Chrome Sliders in process...
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From: PacNW; Beacon of Conservatism in a Sea of Liberals.......AZ Snowbird; Just another Conservative
Fork Tube Caps installed...
Just a couple of pix. Still need to know how to remove the stock stem nut cap so I can install the matching one that came with these tube caps.
(edit) Think I found the answer using my new-learned searching skills. Found a couple of threads saying it simply unscrews. Has a post inside the cap that screws into a threaded hole in the stem nut.
(edit) Think I found the answer using my new-learned searching skills. Found a couple of threads saying it simply unscrews. Has a post inside the cap that screws into a threaded hole in the stem nut.
Last edited by PKellyMc; Apr 24, 2009 at 02:42 AM. Reason: typo; answer found
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From: Passaic County, NJ
Thanks man. very helpful. I was going to really sit down and inspect where I could put in a drain screw. I want to put it on the backside so when the front end is straight forward you can drain them out the back. I dunno. Maybe more of a brake bleeder is the way to go. Push on a piece of 1/4" tubing and let it drain away from the bike. Is fork oil corrosive like dot 4 fluid.
I'm gonna forego the additonal parts (new springs, and ricors) for now and just slap that baby on. As much as I'd like to do it all at once, if I install drain screws I cna easily do it later on.
I'm gonna forego the additonal parts (new springs, and ricors) for now and just slap that baby on. As much as I'd like to do it all at once, if I install drain screws I cna easily do it later on.
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From: PacNW; Beacon of Conservatism in a Sea of Liberals.......AZ Snowbird; Just another Conservative
Pretty sure the fork oil is petro, so not nasty in the same way as DOT-4. Yeah, I was s'prized I hadn't seen those stamped-in bullseyes before today...wish I'd drilled & tapped 'em before I installed mine.
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From: Living in open carry state :D
The stock stem cap just screws off. If it is too tight use a strap wrench to get a better hold of it.
Just a couple of pix. Still need to know how to remove the stock stem nut cap so I can install the matching one that came with these tube caps.
(edit) Think I found the answer using my new-learned searching skills. Found a couple of threads saying it simply unscrews. Has a post inside the cap that screws into a threaded hole in the stem nut.
(edit) Think I found the answer using my new-learned searching skills. Found a couple of threads saying it simply unscrews. Has a post inside the cap that screws into a threaded hole in the stem nut.
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: PacNW; Beacon of Conservatism in a Sea of Liberals.......AZ Snowbird; Just another Conservative
Finished!! Put this thread to bed.
Well, I finally wrapped up the Chrome Lowers mod. The first pic shows the fender mount holes hogged out to bring the fender closer to the tire (needed clearance below the Fork Brace). The bottoms of both holes show the stock hole positions. Second picture looks thru the near side of the fender at the inside of the far mount; the stock nut witness marks are easily seen. The third pic shows the clearance between the Brace and Fender...about two shop-rag thicknesses. Fourth pic shows the finished front end. The last pic shows the Kit's StemNut Cap & ForkTube Caps. Thanks for putting up with my drawn-out mod and long-windedness. 
Someone asked: Yes, I had to do some grinding to the two nuts that back up the top holes. Removed enough stock to allow it to fill the radius curve, but left enough to maintain structural integrity
Someone asked: Yes, I had to do some grinding to the two nuts that back up the top holes. Removed enough stock to allow it to fill the radius curve, but left enough to maintain structural integrity
Last edited by PKellyMc; Apr 24, 2009 at 10:27 PM.
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From: Passaic County, NJ
Looks good man. I'm headin to the store to pick up some necessities for the job such as the 1 3/8 socket and some fork fluid.
Is there everything we need to replace the front end? I did see new fork seals in the box.
When reinstalling the fork seals, is it a good idea to put a layer of fluid on the o.d. of the seal to allow it to slide in smoother?
Is there everything we need to replace the front end? I did see new fork seals in the box.
When reinstalling the fork seals, is it a good idea to put a layer of fluid on the o.d. of the seal to allow it to slide in smoother?
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From: Living in open carry state :D
I always lube up the seals, inside and out, prior to installing. Makes them slide in better also helps prevent a tear.
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From: FL
Thinking about it now, leaving the fender in place should provide all the stabilizing the lowers need 'til you break 'em loose them. Read thru the threads and mentally do the job in your head and you'll be ahead of the game when it comes time to swing a wrench.
Hmmmm, on second thought, with our "stacked bolt" fender mounts, the idea above might result in twisting the mounting ears. Maybe go with the Big A$$ ChannelLocks, heavy rag, and Binford-5000 Ty-Wrap.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...t-sliders.html
Hmmmm, on second thought, with our "stacked bolt" fender mounts, the idea above might result in twisting the mounting ears. Maybe go with the Big A$$ ChannelLocks, heavy rag, and Binford-5000 Ty-Wrap.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...t-sliders.html
I thought about the fender as well, but after i see how much torque I'm having to apply to try to break the 12mm loose i agree that it would twist the fender.
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From: Passaic County, NJ
Yes, leave the front end intact when removing the 12mm allen bolt. In fact, that should be step #1. 
I remember mine was quite snug but a lil a$$ into it and I broke it free. If you need extra torque, apply a piece of pipe to your socket wrench and grip that. The extension will help you brake that bolt free with less force applied.
I remember mine was quite snug but a lil a$$ into it and I broke it free. If you need extra torque, apply a piece of pipe to your socket wrench and grip that. The extension will help you brake that bolt free with less force applied.