Help! need help adjusting a clutch pack.
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,393
Likes: 8
From: Ohio
bakerm,
It is a standard thread on mine, an '07 six speed. I did mine with the bike in second gear and the wheel on the ground once. I did it on a lift with a friend holding the rear brake once as well. The higher gear you put it in the harder it will be to turn the rear wheel, but 2nd worked for me. You have to break the nut loose before you can do anything with the hex bolt. I used a breaker bar to loosen it, then a socket with a vise grip on it to tighten so I could keep a hex on the hex bolt.
On the cable adjustment, when you turn the adjuster to extend the cable housing, you are taking slack out of the cable. Mine is a standard thread as well.
It is a standard thread on mine, an '07 six speed. I did mine with the bike in second gear and the wheel on the ground once. I did it on a lift with a friend holding the rear brake once as well. The higher gear you put it in the harder it will be to turn the rear wheel, but 2nd worked for me. You have to break the nut loose before you can do anything with the hex bolt. I used a breaker bar to loosen it, then a socket with a vise grip on it to tighten so I could keep a hex on the hex bolt.
On the cable adjustment, when you turn the adjuster to extend the cable housing, you are taking slack out of the cable. Mine is a standard thread as well.
Thread Starter
|
Road Captain
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 643
Likes: 0
From: Sioux Falls, SD
Not having any luck, she doesn't want to break free. my wrenches start to slip when I have the allen socket in, and it spins when good pressure is applied to the nut. Any other ideas?
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,393
Likes: 8
From: Ohio
You can use either one. Some guys have re-used the original rubber o ring with no problem if it is in good shape. If not, just go with the frisbee. I did. I think one of the holes on it is triangle shaped if I remember right. That was the top. It tells you which side towards clutch. Use a little loc tite blue on the torx screws and tighten them down according to your manual. You don't have to kill 'em. Here are the torque specs from my '07 Dyna manual:
72-120 INCH-LBS (6-10 ft-lbs) for jam nut
84-108 INCH-LBS (7-9 ft-lbs) for the cover screws
72-120 INCH-LBS (6-10 ft-lbs) for jam nut
84-108 INCH-LBS (7-9 ft-lbs) for the cover screws
Thread Starter
|
Road Captain
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 643
Likes: 0
From: Sioux Falls, SD
ok I was able to get the clutch adjusted properly
1/4 turn back from where I started to feel resistance". I was able to hold it with a vice clamp and a socket to get it tightened while holding the allen in the same spot.
I've tightened the cable again and played with it a little, but it seems like the clutch is way out on the handle (barely have to squeeze to engage) and I would like it back a little. Any ideas with out taking the clutch apart again?
If I do take the clutch apart again, do I need to tighten, or loosen the pack?
Any help would be appreciated the manual tells you what to do but doesn't explain how that effects the clutch. I think I need experience for that.
1/4 turn back from where I started to feel resistance". I was able to hold it with a vice clamp and a socket to get it tightened while holding the allen in the same spot.
I've tightened the cable again and played with it a little, but it seems like the clutch is way out on the handle (barely have to squeeze to engage) and I would like it back a little. Any ideas with out taking the clutch apart again?
If I do take the clutch apart again, do I need to tighten, or loosen the pack?
Any help would be appreciated the manual tells you what to do but doesn't explain how that effects the clutch. I think I need experience for that.
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,393
Likes: 8
From: Ohio
ok I was able to get the clutch adjusted properly
1/4 turn back from where I started to feel resistance". I was able to hold it with a vice clamp and a socket to get it tightened while holding the allen in the same spot.
I've tightened the cable again and played with it a little, but it seems like the clutch is way out on the handle (barely have to squeeze to engage) and I would like it back a little. Any ideas with out taking the clutch apart again?
If I do take the clutch apart again, do I need to tighten, or loosen the pack?
Any help would be appreciated the manual tells you what to do but doesn't explain how that effects the clutch. I think I need experience for that.
1/4 turn back from where I started to feel resistance". I was able to hold it with a vice clamp and a socket to get it tightened while holding the allen in the same spot.
I've tightened the cable again and played with it a little, but it seems like the clutch is way out on the handle (barely have to squeeze to engage) and I would like it back a little. Any ideas with out taking the clutch apart again?
If I do take the clutch apart again, do I need to tighten, or loosen the pack?
Any help would be appreciated the manual tells you what to do but doesn't explain how that effects the clutch. I think I need experience for that.
As far as the clutchpack goes: If you turn the allen screw further in against the resistance it has the same effect as engaging the clutch, that is to say it will slip. I know because I accidentally adjusted it a half turn IN instead of OUT, locked down the nut, and test rode it. The clutch slipped going up a hill under hard throttle. That being said, you may want to re-adjust it to a 1/2 turn out (instead of the 1/4 you have now) to give you a little more grab, requiring the clutch lever to come in more to engage the clutch.
For the lever, I would go with the nickel gap method and call it good. The clutch lever (and cable) should have no tension on it when not engaged.
For what it is worth, a few guys have mentioned that after having their bike serviced the clutch felt different. My guess is that any slight change on something you muscle memorize like that seems greater than it really is. There is an acceptable zone of adjustment, and from one end of that zone to the other probably varies a lot in terms of "feel".
I hope this makes sense, and please anyone who has something to add or correct on this one, do jump in. If it was me, I would ride it as long as the clutch grabbed and the bike was moving well before the lever came all the way out.
Thread Starter
|
Road Captain
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 643
Likes: 0
From: Sioux Falls, SD
Thanks, I think I will re adjust the cable to the nickle method and go for a short ride and see how the clutch does.
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Verdad Gallardo
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
roy2008
Primary/Transmission/Driveline/Clutch
0
Jul 9, 2011 05:30 PM
adjust, adjusting, adjustment, cable, clutch, fxdwg, glide, harley, instructions, motorcycle, pack, road, shovelhead, softail, touring
