Maximum HP and torque?
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 461
Likes: 0
From: Arvada, CO
Once you go the forced-induction route you can get into the bigger numbers. You will put out way more torque with the forced induction to give you the jump off the line, and if everything is built to work together it will only accelerate from there instead of being somewhat slow through the rpm range and dying off in the mid-high end area which is usually common for the HD motors typically found on the roads.
Check out the video link, this guy is pulling 200+hp on a boosted Dyna, w/o NOS -
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rXv_kG-hOGY
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
From: Spain
Check out the video link, this guy is pulling 200+hp on a boosted Dyna, w/o NOS -
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rXv_kG-hOGY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rXv_kG-hOGY
BTW, URL of the bike-modders : http://www.atp-hd.com/
Look at their recommended mods for sustaining their turbo:
1. Maximum of 9:1 compression forged piston or high altitude use 10:1.
2. O-ring installation on top of bore & copper headgasket.
3. Stainless valves, porting and high quality valve springs.
4. Cam change to high lift low duration.
5. Ignition change to 30 degrees maximum advance.
6. Use Kendall GT-1 20w50 oil. (Change oil every 2,000 miles).
7. For application where high boost levels are needed you need to use high octane fuel or booster.
I don't think you may get all this by 5000$, anyway, the question was about max hp and torque... so yes, you can get 200hp...
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 461
Likes: 0
From: Arvada, CO
Exactly, there is a lot of work into going forced induction. The stock Twin Cam 88s and 96s will handle 5-6psi of boost for long periods of time. The key to any longevity of a motor, N/A or Forced Induction is proper maintenence. Once you go above 8psi of boost you are on thin ice with the stock internals and that is why they need to swap out for forged pistons.
You could easily build a turbo system for under $5000 as long as you do the research and understand how it all needs to flow together. If you wanted to keep the stock bore you could call up one of the piston manufacturers and have a set made to accomodate the 9:1 Comp ratio needed (You will need the head cc size to do this also). If you stuck with the stock bore you could acheive around 110-115HP on a turbo setup, do the obvious maintenance, get it tuned correctly, and the motor would likely run longer than a stock Twin Cam off the showroom floor.
For $5000 on an all motor build, you could still pull into the 110-115hp range if you piece the parts together right and have it tuned...but when asking about Max Hp and Torque, its time to look beyond just a bigger bore kit and if you truly want the most for your money forced induction yields greater results.
If you wanted to throw $5000 at the motor for performance, then call Trask and talk to them about one of their systems, its spendy IMO but its business. You could always talk to the guys at Headquarters for a motor build and they would gladly help too.
You could easily build a turbo system for under $5000 as long as you do the research and understand how it all needs to flow together. If you wanted to keep the stock bore you could call up one of the piston manufacturers and have a set made to accomodate the 9:1 Comp ratio needed (You will need the head cc size to do this also). If you stuck with the stock bore you could acheive around 110-115HP on a turbo setup, do the obvious maintenance, get it tuned correctly, and the motor would likely run longer than a stock Twin Cam off the showroom floor.
For $5000 on an all motor build, you could still pull into the 110-115hp range if you piece the parts together right and have it tuned...but when asking about Max Hp and Torque, its time to look beyond just a bigger bore kit and if you truly want the most for your money forced induction yields greater results.
If you wanted to throw $5000 at the motor for performance, then call Trask and talk to them about one of their systems, its spendy IMO but its business. You could always talk to the guys at Headquarters for a motor build and they would gladly help too.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,541
Likes: 1
From: Nuevo México, Los Estados Unidos de América
...wow, you all let this topic go on a long time...
The answer is simple: no.
No, you cannot make those kinds of numbers for that price. You also can't ever make those kinds of numbers reliably on a long-stroke, low-rev engine. The engine is simply tearing itself apart doing it. Most BIG inch engines, if you notice, stop coming with a warranty over about 124", and those still don't make that kind of power.
Myself, I wouldn't increase the stroke at all on a TC96. I'd increase the bore, that means 107ci" or so max. With good parts, like a GMR 107" kit, but there are others, and you could go more aggressive, you can make 115+/115+ and still have a reliable bike.
Now you can do whatever you want. I'm sure you could bore and stroke the hell out of your bike, put a huge throttle body, massive injectors, radical cam, and rev. it up to 12,000 rpm for a few min on a dyno and make some impressive numbers to show your buds before your engine blew up. Once you start getting these engine over 1hp per cubic inch, you are shortening their life allot, and once you get them much over 110" or so as well... so you can see the limites.
Simple Answer: No.
The answer is simple: no.
No, you cannot make those kinds of numbers for that price. You also can't ever make those kinds of numbers reliably on a long-stroke, low-rev engine. The engine is simply tearing itself apart doing it. Most BIG inch engines, if you notice, stop coming with a warranty over about 124", and those still don't make that kind of power.
Myself, I wouldn't increase the stroke at all on a TC96. I'd increase the bore, that means 107ci" or so max. With good parts, like a GMR 107" kit, but there are others, and you could go more aggressive, you can make 115+/115+ and still have a reliable bike.
Now you can do whatever you want. I'm sure you could bore and stroke the hell out of your bike, put a huge throttle body, massive injectors, radical cam, and rev. it up to 12,000 rpm for a few min on a dyno and make some impressive numbers to show your buds before your engine blew up. Once you start getting these engine over 1hp per cubic inch, you are shortening their life allot, and once you get them much over 110" or so as well... so you can see the limites.
Simple Answer: No.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
I was checking out his tires. He's got a lot of unused rubber at the edges. Maybe I'll just invite him for a ride in the canyons next spring after the sand is gone. I can ride the hell out of my Dyna in the twisties.
For my winter bike project, for now, I'd like to do a Stage1, upgrade the suspension and tires, and get a new seat.
For my winter bike project, for now, I'd like to do a Stage1, upgrade the suspension and tires, and get a new seat.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,919
Likes: 23
From: Seattle, WA
When looking at engine builds, I've often wondered why stroking is resorted to so quickly. In the Screamin' Eagle catalog, in the catalog description of big bore jugs (when you get beyond the 95"/103" jugs) they almost all say you need to get the longer stroke crankshaft kit.
I've often wondered why builders don't recommend 'de-stroking' the motors (except for the fact that no one wants their displacement number to go down) ... depends on the application I suppose, but for higher rev use it seems it would make sense.
R/
Priest
I've often wondered why builders don't recommend 'de-stroking' the motors (except for the fact that no one wants their displacement number to go down) ... depends on the application I suppose, but for higher rev use it seems it would make sense.
R/
Priest
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,541
Likes: 1
From: Nuevo México, Los Estados Unidos de América
When looking at engine builds, I've often wondered why stroking is resorted to so quickly. In the Screamin' Eagle catalog, in the catalog description of big bore jugs (when you get beyond the 95"/103" jugs) they almost all say you need to get the longer stroke crankshaft kit.
I've often wondered why builders don't recommend 'de-stroking' the motors (except for the fact that no one wants their displacement number to go down) ... depends on the application I suppose, but for higher rev use it seems it would make sense.
R/
Priest
I've often wondered why builders don't recommend 'de-stroking' the motors (except for the fact that no one wants their displacement number to go down) ... depends on the application I suppose, but for higher rev use it seems it would make sense.
R/
Priest
That's why with a TC 96 I'd recommend no larger than a 107" build, that maintains stock stroke, or from a TC 88 a 98" build with a stock stroke. The stock bore on the TC 96, with maybe an oil cooler to maintain temp control, is supposed to be able to safely rev up to almost 9000rpm with just a little work.
If you could get your power band up from 3-5k to 5-7k rpm, you could also then gear the bike down too, and go more "go" from the power you're already making.
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Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 153
Likes: 3
I kinda like the original idea of knocking his bike over and stabbing him. As long as you do it with no witnesses or with really good friends......uh oh....I've said too much.......
So what if his bike is faster, it's a Yamaha and you're on a real bike.
So what if his bike is faster, it's a Yamaha and you're on a real bike.
Club Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 14,564
Likes: 9,223
From: the 50s & the 60s
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********************
with a TC 96 I'd recommend no larger than a 107" build, that maintains stock stroke,
or from a TC 88 a 98" build with a stock stroke.
The stock bore on the TC 96, with maybe an oil cooler to maintain temp control,
is supposed to be able to safely rev up to almost 9000rpm with just a little work.
***********************
********************
with a TC 96 I'd recommend no larger than a 107" build, that maintains stock stroke,
or from a TC 88 a 98" build with a stock stroke.
The stock bore on the TC 96, with maybe an oil cooler to maintain temp control,
is supposed to be able to safely rev up to almost 9000rpm with just a little work.
***********************
I like my long stroke motor just fine with only 116 HP at 5500 RPM.
And,
I'd would like to hear more about this 9000 RPM FatHead motor.
Got links??
mud