Chrome Sliders in process...
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Outstanding HDF Member
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From: PacNW; Beacon of Conservatism in a Sea of Liberals.......AZ Snowbird; Just another Conservative
Chrome Sliders in process...
Here's a few pix I took during the job. After fighting to keep the right slider from turning while I broke the 12mm Damper Tube bolt loose, I came up with a helpful set-up for the left tube; a big-a$$ Channel Lock around a heavy rag wrapped caliper mount, and a Binford-5000 Ty-Wrap...use the right tube to keep all from turning. The 2nd pic shows the 12mm Hex Key (Sears - thanks WS6!) and my "cheater" I used to break loose the left bolt. Fourth pic shows the stock sliders removed, lower bushings, and the PITA 12mm Damper Tube bolts partly threaded where they won't get lost. Last pic shows original slider caps, dust seal (with oil seal retainer clip on it), and the oil seal. I didn't use a seal driver to install the oil seals; took my time and walked them in bit-by-bit using a flat-nose punch and a lite hammer. In a few pix is the near 1/2 gallon of fork oil that drained from the two tubes when I removed the 12mm bolts. Wish I'd had the testicular fortitude to drill & tap the new sliders to facilitate future oil changes. Was AMAZED how filthy the fork oil was after just 10K miles! I used H-D SE Heavy oil to refill; 29-1/2 oz. per tube.
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From: Passaic County, NJ
I'm contemplating taking this on during the week as my kit has been sitting here waiting for me to get a jack. 
You definitely taught me something. Loosen the 12mm bolts first before anything, then jack the bike up and such.
Actually, you probably could have just put the axle back in. That would have stabilized the lowers. If you do it again for whatever reason, you'll know.
You definitely taught me something. Loosen the 12mm bolts first before anything, then jack the bike up and such.
Actually, you probably could have just put the axle back in. That would have stabilized the lowers. If you do it again for whatever reason, you'll know.
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From: PacNW; Beacon of Conservatism in a Sea of Liberals.......AZ Snowbird; Just another Conservative
Do a search on a couple of my recent posts to "Lowers" threads. I posted a few other pix and tips I learned in the process. Should be one or two in the last few days; both have links to other threads I contributed to. Yeah, the trouble with breaking those 12mm Damper bolts loose is you have to remove the axle to get to 'em. Thinking about it now, leaving the fender in place should provide all the stabilizing the lowers need 'til you break 'em loose them. Read thru the threads and mentally do the job in your head and you'll be ahead of the game when it comes time to swing a wrench.
Hmmmm, on second thought, with our "stacked bolt" fender mounts, the idea above might result in twisting the mounting ears. Maybe go with the Big A$$ ChannelLocks, heavy rag, and Binford-5000 Ty-Wrap.
Here's a link to a thread that lists the other links mentioned above...I think my post is #3 in this one....
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...t-sliders.html
Hmmmm, on second thought, with our "stacked bolt" fender mounts, the idea above might result in twisting the mounting ears. Maybe go with the Big A$$ ChannelLocks, heavy rag, and Binford-5000 Ty-Wrap.
Here's a link to a thread that lists the other links mentioned above...I think my post is #3 in this one....
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...t-sliders.html
Last edited by PKellyMc; Apr 20, 2009 at 04:37 AM. Reason: Second thought; added link
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From: PacNW; Beacon of Conservatism in a Sea of Liberals.......AZ Snowbird; Just another Conservative
Another heads-up, Vic. The new DustCaps that come with the kit extend a little further down the top of each Lower than our stock ones. It made for fitting my Brace back on (underneath them) a problem. I'm still rolling the problem around my brain, but I think I'm gonna end up hogging out the fender mount holes vertically about 1/4", so the fender will sit a little lower, closer to the tire. As it is, the SE Brace would be riding the fender HARD to get it in position clear of the DustCaps. Rocking the fender fore/aft to the limit of the slop in the holes helped a little, but not enough to clear the brace.
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From: Living in open carry state :D
I used an allen socket on my ratchet for those 12mm Damper Tube bolts. That way I could hit the ratchet with a hammer to get it to break free. Also do not try to force a socet on to the upper cap nut. I did and it scratched the handlebars. I should have lowered them so the lower tripple tree was only holding the fork.
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From: PacNW; Beacon of Conservatism in a Sea of Liberals.......AZ Snowbird; Just another Conservative
I looked at my local Schucks & PepBoys for a 12mm hex socket. The only one I found was not long enough to reach up inside the left lower to get to the bolt. Even with the L-wrench I got from Sears, the short side wouldn't reach so I used the long side to get to the bolt, and a big combination wrench as a cheater on the short side. Next time, I'll hunt down a suitable length socketed Allen like you used. I s'pose I could just chop the short side of my L-wrench off, and mount it into my own 12mm socket.
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From: Living in open carry state :D
Yep, some have made thier own. I bought a complete set of long ones. I now had to buy a long set of Torx sockets. My right foot peg mount is too loose to mount a heel rest on it and my normal torx socket was too short.
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From: PacNW; Beacon of Conservatism in a Sea of Liberals.......AZ Snowbird; Just another Conservative
I can envision a day when I replace all my Torx with good ol' Allens. I mean, REALLY; Torx, Reed Prince, Roberts, Pozi, etc. Should be a law: +, -, Allen, Hex, and no more!!
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From: Colorado
Yep I cut an L shaped allen and put it in the 12mm socket then put the fender back on to hold the lowers in place and ran it against the steering stops. Worked like a charm. Here's a helpful pic to see what it will look like when you get it apart. Dust cover/dust seal/retaining ring/fork seal.
I used a piece of 2" sch40 PVC 3-4 ft would work for $3-$5) to tap in the seal before I put the assembly back in the trees. And those chrome dust caps go back on tiiigghhhtt. They took some serious whacks with a 2x4 on that same PVC. Good luck and post back if you have any problems.
I used a piece of 2" sch40 PVC 3-4 ft would work for $3-$5) to tap in the seal before I put the assembly back in the trees. And those chrome dust caps go back on tiiigghhhtt. They took some serious whacks with a 2x4 on that same PVC. Good luck and post back if you have any problems.
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From: Passaic County, NJ
Do the oem dust boots (chrome) fit on the new chrome lowers? I looked at the new ones in the kit and they're huge compared to the stock boots. Hate to lose the SE fork brace because of some silly cover.