ive searched the subject and didnt find anything more specific to my year. ive discovered that something isnt right with my charging system. i put in a new battery last week and saturday got stranded on a poker run. i charged battery up thinking that maybe it was low on charge. to try to put my mind at ease i took it to where i bought battery(they rebuild alternators,starters and such) to have it tested today. he hooked it up i started bike and he instantly told me its not charging. can anyone walk me through any testing to see what part of the chain the problem is in. i dont have a dyna manual, i do still have my sporster manual. i did do a ground test on the voltage regulator(base to frame). it appears to be grounded ok. i have this guy feeling its the stator/rotor. i borrowed a multi meter to do the test with. is there anything i can do to test the stator to see if its putting out? and if so, how? i know i do need a manual but, since getting this bike i havent gotten past checking things yet to get one. after this problem gets taken care of i need to get to a top end. money is an object so i just cant take it to a stealer. if i cant figure this out its going to an indy for testing and maybe fixing. if its the stator that may be more than i can do since i dont have the specialized tools needed to remove primary drive and everything else. but, boy im learning here and sometimes learning hurts in more than one way.

 

ok after reading some here and other places i know i made one mistake. jumping the bike with a running car. that is suppose to damage the voltage regulator. but is it possible something was bad before that? so now i really feel stupid,worried and confused. why did the new batter not start the bike to begin with? this is my week for problems.

 

Plenty of these types threads in the "evo section" including some posts of mine.

 

The stator test has a lot of steps in it, go to the DIY section and look up stator test there. It's my understanding you can use a car's battery to jump your bike providing the car is not running. A cars energized charging system can crank out well over 80 amps, the bike cranks out 32 on some of the older bikes. Take the primary chain inspection cover off the primary, if it smells burn't inside the primary that's the first concern.

 

well i the tests i did to try to isolate the charging system problem didnt show much. so, i took it a local shop. he did same tests i did along with using an ac current meter and found that it wasnt putting out consistant voltage and determined the stator was the problem. i had him do the job since i dont have the neccessary tools to pull the clutch hub and compensator sprocket. he had the parts on hand and the bill was less than $180 and i had my bike back same day(today). i didnt even expect to get it till next week. my props to steve swinson of swinsons automotive repair in noble, il. if anyone is from the area, he seems to know his s**t. and now my stator plug shouldnt leak anymore either.

 

Great! A trustworthy indy did mine also. Mine was right at $200 including gaskets and primary oil.

A good indy is a godsend on these machines.

 

thats no lie. the prices from the stealer for the stator was $115 alone. his was $65.

 

1. Battery Test:The battery needs to be a fully charged battery that has been load tested to ensure proper readings. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Most places like Auto Zone, Advance Auto, and Pep Boys will charge and test motorcycle batteries for free. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.

2. Charging System Voltage Test: Start motorcycle, Measure DC Volts across the battery terminals (you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts).

3. Check Connections/Wires: Inspect the regulator/stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection/corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there’s a failed component.

4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolate the stator & Rotor, If AC Output test Fails and Resistance Check, and Stator IB Test Pass then Rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).

AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator
Start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts.
Probe both stator wires with your meter leads.
The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification)
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multi meter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual for specification)
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator IB test or Ground Check:
Switch your multi meter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on multi meter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity to ground your stator is shorted to ground.

5. Regulator Test: Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.

Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead– Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads– Wires coming from the Stator to regulator.
Ground– Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.

Regulator Ground Test: Insure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tight to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).

Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test: This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multi meter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multi meter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multi meter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multi meter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire.
The reading should be Infinite.

With your meter on the same setting, place your multi meter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.

Next, switch your multi meter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires.
The reading should be Infinite.

Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ∞
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ∞
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ∞
AC output 2 Ground ∞