HD Recalibration vs Fuel Management Systems
I don't think the factory ECU down loads are worth it, but you need to know what you want. You could get lucky with canned maps, however, many have but I did not.
If you want to be sure the bike is dialed in for you specific mods, then a tuner is required. Either you hire someone to dial it in (dyno) purchase a tuner tool where you can measure you bikes performance and then adjust (TTS), or add on a self tuner (Zippers for example).
Many here have good luck with add on fuelers, but you need to be handy installing hardware and as others have said, weather proof them. You are either relying on someone else's tune that should run well on your bike or paying the dyno pro to dial it in. You may have to remove them for warranty work. Many disable the O2 sensors.
So if you are handy with a PC, currently the best system (IMHO) is the TTS. About $500 or, if you have a friend, you can share one for about $300 each. This system allows you to fix drivability problems as well as get you within 2 HP of peak performance by using the street as your dyno. If you want that last 2HP you need to take the bike to a pro. It is a tool that gives you a lot of control, but that means it can be a bit complicated. Included is a wide range of very good pre-canned maps to get you started. This system leaves no hardware on the bike, and you can always revert to the factory tune.
The subjective judgement on your part is how close to optimum performance do you want, how much time do you want to put in, do you like to toy with all the variables, as all the products mentioned in this forum do their job well, from the ~$100 XiED to ~$1000 zipper.
For minor things like a muffler for sound, a retune is not needed as the stock ECU will adjust. Retune here is a wives tail passed down from the pre O2 era, and another way for the dealer to get easy access to your hard earned cash. A free flow air filter is another wives tail, it is a waste of hard earned cash unless you live at 5000-6000 rpm, it actually hurts street performance... and if you are living at 5000-6000 rpm and have a AF you should add something that richens open loop, for engine safety.
Now if you don't like the heat... well that's a different story.
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I think it was just the standard stage 1 download that I got. I'm not sure if it was a RACE or what the exact name of it was.
I'm surprised there's so many people replying that went the same route as me with the dealer download. I thought i would get flamed for suggesting not getting the tuner.
QUOTE]
I think it was just the standard stage 1 download that I got. I'm not sure if it was a RACE or what the exact name of it was.
I'm surprised there's so many people replying that went the same route as me with the dealer download. I thought i would get flamed for suggesting not getting the tuner.
I need to get a re-flash since I installed the 25° injectors...figured that if I could do away with the PCIII, that's one less thing to worry about going bad.





