LED Turn signals
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Northwest
So then once I hit upon some based values, I soldered all the components I would use in in the final circuit, in the pre-fab board. Since I had not yet hit upon what might be the ideal resistor value to set the current and therefore brightness, of the turn signals, I installed a 10 turn potentiometer (adjustable resistor, little blue component on the right side) this allowed me to dial in the brightness that I wanted. You then measure the adjustable resistor, and use that value to buy as close to that same value in a fixed resistor.
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From: Northwest
Once I got all those soldered in and working, I knew that I would have to put a 'load' resistor in the circuit, to make the bike's turn signal circuit. I chose just a single big resistor for this, but in the final circuit, this may turn out to be two or three smaller sized (physically) resistors. I figured out what this resistor needed to be, by measuring the current draw used by the stock bulb in the bike. The turn signal filament pulled 2 amps, so I plugged that back through the equation: (voltage / current = resistance) 12/2=6: and, 12*2=24. So I needed close to a 6-ohm resistor that could handle 24 watts. What I used in my mockup is a 8-ohm resistor that can handle 20watts. Works fine, and only 'starts' to warm up after about 45seconds. It can handle much more than being a 'little' warm. The trick with these is mounting them so that they can dissipate that heat without destroying anything else around them. Mind you, below is only my second stage mockup.
Last edited by archergodwin; Mar 15, 2009 at 08:28 PM.
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From: Northwest
To see what the brightness and all looked like on the bike, I took and old 1157 taillight bulb and broke the bulb. I removed the fillaments and soldered wires to the feedthroughs. I then installed that in my turn signal and connect the wires from my mockup board to it. I held it in place with tape.... just to get the feel and idea of how much light was being produced. I did this with the bike running, because the voltage will be at least 2 volts higher than with the bike just sitting there.
This is what is shown in the video, back on page 1.
This is what is shown in the video, back on page 1.
arch - here is a link on LED's.. great effort ure taking and ull be proud of outcome because its orginal design from u.
http://www.oznium.com/prewired-superflux
very bright..
http://www.oznium.com/prewired-superflux
very bright..
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Northwest
arch - here is a link on LED's.. great effort ure taking and ull be proud of outcome because its orginal design from u.
http://www.oznium.com/prewired-superflux
very bright..
http://www.oznium.com/prewired-superflux
very bright..
Thanks! yeah, I know there is other 'stuff' out there, sorta pre made. But you hit it right.... I am enjoying doing this from scratch.
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Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Prague. the Czech Republic
The turn signals are a different matter, because you have to pull similar current for the stock turn circuit to work. The stock turn signal bulbs pull about 2A each. This is where the "equalizers" come in, in the kits that are sold. The new circuit needs a separate load resistor, in parallel with the rest of the circuit.
Last edited by MonteW; Mar 16, 2009 at 08:45 AM.
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I have just finished installation of these http://www.radiantz.com/ Dogeye LED turn lights on my Dyna FXDC 08. To my surprise, NO "load" resistor was needed and the frequency of flashing is the same as with bulbs before. Does anybody know whether there is some "intelligent" turn light control circuit used on FXDC 08?
Very likely those dogeye units pull more current than the ones I am using.
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