Did the bike handle better before you put on the lowering blocks? If it did and the only change you made were the lowering blocks then it is most likely the geometry change plus additional weight distribution rearward and the fact you have the crappiest front tire made on the front (at least from the pic it appears you have the stock D402). Get a set of progressive lowering springs and lower it the 1" you lowered the rear. Don't get the drop in ones get the ones where you add the small spring under the damper tube so you can properly set the pre-load and sag. If you go with the 1" you can still lower it a bit more by raising the tubes in the trees and make the steering a little more quicker. A plus is also you're closer to the ground and more flat footed.
I don't think the tires are you main issue but the geometry and weight transfer. That said, get yourself a good set of tires like the Pirelli Night Dragons. I think one of the biggest improvements in handling I made was replacing the stock front tire with one that actually sticks and when you improve the handling and your confidence and want to push it, you will be well served.
One other thing is, you may want to lighten the pre-load on the rear springs after you lower it as the shocks do not work quite as well at a steeper angle. Don't ride any faster than what you are comfortable with!!!
Just my 2 cents
CB

 

Hi, I road raced for 5 years in the Washington Motorcycle Road Racing Association, (wmrra # 270) expert level. The reason I put that in was to let you know I know how to set up a bike for going very fast around corners. We would put Ohlins or Penske shocks on the various super stock bikes we raced because they have adjustable ride height. The higher you raise the rear or lower the front the quicker the the bike will tip into the corner, there is a fine balance if you go up to far in the back the the bike will turn in faster but will be more unstable, which at 170 mph on a ZX 10r is really scary. That's why literally every Super Sport or Super bike have steering stabilizers.
Anyway if you want your bike to handle like it did from the factory you have to maintain the same geometry. So if you lowered it in the back 1 inch you need to lower the front the same amount. If you want it to be a little quicker and easier into the corner you can put flat track or t-bars on it.

Also like what already mentioned get your upper body as far over the front wheel as you can. As you set up for the corner point or lead with your shoulder, also never stare at the entrance or apex of the turn look at the exit of the turn or as far arround the corner as you can, the bike will follow where your looking.
this next bit is a little more advanced. we learned this in novice race school and I tried to get better every time I raced. try to do all of your braking for corners with the bike straight up, then push on the bar in the direction you want to go, once you start into the corner try to stay off the brakes, every time you trail brake while leaned over it makes the bike want to stand up, keep a very steady mid throttle thru the apex (Midpoint) if you chop the throttle the bike will want to fall or low side. After the apex start smoothly adding power, try to get the bike straight as fast as you can so you can give it full throttle. Rinse and repeat.
You wouldn't believe how fast you can hustle a Dyna thru the corners if you practice

 

A couple of questions.

Have you ridden a friends Dyna to see if it has the same feel to you?

Has someone ridden your Dyna and given you feedback?

Those will tell you if it is something with the bike, or just your comfort level. Some one that is comfortable with twisties can take it a few miles through some tight turns and will know at once is it is normal or not.

I'm comfortable leaning and scraping my pipes riding 2-up with my wife. But I ride with a couple of people that aren't comfortable doing it with just them riding 1-up. The difference is I've ridden 40 years and they haven't.

Do some comparison or have someone do it for you and you will quickly learn what is happening.

 

I was a national roadracer for many years, I rode Superbike class.
Like the poster above, I say so only to illustrate that even though it was years ago, I've ridden a bike or two in anger.
And like he says, a Dyna can be ridden much faster than you would think if you just looked at one. There's no power or cornering clearance, but you can make good time on twisty roads despite those limitations, you just have to modify your riding style to compensate. Making the most of the spread of torque and (at least on a Fat Bob) concentrating on late braking is where you can make up time on lesser, unsuspecting riders.

 

So how is the bike handling? Just wondering if you did anything to correct it?
CB

 

Perch -- try the following technique. It's not my idea. It was described to me by another rider and I was absolutely amazed how much more balanced and in control I felt on my bike.

Before you get in to the curve do these two things:

1) Lean forward. You don't have to lay down on the tank, but lean forward a bit.

2) Raise the elbow that's on the outside of the curve (i.e., if you're curving to the right, raise your left elbow).

Every single person I've suggested this to since learning it myself has remarked how much better they feel in twisties.

I've only been riding since May 2007. I don't come from a background of having ridden since I was 5 yrs old like a lot of the guys on here. So this may be something painfully obvious to most people that have been riding forever. But when I first did this it substantially changed how the bike feels in the twisties, and my confidence level grew as a result.

Good luck.

PS -- I didn't read every post in the thread so if this was already suggested... oops.

 

YES! Hubby lowered the front end - as much as he could, anyway - and I have done 2 adjustments to the handlebars, moving them slightly more towards me. I already feel a big difference, and I am going to try another slight handlebar adjustment today. See, a while back someone suggested I move them more forward (upright) to help with shoulder/back pain I was having.

I think these latest adjustments are really going to help, along with continued practice. Not sure what will help my anxiety that I KNOW I have about wondering what's around the blind corners, but for comfort and handling, I think I am almost where I need to be. I still might consider different bars, but will certainly ride out this season the way it is to give the new "settings" a chance.

Thanks for all the input!

 

Looks like you're making progress. Good for you. Just making a couple of mechanical adjustments on the bike has improved your confidence and things will get better mentally and physically. Goes hand in hand.

 

OH OH OH! An update. I did a FINAL adjustment of my handlebars. Brought them just a little bit lower/closer to me. Wow, what a difference. DOWNSIDE is that the ache in my right arm is back (which is the reason I moved the bars forward/away from me in the first place), but the UPSIDE is, no longer do I feel I have to "muscle" my bike around. MUCH better handling for me, and confidence is coming back. STILL may try some buckhorns next spring as I like the angle of the wrist better on them ( I had them on another bike once). But maybe not. I may just learn to live with the ache, and who knows, maybe it will go away once my arm muscles get used to the position. Whatever, I am MUCH happier. Took almost a year but the bike is finally where I want/need it.

 

FWIW when I switched from my mini apes to the drag bars, I had an ache in my mid back for the first couple of rides. It no longer occurs so it is possible that the ache will go away once your shoulder is used to the position.