powered by the Power Probe then the problem is upstream of the connector; if not, it's between that connector and the fixture[s]. Now work your way up to the hand controls and find the first connector in the wire harness downstream and disconnect it/them. Once again use the Power Probe to send a 12v + signal to each lighting circuit through the connector [the harness side] and observe your lights; if they work as designed the problem is in your hand control[s] or the wiring between them and their connector[s]; if not, the problem exists between the fartherest rear connector and the connector that the switches attach to. If so, test each circuit for continuity; the one that doesn't have continuity will be the problem circuit/wire. Repair via solder/shrinktube splice. Next locate the horn circuit on the outbound main harness connector of the left grip switch and energize the circuit; if the horn is silent disconnect the horn from the harness and power it with the Power Probe. If it works the problem is in the left grip switch or it's wiring to the connector; if it doesn't, the horn is bad and needs replacement. I'm not sure if this is relevent but there is also a rear brake switch that also resides on the Accessory circuit which you should also check while you're at it...'not sure of it's location.

One thing I might add is that all too many times electrical problems are due to a simple bad ground, so check every ground you can find for corrossion and looseness while you're looking at all the rest.

Have fun!

=8^)

 

Thank you sir. i do have a service book. i bought it when i did my tank lift, wire tuck, coil move. i wish i lived close to someone that i could watch and learn from. the guy that passed away was my grandad and he always said you learn more by looking and listening than you do by talking. now it seems that is how i learn anything. he cursed me

 

Hey 'grove, sorry to hear about your Grandpappy's passing...'lot's of iron in those words he spoke to you, so remember and teach others the same way...if you do you'll go far and become well respected by your peers and always in demand from your underlings.

You know, and I almost hate to say this, but there seems to be a disproportionate number of problems, mostly electrical in nature that surface here, from tank lifts, wire tucks and coil relocations. And despite the fact that these problems far outnumber the reported electrical problems of stock bikes with the exception of damage due to drops or hellbent ex girlfriends with a pair of wire cutters, they're still undertaken.

I personally don't care how others wish to modify or change this or that, to each his/her own. I just wish that people would use more forethought before they jump into things, and think more about function instead of fashion, so they might save themselves some headache down the road...but eh, what do I know, LOL.

That said, 'looks like you're gonna' to have to go over all the wiring related to your tank lift/wire tuck also and hopefully you can pinpoint your problem[s] and get things resolved in as little time and as painlessly as possible. Positive vibes sent your way.

=8^)

 

Did you ever find a solution for this? I'm having similar issues on my 2013 48. My accessory fuse is blowing when I put the bike in gear. I replaced the fuse and everything was fine, but as soon as I kicked it into gear again the fuse blew.

 

I solved all my problems by sodering all my wires. I took a few hours but it is what i should of done from the start.

 

I noticed on the nightster i got to weeks ago when i took the batt cover off to install a solo bag i seen the fuse junction was bleeding from corrosion so i removed all the 15 amp fuses and the relays and wire brushed the relays off and put new fuses in with dio grease. So it dont hurt to check everyrhing.