When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
I tried filling the filter part way once what a mess. So it rattles a bit till filter full.Sure I spose you might get a little wear over a course of 100k miles and 30 or 40 times of filter dry but theres still a coat of oil in cylinders. After the mess once that was enough for me
I have never put oil in a new filter either, and I believe that if this was a real problem, that the service manual would tell you to do it when changing the filter - and it does not say anything.
I posted earlier that I had never put oil in a new filter and it seems I'm not alone. However, after I posted, I checked service manual for my 05' Dyna and it said nothing about pre-filling the filter like was stated above.
Seems to me this 'cavitation' thing would happen far more often since so many people *don't* fill the filter first, and since this 'cavitation' thing *doesn't* seem to be happening much, if at all, it kinda proves the point that filling the filter isn't necessary.
I would think his oil pressure light would light up if his oil system was cavitated.Sounds like either he put the oil in the wrong hole, or the dealer is full of crap !
"However I would like 'tech23' to 'splain it to me, exactly why prefilling the filter is necessary ?" The filter can take up to 3/4 of a quart capacity (how much I put in my filters prior to install) and when the pump forces the oil into the filter, it "soaks" into it before going to where you need it. If you don't have that 3/4 quart in the filter, that's that much longer critical areas do not receive much needed oil during high engine stress like start-ups esp. on a new bike. Manuals don't always say what they need to: just like it doesn't tell you to remove the carbon prior to pressing the guides out on a Panhead and, on my '01 XL1200c, how I have to close off my drain hose with oil running through it to prevent cavitation of the air in the pump which once again causes a delay in oil getting to where you need it. That's in a HD service buletin; been getting those? I am willing to bet those rascally "stealers" had to fix some top end problem caused by an improper oil change performed when the engine had to start up without lubrication to the upper end because the oil pump was sucking air instead of oil which pretty much makes the whole "squeeze" effect to create pump oil pressure worthless (that's called pump cavitation). There may be some "oil in the cylinders" but what's going to the tappets: air. I like how some schmuck hosed up an oil change and it's the DEALERS fault and they're liars to boot!
I have never put oil in a new filter either, and I believe that if this was a real problem, that the service manual would tell you to do it when changing the filter - and it does not say anything.
Agreed. The shop manual does not say a word about pre-filling the filter.
However... after reading this, I might start doing it anyway. Can't hurt.
"However I would like 'tech23' to 'splain it to me, exactly why prefilling the filter is necessary ?" The filter can take up to 3/4 of a quart capacity (how much I put in my filters prior to install) and when the pump forces the oil into the filter, it "soaks" into it before going to where you need it. If you don't have that 3/4 quart in the filter, that's that much longer critical areas do not receive much needed oil during high engine stress like start-ups esp. on a new bike. Manuals don't always say what they need to: just like it doesn't tell you to remove the carbon prior to pressing the guides out on a Panhead and, on my '01 XL1200c, how I have to close off my drain hose with oil running through it to prevent cavitation of the air in the pump which once again causes a delay in oil getting to where you need it. That's in a HD service buletin; been getting those? I am willing to bet those rascally "stealers" had to fix some top end problem caused by an improper oil change performed when the engine had to start up without lubrication to the upper end because the oil pump was sucking air instead of oil which pretty much makes the whole "squeeze" effect to create pump oil pressure worthless (that's called pump cavitation). There may be some "oil in the cylinders" but what's going to the tappets: air. I like how some schmuck hosed up an oil change and it's the DEALERS fault and they're liars to boot!
So we're talking milliseconds here then huh? Because the oil in your filter is not going to move until the oil pumped from the pan comes in contact with it. So have you measured that so called 'soak' time the oil takes as it languishes in your filter? A liquid is not going to wait around much of anywhere at 35psi... liquids are not compressable. No I don't get HD service bulletins.... but I've been doing my own maintenance for 40 years.
Do I think it might help a little, to wet the interior of the oil filter? Maybe. To fill it, no.
I can see something downstream of the pump, causing a block and not allowing the pump to draw oil in from the pan, thereby causing the pump to run in a 'cavitation' mode... But I would think your oil pressure light would stay on then...
... no burning bushes here, just my opinion, flavored by experience and time.
..... Manuals don't always say what they need to: just like it doesn't tell you to remove the carbon prior to pressing the guides out on a Panhead and......
This is not an apples to apples comparison.
A common user maintained item like changing an oil filter and pressing guides out of a panhead are 2 totally different levels of "service". One is often done by a novice while the other is done by someone with significant experience.
The manual goes to the trouble of telling you to coat the gasket with oil, and to hand tighten the filter, don't use a wrench. I would think that they would add the line in bold letters that says:
"Prime the filter with 0.75 US qt before installation - failure to do so might lead to possible injury or even death."
This does not sound like it has anything to do with primeing or not primeing the filter, the fact that some of you are actually filling a horizontel filter that was never intended to be primed and getting it back on with anything left in it is pretty impresive. Sounds like a weak oil pump that failed to prime properly, and as far as soaking your filter media pull the plug wires and turn the motor over a hand full of times if your pump is working correctly that should put plenty of oil in your filter.
The filter does not "suck" oil into it. Although I don't know the exact design of the oil routing on the twin-cam, I'll bet it's like most others. The pump, is a positive displacement pump, of which you don't have to prime.
*just confirmed in my service manual - the filter is 'pressurized' by the pump, and not 'pulled through' by the pump. - just like every other mainstream engine oiling system.
The pump should be pulling straight from the reservoir/pan, through the filter, circulate through the engine and return to the reservoir/pan. (simplified version) (it is still a dry sump system, hence more complicated-read your SM)
I also, have never prefilled any oil filter before installing it - on any vehicle, in my 40 years of changing oil.
Really not necessary to prefill your filter - you're not doing anything but adding oil to the system, and actually you may be overfilling if you don't take into consideration the oil you are adding to the filter.
However I would like 'tech23' to 'splain it to me, exactly why prefilling the filter is necessary ?
Again - original poster - What event happened that caused your buddy to take the bike in after the oil change?
I have witnessed a few twin cam oil changes done with a dry oil filter, as well as my first oil change. It took quite some time for the oil pressure light to go out and the clacking to quiet down too, just like a car would do. Now pre-filling an oil filter is not rocket science, neither is screwing the filter on quickly to prevent spillage. It's kind of like indexing spark plugs....may not help,.... but certainly can't hurt either. Using the word necessary was wrong,....recommended would be better. You certainly can put the filter on dry, and like I said it's your choice, and the service manual does not say you must pre-fill the filter. I never said the original posters alleged lubrication problems stemmed from an oil change done with a dry filter. When I change the oil in mine, the oil pressure light goes out immediately with no lack of oil pressure noises. I pre measure the oil so I know how much oil needs to be added to the crankcase after the oil filter has been filled and have never overfilled the crankcase. If I am not mistaken the oil filter when full and saturated holds about 1/2 quart of oil.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.