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Just went out to start the bike and would not turn the motor over, tried but not enough power or ?? I suspect the batery is bad, it's brand new 09 so shouldn't be a problem but there it is. Anyway, checked the voltage across the battery, 11.48 volts, press the starter button drops down to 3.4 or so. I don't know if that's normal. Checked all the fuzes that I think are in the start circuit all look good. I've been riding every day, yesterday no exception so not like the battery wouldn't be getting a charge.
I know should be covered by warranty called the dealer, they're miles away so even if they pickup it's be a long while.
I would really like to know if it's the battery or possibly something else. I do have a Thundermax but have been running it for months without any problems. I did just change maps this morning but have done that several times with no adverse affect.
Any ideas what I can do to convince myself it is or is not the battery?
I do have an vehicle close by and can try a jump but not sure where / how to make connections, red to red / black to black battery to battery is that OK car to Dyna?
Must be bad MOJO, happened to my 07 this morning as well. Had just ridden in 75 miles the night before. Today it is getting its 10K service and they are doing the battery, if necessary, under warranty.
Pulling the battery and running it down to a local shop, dude there says he can test it for me. Thanks if anyone was figuring an answer, but I hate to wait. Gotta go...
Are you sure you turned off the master switch? That's what I did last year and after 2 hours the batt was dead. It could have been ok but they changed it out for me no charge at the dealer. I go tit to them by boosting it with my car battery-car engine off.
Last edited by maddghost; May 28, 2009 at 05:44 PM.
fine to the car just do not start the car! can fry your ECM if you do... on your battery make sure your conections are all tight, that will create some issues... sounds like the battery is dead man...
At 11.48 volts your battery is dead. A fully charged battery should be at 12.8 volts. I'm beginning to wonder if during the dealer prep these battery cables aren't being tighten properly. Far too many dead batteries on new bikes.
The fact that it's 11.48 doesn't mean it's dead.... that just means it's low. The fact that it drops down to 3.4 when trying to start means that it's dead... nothing left to pull from. But still possibly salvagable with a good charge (not on the bike charge, automatic car charger type charge)
Double check your battery cable's connection to the battery.
The battery needs to be replaced, I had one that would pull down to about 5 volts DC on my OL's Yamaha, tried to charge it several times, and it worked for about a month, then left me stranded at work with no one there to jump it off. Good thing the Yamaha Roadstar is a light bike, cause I don't believe I could push off my Harley. I replaced the battery the next day and did not have another problem with it.
Save yourself a few headaches and have the STEALER replace the battery.
Thanks for the Help / Advice & Some Info in return
OK, here's the deal, it was definitely the battery, bad cell, so won't waste everyone's time with the drivel or drama.
But, the interesting thing is I pulled the battery took it to one dealer and they tested it. Gave me the little slip (attached) and as you can see, says the battery is OK. Now this was the parts guy not one of the mechanics so, maybe didn't have the training. I wouldn't have known either.
Anyway, I had called the dealer where I bought the bike and asked to talk to their service manager. He called me back and makes me read him the numbers off over the phone.
The CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) rating for the battery is 275 A, but the actual as measured by the tester says 419 A, half again higher. This guys "Oh, no, that battery has a bad cell". I had the local dealer pick it up and they did a full system test and replaced the battery for FREE.... So, kudos to both my dealer and the local one despite my reservations they stood up and did everything on warranty.
So, the share here is if you have a battery tested and see these kinds of numbers, don't be fooled.
Thanks again for the help and advice,
t
Last edited by Robottom; May 29, 2009 at 09:38 AM.
Reason: Forgot the attachment the first time.... oops
OK, here's the deal, it was definitely the battery, bad cell, so won't waste everyone's time with the drivel or drama.
But, the interesting thing is I pulled the battery took it to one dealer and they tested it. Gave me the little slip (attached) and as you can see, says the battery is OK. Now this was the parts guy not one of the mechanics so, maybe didn't have the training. I wouldn't have known either.
Anyway, I had called the dealer where I bought the bike and asked to talk to their service manager. He called me back and makes me read him the numbers off over the phone.
The CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) rating for the battery is 275 A, but the actual as measured by the tester says 419 A, half again higher. This guys "Oh, no, that battery has a bad cell". I had the local dealer pick it up and they did a full system test and replaced the battery for FREE.... So, kudos to both my dealer and the local one despite my reservations they stood up and did everything on warranty.
So, the share here is if you have a battery tested and see these kinds of numbers, don't be fooled.
Thanks again for the help and advice,
t
As you said the guy testing the battery did not know what he was doing, he should of never tested a battery with 11.44VDC, the battery should of been fully charged (or as much charge as it would take) the battery being under 12VDC should of been an indicator to the guy that something was wrong. Congrats on getting it replaced.
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