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HD Recalibration vs Fuel Management Systems

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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 07:41 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by jkoch09ultra
I had a PCIII on my 06 Ultra. It got wet once and I had to dry it off before it would work right. I have a 09 Ultra now with just the stage 1 download, AC and Rush pipes. Ran so good that I canceled the new Pro Tuner that I had on order. They were not out for the 09's yet when I bought mine. No complaints with 12,000 miles. Runs real strong and good MPG. Also had a problem with poor MPG with the PCIII. Do not like that it can get wet in a storm and leave you stranded.
What you failed to do was pack the connections with dielectric grease. That would have solved all your problems from happening ever again.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2009 | 10:03 AM
  #12  
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Two dealers said it would be $150.00 for the remap. I installed SE AC and slip-ons and had the dealer remap. Very pleased with the results. I will not be spending anymore on performance parts so there isn't any reason for me to buy a PCV or anything like this.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2009 | 10:27 AM
  #13  
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Just made a post about this myself. I had the 2 to 1 pipes and SE air cleaner installed with a dealer flash....$149 if I remember right. It runs fine without any decel popping. Starting to think if it's not broke, don't fix it.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2009 | 11:08 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by B-EZ
How much is an ECM Calibration from a dealer? Is it worth it if you don't plan on making many changes, don't need a lot of adjustability? Or just get the PCV, or other fuel management system and be done with it? What's the effect on the warranty of the aftermarket fuel management systems?
By ECM calibration do you mean a dyno tune or replacement MAPs? Dyno tune should dial you in for your specific setup, but you will have to do it with every change. A replacement MAP is a Map setup someone smart came up with that may be close enough for your bike and should run OK for you bike (a factory $150 down load for example).

I don't think the factory ECU down loads are worth it, but you need to know what you want. You could get lucky with canned maps, however, many have but I did not.

If you want to be sure the bike is dialed in for you specific mods, then a tuner is required. Either you hire someone to dial it in (dyno) purchase a tuner tool where you can measure you bikes performance and then adjust (TTS), or add on a self tuner (Zippers for example).

Many here have good luck with add on fuelers, but you need to be handy installing hardware and as others have said, weather proof them. You are either relying on someone else's tune that should run well on your bike or paying the dyno pro to dial it in. You may have to remove them for warranty work. Many disable the O2 sensors.

So if you are handy with a PC, currently the best system (IMHO) is the TTS. About $500 or, if you have a friend, you can share one for about $300 each. This system allows you to fix drivability problems as well as get you within 2 HP of peak performance by using the street as your dyno. If you want that last 2HP you need to take the bike to a pro. It is a tool that gives you a lot of control, but that means it can be a bit complicated. Included is a wide range of very good pre-canned maps to get you started. This system leaves no hardware on the bike, and you can always revert to the factory tune.

The subjective judgement on your part is how close to optimum performance do you want, how much time do you want to put in, do you like to toy with all the variables, as all the products mentioned in this forum do their job well, from the ~$100 XiED to ~$1000 zipper.

For minor things like a muffler for sound, a retune is not needed as the stock ECU will adjust. Retune here is a wives tail passed down from the pre O2 era, and another way for the dealer to get easy access to your hard earned cash. A free flow air filter is another wives tail, it is a waste of hard earned cash unless you live at 5000-6000 rpm, it actually hurts street performance... and if you are living at 5000-6000 rpm and have a AF you should add something that richens open loop, for engine safety.

Now if you don't like the heat... well that's a different story.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2009 | 03:14 PM
  #15  
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Had a Fuelpak on my Nightster and it popped pretty bad with the recommended settings…… my Street Bob came with a remap from the dealer with the stage 1 and it works just fine. Minimal popping and runs as well as I will ever need it to.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2009 | 12:16 AM
  #16  
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[QUOTE=Mascman;5450597]Did you get the RACE download?

QUOTE]

I think it was just the standard stage 1 download that I got. I'm not sure if it was a RACE or what the exact name of it was.

I'm surprised there's so many people replying that went the same route as me with the dealer download. I thought i would get flamed for suggesting not getting the tuner.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2009 | 02:18 AM
  #17  
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[QUOTE=jb27;5459471]
Originally Posted by Mascman
Did you get the RACE download?

QUOTE]

I think it was just the standard stage 1 download that I got. I'm not sure if it was a RACE or what the exact name of it was.

I'm surprised there's so many people replying that went the same route as me with the dealer download. I thought i would get flamed for suggesting not getting the tuner.
I know that for my '06, there is a Race download #34385-06 which is specifically for the full exhaust...maybe they did away with it for the newer models.

I need to get a re-flash since I installed the 25° injectors...figured that if I could do away with the PCIII, that's one less thing to worry about going bad.
 
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