When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
I don't even now why this thread is still going. How the hell can someone ride properly without downshifting? For everyone who doesn't believe in downshifting, here's a scenerio for you.
You're cruising along at 60 mph and your in 5th gear. Up ahead, about 100 yards away you see a traffic light that just turned red. The cars in front of you brake, slowing down to about 35 mph. Do ride the the clutch while braking for the next 80 yards or so and then put it in first after you stop? I hope not. What do you do if you're in 5th gear, traveling 35 mph and you have to gun it to get out of the way of something? You're screwed!
Anyone who does not downshift needs to go take a class and learn to ride before you become another statistic. SERIOUSLY!!!
For the people who said the MOCO doesnt recommend it.... They probably didnt think anyone to ask.
WARNING Failure to downshift may lead to death or serious injury.
I like to go cruising up to the intersection at something usually above the speed limit, downshift too early so the tire chirps, then do it again, until I hit 1st, while grabbing a bunch of front brake and a bunch of rear.
OK... I don't always do that, but, it's especially fun when you can do it as you come flying up alongside some unsuspecting cager.
Is there a proper way to downshift? I have always downshifted at the proper speed intervals and let out the clutch between each shift and used the engines built in braking to help slow my bikes. But now that I have a new bike I'm wondering if this is bad for the drive belt (stretch) and/or transmission. Any thoughts??
If you are downshifting to engine brake, your drivetrain and transmission will hold up just fine. Don't worry about it and just ride.
.....For the people who said the MOCO doesnt recommend it.... They probably didnt think anyone to ask.
They sure as hell didn't read their entire owners manual.... I'm sure the MoCo published the downshifting scenario in the owners manual, just to prove to all, that it is a bad thing to do...... go back down through the gears, working the clutch and all that extra wear....
As far as the downshifting points published in the owners manual, the speeds are right on.. exactly where I down shift normally.
I always end up in first gear when coming to a complete stop this includes panic stopping anything to slow down the bike its a good training tool when you need to stop and start quickly.
In police training they teach you to use the brakes when coming to a halt and at the last moment to down switch to the appropriate gear if thats a halt, into first, clutch in and straght through the box to first. The idea is that the bike stays stable and is in the correct gear for the speed. In general you get to know by the sound of the engine when to safely down shift, (it grumbles a bit), I was taught this when I first learnt to ride in 84 and its still taught to the police today, Saves wear and tear on the clutch and belt/chain, brake pads are easy to replace, the clutch can be a bitch.
Ride safe.
Coming off sport bikes, I gotta say I am a big fan of engine braking, it would just seem kinda awkward to me to be setting up for a corner with a handfull of clutch, and hoping your gonna match your rpms to hold steady throttle through the corner. when your engine is working, you know where your power is gonna be and dont have to worry about any jerking as you set up. I just choose to do the same time every time I slow my bike, I like to always know my bike is ready to do what I want it to, when i want it to. but hey thats just me, ride how your comfortable, you didnt drop all this money into a bike to do what people tell you! You buy bikes for the freedom it gives you!
P.S, ive been on dirt bikes my whole life and used it, most of my cages have been stick shift and I used it, and I have only had to replace 1 clutch. and it was on a used 2 stroke 125 that had been through 3 motocross seasons...
I downshift or upshift as required when riding. When coming to a stop, I pull in the clutch and brake. Just before the bike momentum completely stops, I click it all the way down to first. Some make of bikes will actually say to do this in the manual. Some don't.
I know there is a camp that downshifts to brake, and a camp that thinks it is bad & wears on mechanicals. It's always a well debated topic. I know unless there is actual testing & analysis performed on engines that are shared to the public on this, the jury will be out for most & personal beliefs will prevail.
With that said - I personally, downshift to slow down. PRIME example: I'm doing 80 on the highway & am exiting to an offramp which has a red light 1/4 mile from where I begin to exit. Am I gonna pull in the clutch & just start breaking? Hell no. I'm gonna go from 6 to 5 to 4 to 3 to 2 to 1 - downshifting to slow the bike down quickly, controlled - and only start applying the break around 3rd/2nd gear...controlling my engine & controlling my brakes provides me with near complete control of my bike - and whatever road condition I'm both ON or am about to encounter. It leaves me poised and ready to speed up or slow down how & when "I" want to.
As for the wear on components - honestly, I've seen people beat the living crap out of their bikes, downshift to high redlines - and upshift to redline as well - rarely change oil, fluids or anything - and their bikes are still running strong with NO problems. I've also seen people baby their brand new bikes from the showroom floor tonly to watch them turn into basket cases - irregardless of following specified maintenance schedules and all that jazz.
I say, downshift to your hearts content using common sense as to when you should shift to which gear & when (ie, don't blow the motor or lock up the wheel). Your bike will be fine & that is how the majority of folks drive, without incident or mechanical failure.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.