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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
I had a slight leek at the base of the rear cylinder,it looked like a stain, but if left developed into a puddle. I took the bike to my dealer as its still under warranty and he sorted it, stripped the engine and totaly rebuilt it , did the cranks, all free of charge, runs so smooth my wife was covinced that I'd changed the bike. Starting, never had a problem, let the light go out, hit the button and boom, first time every time, hot or cold,
I took the bike to the dealer Friday to have them check out the leak. Mechanic comes over starts looking at it, cleans the area then starts saying "you got a problem here, big problem." I thought he was joking, I laughed and said I heard some people are just having a new seal installed, he said nope you got a crack in your case. I still thought he was joking. Another service person comes out, back and forth into and out of the dealership. They showed me it and there it was a small crack next to the sensor or what ever it is in the front of the engine. They come out with a camera and take some pics of it. He said best case scenario is that Harley sends a new engine and they will just swap it out. Worst case is that Harley just sends a new case and they have to rebuild the engine. He said it might be down a month if that is the case.
They never told me to stop driving it, it runs fine just has a small crack and leak. He thinks it might have been over torqued. My cousin just got a new Superglide and he has a leak in the same spot but we couldn't see a crack. Anyone with a leak should check the area well.
I have to call the dealer sometime today and they will have more info from Harley on what to do. If they have to rebuild the engine they can do it November, we only get a few months of good riding up here as it is, I'm not going to have my bike down for the best weather.
I took the bike to the dealer Friday to have them check out the leak. Mechanic comes over starts looking at it, cleans the area then starts saying "you got a problem here, big problem." I thought he was joking, I laughed and said I heard some people are just having a new seal installed, he said nope you got a crack in your case. I still thought he was joking. Another service person comes out, back and forth into and out of the dealership. They showed me it and there it was a small crack next to the sensor or what ever it is in the front of the engine. He thinks it might have been over torqued.
Aren't you glad you didn't try to fix it now? They would have blamed you for over-torquing it and causing the crack.
If you're going to ride it, keep an eye on it--and get it in writing from the dealer that the bike is okay to ride like this. The crack could grow since the cases expand and contract quite a bit with the heating and cooling cycles that these engines go through. You could wind up with a "total loss" oiling system and a blown motor.
So what exactly is the engine light for? I was told with each Harley purchase to always make sure the light goes out before you crank the engine. Mine starts just fine everytime.
I know not everything beleives what the dealers say, but what's the deal with the light. Why even have it in the first place if you aren't supposed to check it or wait for it to go out?
It's a check engine light similar to the ones in your car. Like I said earlier you do not have to wait till it goes out to start the bike. I don't know how that silly rumor ever got started but I think all the HD dealers tell everyone that and they are full of crap. The owners manual says just to wait for the lines to be primed but says nothing about waiting till the check engine light goes out or your bike might throw codes, explode, burst into flames or whatever.
It's a check engine light similar to the ones in your car. Like I said earlier you do not have to wait till it goes out to start the bike. I don't know how that silly rumor ever got started but I think all the HD dealers tell everyone that and they are full of crap. The owners manual says just to wait for the lines to be primed but says nothing about waiting till the check engine light goes out or your bike might throw codes, explode, burst into flames or whatever.
On my bike, the light goes out when the fuel pump shuts down its prime cycle, so the light going out is a good indication that the fuel lines are primed.
On a bike that has only been shut down a few minutes, the lines should still be primed and waiting for the pump to complete its cycle should not be necessary.
Aren't you glad you didn't try to fix it now? They would have blamed you for over-torquing it and causing the crack.
If you're going to ride it, keep an eye on it--and get it in writing from the dealer that the bike is okay to ride like this. The crack could grow since the cases expand and contract quite a bit with the heating and cooling cycles that these engines go through. You could wind up with a "total loss" oiling system and a blown motor.
Good point, I'll try to get the dealer to send me something in writing. At first I wasn't that upset, shyt happens and its under warranty. But then I started thinking about it. My numbers wont match (not really a big deal) my tach will be off, what about future issues, how long will I be out of a bike?
What should I do? It didn't even have 900 miles on it.
On my bike, the light goes out when the fuel pump shuts down its prime cycle, so the light going out is a good indication that the fuel lines are primed.
On a bike that has only been shut down a few minutes, the lines should still be primed and waiting for the pump to complete its cycle should not be necessary.
Yep the light goes out about the same time as the fuel pump stops running. I guess it was easier for the dealers to tell people to wait till the light goes out then to tell them to wait till the pump stops making noises. The problem is I think it gave lots of people the idea that it would harm the bike somehow if they didn't wait for that silly light to go out.
It's never neccessary on my bike to wait for the pump to stop before starting it. Even if I haven't rode it for a few days I just flip it to run then hit the start button and it starts right up.
Good point, I'll try to get the dealer to send me something in writing. At first I wasn't that upset, shyt happens and its under warranty. But then I started thinking about it. My numbers wont match (not really a big deal) my tach will be off, what about future issues, how long will I be out of a bike?
What should I do? It didn't even have 900 miles on it.
Your numbers will match. When Harley has to replace an entire engine, they stamp it with your serial number before it ships from the engine plant.
Why would your tach be off with a new engine?
I would think downtime would be the shortest if Harley ships you a new engine. When it comes in all the dealer has to do is replace the complete motor. If Harley ships a new right side case, the dealer is going to have tear down your engine, which will take more time.
If I were you, I'd insist on a new engine, not a replacement case.
Your numbers will match. When Harley has to replace an entire engine, they stamp it with your serial number before it ships from the engine plant.
Why would your tach be off with a new engine?
I would think downtime would be the shortest if Harley ships you a new engine. When it comes in all the dealer has to do is replace the complete motor. If Harley ships a new right side case, the dealer is going to have tear down your engine, which will take more time.
If I were you, I'd insist on a new engine, not a replacement case.
I meant odometer, my bad.
I didn't realize that with the numbering, thanks for the info. I told the dealer when I left Friday that I would rather have a new engine so I wouldn't be down too long. He understands that we only get a couple good months to ride up here but its up to Harley I guess. I'll find out more soon. I hope I don't have to call corporate to complain.
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