Just wondering if anyone has seriously tested the true track kit for 06' up Dyna, specifically the SB?
CB

 

Unbelievable difference noted on the fatbob. Happier than I thought I would be.

 

24 Deg. and snowing, guess I'll have to wait to try out my installation. Glad I put it on my '08 as I found the mount on the rear loose. Time to check all fasteners! Not the first thing I found needing tightening.

 

I have a 07 WG we installed the true-track. I have noticed a big change in the handling. A lot tghter than expected. Corners great. No more wobble in the turns. CBZ1200N do you live in the Salinas Valley?

 

Below is a post I submitted about my True Track experience along with install tips back in December and the results still stand. Doesn't really have to be Street Bob specific since the chassis' are completely the same in regards to the Dyna's and the experience in regards to the 'rear steer' are inherent to them all.



"Put my True Track on 4 days ago. Just like others have said about their installs, the front is very easy and the back is more of a challenge. This job can be done by yourself which is the way I did it. Seems any of the Dynas 06 and newer have to reverse the direction of the lateral bolts on the rear motor mount so that it can mount to the new bracket which was about the most fun ever. Starting the threads into the bracket was about the same amount of fun but seemed to happen pretty quick for me. There is just no room to work in there. I removed one of my mufflers as well to assist in some type of easier access.

I for one hate buying things that don't make a change and aren't noticeable and I'm guilty of doing my share. This is not one of those items. Todays riding produced no sway/mis-tracking/wobble whatever you want to call it and I pushed it beyond where I use to feel it. I am very happy with it and would recommend it to anyone experiencing the same situation. The only thing that has made it probably more dangerous, is that I turn in even harder......but that is so much fun.

Things that come to mind for the install:

Only tools I needed to use were sockets (standard and hexagon) several extensions and universal joint (rear lateral motor mounts) and 3/8 ratchet. I also used a craftsman bike lift and a floor jack. Also a drill bit.....I'll explain that later.

The front - very easy and not much to say. I only used the floor jack for this and the bike was on the kick stand. The jack supported the engine so when removing the two front motor mounts, I was able to keep the motor in the same position for reattaching the new motor mount button head bolts. Nothing else really to say.

The back - different story and the most time consuming but if I did it again for someone else, I'd do it in half the time. The idea of using two jacks came into play here and I'd set it up for the whole job if I did it again. Initially tried to do the rear in the same fasion meaning on the kick stand but I could not remove the lateral rear motor mounts. Removed both rear parallel motor mounts (in direct line with the rear tire) so see if that would help and it didn't....till later. At this point, only the lateral motor mount bolts that needed to be reversed were keeping the motor mount stable. This is the point I added the bike jack to get the bike level which made those bolts looser than my best friends sister. Make sure you switch 1 at a time. Once you've got that done, attaching the bracket to those bolts is just about getting lucky to start the threads. Attaching the other mount that is directly in front of the rear tire is easier by doing the following. Use the floor jack to support and manuever the engine so that you can align the holes. Unless you have the rear wheel removed, you can't physically see if the holes are lined up so this is where the drill bit came into place. Jack the engine while pressing in a drill bit that fills the hole and as soon as it slips in farther, you are pretty much lined up. Another trick; remove the heim joint from both brackets (the bolts are already loose) and be sure to keep everything in order. This allows for easy tool use on that rear bracket and once you get it tightened up, just reattach the heim joint and tighten per spec.

Pretty much everything else is self explanatory and hopefully this info comes in handy. Feel free to pm me if you have any other questions or I didn't explain clearly enough."

Dave

 

I ride a 2008 FXDF and I thought it was a great handling bike. You really noticed that big a difference?

 

It is a great handling bike. This just makes it handle better.

 

I guess that's my next buy, I did my shocks and fork springs and my bike handles nice but if it makes it better I'm game.

 

So If I like to lean it like a sport bike which is gonna be harder with the lowerin kit I just put on.......lol, it's worth the buy? How much can you pick one up for? Does Drag sell them?

 

Is anyone using a Sputhe Positrac?